Rock Master

Rock Master is an international climbing competition held every year in Arco.

The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday.

History

The history of Rock Master is linked to that of the first international races in the history of climbing. In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri.

Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing competitions were also held.

Since 2006, during the event a jury assigns Arco Rock Legends, two awards are like the Oscars of climbing:

  • Salewa Rock Award with the athlete had the best performance of single pitch sport climbs and boulder
  • La Sportiva Competition Award for the best athlete who has competed in the previous competition season.

The competition is usually held the first weekend of September, with a few exceptions:

  • in 2010 has been brought forward to July as a pre-event of the World Championship of climbing that would take place in 2011. Instead of the usual two rounds (worked and view) a competition was held to only classical view in three rounds: qualifiers, semi-finals and finals.
  • in 2011 instead of the Rock Master was held in July at the Arco Climbing World Championship in 2011 . The title of the Rock Master was, however, given the evidence of the Duel, a competition demonstration that took place at the end of the World Championship and attended the first sixteen male and female athletes of the league lead.[1]

In 2012 the speed test was valid also as the fourth leg of the World Cup speed climbing 2012.[2]

Winners

Lead

YearMaleFemale
1987Germany Stefan GlowaczUnited States Lynn Hill
1988Germany Stefan Glowacz
France Patrick Edlinger
United States Lynn Hill
1989France Didier RaboutouUnited States Lynn Hill
1990France François LegrandUnited States Lynn Hill
1991Japan Yuji HirayamaFrance Isabelle Patissier
1992Germany Stefan GlowaczUnited States Lynn Hill
1993Switzerland Elie ChevieuxSwitzerland Susi Good
1994France François LegrandUnited States Robyn Erbesfield
1995France François LombardFrance Laurence Guyon
1996France François LombardUnited States Katie Brown
1997France François LegrandUnited States Katie Brown
1998France François LegrandFrance Liv Sansoz
1999Russia Eugeny OvtchinnikovBelgium Muriel Sarkany
2000Russia Eugeny OvtchinnikovBelgium Muriel Sarkany
2001Germany Christian Bindhammer
Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek
Japan Yuji Hirayama
Belgium Muriel Sarkany
Slovenia Martina Cufar
2002France Alexandre ChabotFrance Sandrine Levet
2003France Alexandre ChabotAustria Angela Eiter
2004France Alexandre ChabotAustria Angela Eiter
2005Spain Ramón Julián PuigblanqueAustria Angela Eiter
2006Spain Ramón Julián PuigblanqueFrance Sandrine Levet
2007Spain Ramón Julián PuigblanqueAustria Angela Eiter
2008Spain Patxi UsobiagaAustria Johanna Ernst
2009Spain Ramón Julián PuigblanqueAustria Angela Eiter
2010Spain Ramón Julián PuigblanqueSouth Korea Jain Kim
2011--
2012Spain Ramón Julián PuigblanqueAustria Angela Eiter
2013Spain Ramón Julián PuigblanqueSlovenia Mina Markovič

Bouldering

YearMaleFemale
1999Spain Daniel AndradaRussia Elena Choumilova
2000Poland Tomasz OleksyRussia Natalia Novikova
2001Russia Salavat RakhmetovFrance Corinne Théroux
2002Italy Mauro CalibaniRussia Ol'ga Jakovleva
2003Italy Mauro CalibaniRussia Olga Bibik
2004Switzerland Matthias MüllerFrance Mélanie Son
2005Austria Kilian FischhuberFrance Mélanie Son
2006Finland Nalle HukkataivalAustria Anna Stöhr
2007United Kingdom Gareth ParryAustria Anna Stöhr
2008Austria Kilian FischhuberAustria Katharina Saurwein
2009Austria Kilian FischhuberFrance Alizée Dufraisse
2010Switzerland Cédric LachatAustria Anna Stöhr
2011--
2012Russia Dmitrij ŠarafutdinovUnited States Alex Puccio
2013Russia Rustam GelmanovUnited States Alex Puccio

Speed

YearMaleFemale
1999Ukraine Vladimir Zakharov
2000Russia Alexei Gadeev
2001Russia Iakov Soubotine
2002Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2003Russia Alexei Gadeev
2004Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2005Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2006Russia Sergey Sinitsyn
2007Russia Evgenij Vajcechovskij
2008Venezuela Manuel EscobarUkraineOlena Ryepko
2009Czech Republic Libor HrozaPoland Edyta Ropek
2010Czech Republic Libor HrozaChina Cuilian He
2011--
2012Italy Leonardo GonteroRussia Alina Gaydamakina
2013Czech Republic Libor HrozaRussia Alina Gaydamakina
2014Czech Republic Libor HrozaFrance Anouck Jaubert

Duel

YearMaleFemale
2011Czech Republic Adam OndraRussia Yana Chereshneva
2012Austria Jakob SchubertRussia Dinara Fakhritdinova
2013Canada Sean McCollRussia Dinara Fakhritdinova
2014Canada Sean McCollRussia Dinara Fakhritdinova
2015Czech Republic Adam OndraFrance Hélène Janicot

Arco Rock Legends

YearSalewa Rock AwardLa Sportiva Competition Award
2006Spain Josune BereziartuAustria Angela Eiter
2007Spain Patxi UsobiagaAustria David Lama
2008Czech Republic Adam OndraSlovenia Maja Vidmar
2009United States Chris SharmaAustria Kilian Fischhuber
2010Czech Republic Adam OndraJapan Akiyo Noguchi
2011Czech Republic Adam OndraSpain Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2012United States Sasha DiGiulianAustria Anna Stöhr
2013Czech Republic Adam OndraSlovenia Mina Markovič
2014Belgium Muriel SarkanySpain Urko Carmona Barandiaran
2015Germany Alexander MegosCzech Republic Adam Ondra
2016Spain Daniel AndradaSlovenia Mina Markovic
2017United States Margo HayesSlovenia Janja Garnbret

References

  1. Vinicio Stefanello. "Rock Master Gran Galà – Duel". arco2011.it. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
  2. "Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina". planetmountain.com. 1 September 2012. Retrieved 1 April 2013.

Bibliography

  • Malfer, Giulio; Stefanello, Vinicio (2005). Rock Master. Nicolodi. ISBN 978-8884471949.
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