Margo Hayes
Personal information | |
---|---|
Nationality | United States |
Born |
February 1998 (age 20)[1] Boulder, Colorado, U.S. |
Occupation | Professional rock climber |
Height | 160 cm (5 ft 3 in) |
Website | MargoHayes.com |
Climbing career | |
Type of climber | Sport climbing |
Highest grade | |
Known for | Being the first female to climb a 9a+ route |
Updated on October 31, 2017. |
Margo Hayes (born February 11 1998)[1] is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. She is known for being the first woman to climb a route graded 9a+ (5.15a) (La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain). In 2016, she won both the Bouldering and Lead Climbing events at the World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China)
Biography
Originally a gymnast, Hayes began climbing at age 10[2] and joined Team ABC, a renowned youth climbing program in Boulder, shortly after.
On February 26, 2017, Hayes became the first woman to climb a route graded 9a+ (5.15a) (La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain).[3] As of November 2017, the most difficult route ever climbed by a female is 9b (5.15b) (La Planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain, first female ascent by Angela Eiter). While two other female climbers—Ashima Shiraishi and Josune Bereziartu—had recorded 5.14d/5.15a ascents, Hayes's completion of La Rambla remains the first female ascent of a consensus 5.15a.[3]
As part of the US National Team, Hayes has competed in all three disciplines (lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering) of the International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions. In 2015, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy Hayes won silver both in bouldering and lead, behind Janja Garnbret.[4]
In 2016, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China), she competed in the Juniors category, winning both the bouldering and lead events, placing 15th in speed, and placing first in the overall standings.[5] In the same year, Hayes won a Golden Piton award from Climbing Magazine for successfully climbing 14 routes graded 5.14.[6]
Rankings
- 2016 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Gold
- 2015 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver
Notable ascents
- September 24, 2017 - First female ascent of Biographie - 9a+ (5.15a)[7]
- February 26, 2017 - First female ascent of a confirmed 9a+ (5.15a) (La Rambla, Siurana, ESP)[8][9]. In 2015, Ashima Shiraishi climbed two routes (Open Your Mind Direct R1 and Ciudad de Dios, in Santa Linya, ESP) which were initially thought to be harder than 9a, possibly 9a+, but these routes were later graded 9a by some repeaters, and no consensus has been reached yet about their grade.[10][9].
- June 2016, The Crew - Rifle Mountain Park (Colorado, (USA)[11]
- August 2016, Bad Girls Club - Wicked Cave (Rifle Mountain Park. (USA). First female ascent[12].
See also
References
- 1 2 Gates, Zoe (May 17, 2017). "By the Numbers: Margo Hayes and the Road to 5.15". Climbing.
On her 18th birthday in February 2016
- ↑ "Bio". MARGO HAYES. Retrieved 2017-06-01.
- 1 2 Haas, Liz (February 27, 2017). "Margo Hayes Climbs La Rambla, Becomes First Woman to Send 5.15a". Climbing.
- ↑ "Ashima Shiraishi wins two golds at world climbing championships". San Jose Mercury News. September 5, 2015.
- ↑ "World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi". Planet Mountain. November 14, 2016.
- ↑ "2016 Golden Pitons: Sport Climbing". Climbing Magazine | Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, Bouldering, Ice Climbing. Retrieved 2017-05-31.
- ↑ Nicolas Mattuzzi (September 25, 2017). "Incroyable! Margo Hayes enchaîne «Biographie» 9a+ et rentre de nouveau dans l'Histoire!". planetgrimpe.com. .
- ↑ Margo Hayes Sends La Rambla (5.15a)! on rockandice.com
- 1 2 Historique! Margo Hayes, 18 ans, enchaîne « La Rambla », 9a+! on planetgrimpe.com
- ↑ Première voie dans le 9e pour Ashima Shiraishi à Santa Linya Archived 2015-03-20 at the Wayback Machine. on Kairn.com
- ↑ Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle on rockandice.com
- ↑ Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the “Boys Club” of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) on rockandice.com