Sasha DiGiulian

Sasha DiGiulian
Personal information
Nationality American
Born (1992-10-23) October 23, 1992
Education Columbia University
Height 5 ft 2 in (157 cm)[1]
Website sasha-digiulian.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • First American woman to climb 5.14d (9a) * Female Overall World Champion
Updated on March 27, 2013.

Sasha DiGiulian (born October 23, 1992) is a professional rock climber who in 2012 became the first American woman to climb grade 9a (5.14d). She has climbed over 30 First Female Ascents as well as 8 significant First Ascents, including "Rolihlahla" in South Africa, a Big Wall in Brazil in 2016 and The Misty Wall in Yosemite in 2017. In 2011 she 5.14c (8c+), onsighted two of 5.14a (8b+) and four of 5.13d (8b). In 2015, she became the first woman to free climb Magic Mushroom (7c+), one of the most difficult routes on the north face of the Eiger.[2] In 2017 she did the first female ascent of Big Wall in Madagascar, Mora Mora (5.14b/8c), climbing it with Edu Marin in what was also the second free ascent of Mora Mora.[3][4]

Biography

DiGiulian started her climbing career at the age of 6 and began competing at age 7. At age 11 she climbed her first 5.13b (8a). She attended the Potomac School, a K-12 near Washington, D.C. In March 2011, just before graduating from high school, she redpointed Southern Smoke (5.14c) and Lucifer (5.14c) in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky.

After leaving high school, DiGiulian took a gap year to travel and rock climb, concentrating on international competition and outdoor climbing. She won the Gold Medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy. She returned to the Red River Gorge in October 2011 where she redpointed Pure Imagination, a route considered 5.14d at the time, otherwise known as 9a.[5] On April 25, 2012 she became the first North American female, and third woman of all time (after Spain’s Josune Bereziartu and Charlotte Durif of France), to climb 9a (5.14d) by ascending Era Vella in Margalef. DiGiulian is a three-time National Champion in Female Open and she has won multiple Female Open panAmerican Championships. From 2004 until the end of her Junior career, 2010, she was the undefeated Panamerican Champion. In 2010 and 2012 DiGiulian won the Adult Continental Championships. In 2011 she 5.14c (8c+), onsighted two of 5.14a (8b+) and four of 5.13d (8b). In 2012 DiGiulian earned three gold medals at the Panamerican Championships for Female Sport Climbing, Bouldering, and Overall Champion. In 2015, she became the first woman to free climb Magic Mushroom (7c+), one of the most difficult routes on the north face of the Eiger.[2] She has climbed over 30 First Female Ascents as well as 8 significant First Ascents, including a Big Wall in Brazil in 2016 and The Misty Wall in Yosemite in 2017. In 2017 she did the first female free ascent of Mora Mora, climbing it with Edu Marin in what was also the second free ascent of Mora Mora.[3][4]

DiGiulian graduated Columbia University[6] in 2016.[7][8] She studied non-fiction creative writing and business, was a member of Kappa Alpha Theta[9] and an athlete representative on the board of the International Federation of Sport Climbing.[10] DiGiulian serves as a Board Member of the Women's Sports Foundation and as an Athlete Ambassador for Right to Play, Up2Us Sports, and Outdoor Foundation, and was the recipient of multiple prestigious awards, including GLAMOUR Magazine's Top College Women of the Year, 2016, the Cutting Edge Athlete Award for 2014 performance, presented by the American Alpine Club, The Golden Piton Award, and the Arco Rock Legend Award for Outstanding Achievements in the Outdoors.[11]

As of January 2017, DiGiulian appears to be living in Boulder, Colorado amidst travel.[12] In March 2017 a rock climber emoji was approved[13] and the sample image published by Emojipedia was based on DiGiulian's likeness.[14]


References

  1. "About @ Sasha DiGiulian". Retrieved March 27, 2013.
  2. 1 2 "adidas Outdoor Athletes Sasha DiGiulian And Carlo Traversi Free Climb Magic Mushroom... - LOS ANGELES, Aug. 29, 2015 /PRNewswire/". Prnewswire.com. Retrieved 2015-08-30.
  3. 1 2 "DiGiulian and Marin Send Big Wall Madagascar 5.14 - Gripped Magazine". Gripped.com. 2017. Retrieved 2017-08-10.
  4. 1 2 "Sasha DiGiulian: Free ascent of Mora Mora ++video". Redbull.com. Retrieved 2017-08-10.
  5. "Two 5.14+ Onsights for Ondra". dpmclimbing.com. November 1, 2012. Archived from the original on November 4, 2012. Retrieved May 24, 2013.
  6. Erin Larson (December 3, 2013). "Sasha DiGiulian: Rock Climber Extraordinaire".
  7. DiGiulian, Sasha. Instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/BFhrPN7mLFg/?taken-by=sashadigiulian&hl=en. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  8. Boland, Whitney. Redbull http://www.redbull.com/us/en/adventure/stories/1331795155803/pro-climber-sasha-digiulian-college-graduation. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  9. "Notable Thetas - Heritage - Kappa Alpha Theta". Heritage.kappaalphatheta.org. 2015-01-07. Retrieved 2015-08-30.
  10. "Athletes Commission". ifsc-climbing.org. February 25, 2013. Retrieved May 24, 2013.
  11. DiGiulian, Sasha. personal website http://www.sasha-digiulian.com/about/. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  12. "VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian Sends Keeper of the Flame (5.13a), Yosemite Valley". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2017-08-22.
  13. "Final 2017 Emoji List". Emojipedia. 2017-03-27. Retrieved 2017-08-22.
  14. Scheinbaum, Chase. "Sasha DiGiulian Designed the World's First Rock Climbing Emoji". The Inertia. Retrieved 2017-08-22.
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