Angela Eiter

Angela Eiter
Personal information
Nationality Austrian
Born (1986-01-27) January 27, 1986
Arzl im Pitztal, Austria
Height 154 cm (5 ft 1 in)
Weight 46 kg (101 lb)
Website angelaeiter.com
Climbing career
Type of climber Sport climbing
Highest grade
Known for Winning 3 World Cups in a row and 4 World Championships.
Being the first female to climb a 9b route.
Medal record
World Cup
Winner2004Lead
Winner2005Lead
Winner2006Lead
Winner2006Combined
World Championships
2005 MunichLead
2007 AvilésLead
2011 ArcoLead
2012 ParisLead
European Championships
2010 Imst/InnsbruckLead
World Games
2005 DuisburgLead
Updated on 8 May 2013.

Angela Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional climber. She is a champion in lead climbing competitions: she won three Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, from 2004 to 2006 and four World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium.[1]

In 2017 she became the first woman in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route (La Planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain).[2][3]

Biography

She started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport. Her parents accompanied her to the climbing gym in Imst. At fifteen, she climbed her first indoor 8a (5.13b). In 2002, having reached the age of sixteen, she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing. In 2003, she won her first Cup race at Aprica. Since then she has won three World Cups in a row: in 2004,[4] in 2005, winning eight out of nine events[5] and in 2006, winning seven out of ten events.[6]

She also won four world championships in the lead climbing specialty: the 2005 edition in Munich,[7] the 2007 edition in Avilés,[8] the 2011 edition in Arco,[9] and the 2012 edition in Paris.[10]

For this outstanding performance was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006.[11]

In September 2008, during the third round of the World Cup in Bern, she had a serious accident damaging her left shoulder, for which she underwent arthroscopic surgery.[12] She had to prematurely end the season and deal with nine months' rehabilitation. She started to compete the following July at the Climbing World Championship 2009 in Qinghai.

On September 6, 2014, Eiter climbed the 9a (5.14d) route Hades at Nassereith, Austria. She is the sixth woman to climb this grade or higher.[13][14]

On October 22, 2017 she climbed La Planta de Shiva (Villanueva del Rosario, Spain), widely considered to be a 9b (5.15b) route, becoming the world's first female to climb that grade.[2][3]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[15]

Discipline 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012
Lead 18 3 1 1 1 2 13 4 3 4 35
Bouldering - - - - 15 33 - - - - -
Combined - - - - 1 2 - - - - -

Climbing World Championships[1]

Discipline 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012
Lead 7 1 1 5 1 1
Bouldering - - 8 - - -

Climbing European Championships[1]

Discipline 2004 2006 2010
Lead 6 5 1

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[1]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
20020
2003235
2004415
2005819
20067119
2007235
200811
200922
201022
20112114
Total2513442

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9b (5.15b):

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Hercules - Götterwandl (AUT) - October 2014 - First ascent
  • Ingravids Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - November 2010[18]
  • Claudio Café - Terra Promessa (ITA) - 2007[19]

8c (5.14b):

Onsighted routes

8b (5.13d):

Boulder problems

8B (V13):

See also

Notable first free ascents

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Eiter's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  2. 1 2 3 Planet Mountain (ed.). "Interview with Angela Eiter, the first woman to climb 9b". Retrieved 24 October 2017.
  3. 1 2 3 Planet Mountain (ed.). "Angela Eiter climbs historic first female 9b". Retrieved 23 October 2017.
  4. ↑ "Mrazek and Eiter win the World Cup Difficulty 2004". planetmountain.com. 23 November 2004. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  5. ↑ Vinicio Stefanello (21 November 2005). "Flavio Crespi and Angela Eiter win World Cup 2005". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  6. ↑ "World Cup Lead 2006 won by Patxi Usobiaga and Angela Eiter in Kranj". planetmountain.com. 24 November 2006. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  7. ↑ Vinicio Stefanello (4 July 2005). "Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter World Champions". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  8. ↑ "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  9. ↑ "Angela Eiter World Champion Lead in Arco". planetmountain.com. 23 July 2011. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  10. ↑ Franz Schiassi (17 September 2012). "World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  11. ↑ "Josune Bereziartu and Angela Eiter top the Arco Rock Legends 2006". rockmaster.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  12. ↑ "Climbing break for Angy Eiter after shoulder surgery". angelaeiter.com. 26 September 2008. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  13. 1 2 "Angela Eiter Climbs Hades (5.14d)". DPM Magazine. 14 October 2014. Retrieved 16 October 2014.
  14. 1 2 "Angela Eiter 9a Hades in Austria".
  15. ↑ IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  16. ↑ "Angela Eiter and Anak Verhoeven 9a at Margalef in Spain".
  17. ↑ "Angela Eiter again 9a with Big Hammer".
  18. ↑ ukclimbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2010). "Angy Eiter climbs Ingravids Extension, 8c+".
  19. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (May 31, 2007). "Arrampicata: Angela Eiter sale Claudio Caffè 8c+".
  20. ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (October 5, 2009). "Angela Eiter in gran forma".
  21. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (September 21, 2006). "Angela Eiter vola a-vista verso Skyline 8b".
  22. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (August 26, 2014). "Angela Eiter boulders 8b at Rocklands in South Africa".
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