Akiyo Noguchi
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| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japan | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born |
May 30, 1989 Japan | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional sport climbing | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 165 cm (5 ft 5 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 49 kg (108 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Website | http://akiyonoguchi.com | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Bouldering, Lead climbing | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
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| Known for | Winning the bouldering World Cup 4 times | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on September 21, 2018. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Akiyo Noguchi (野口 啓代 Noguchi Akiyo, born May 30, 1989) is a Japanese professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She is known for winning the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Bouldering four times.
Biography
Noguchi started climbing when she was 12 years old.
In 2007, she started competing in the Bouldering World Cup, reaching the podium three times. In 2009, she won the World Cup in bouldering, over the previous year's champion Anna Stöhr.[1] Noguchi repeated as champion in 2010, 2014 and 2015.[2] In the 2011, 2012 and 2013 bouldering events at the World Cup she placed second.[2] She has also won the combined climbling title at the World Cup three times.[2]
Noguchi was also awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2010, "for her victories and the positive spirit she exudes during competitions".[3]
Rankings
Climbing World Cup[2]
| 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 42 | 21 | 24 | 5 | 11 | 8 | 20 | 13 | 7 | 10 | 30 | 17 | 15 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 | 3 |
| Combined | - | - | 5 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 6 |
Climbing World Championships[4]
| 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 3 | 11 | 8 | - | - | 9 | - | 8 |
| Bouldering | 21 | 2 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 3 | 3 | 2 |
| Speed | - | - | 31 | - | - | - | - | 47 |
| Combined | - | - | 31 | - | - | - | - | 4 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead[4]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2009 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2010 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2011 | 0 | |||
| 2012 | 0 | |||
| 2013 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2015 | 0 | |||
| 2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2017 | 0 | |||
| Total | 0 | 3 | 4 | 7 |
Bouldering[4]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2007 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| 2009 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 |
| 2010 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| 2011 | 4 | 1 | 5 | |
| 2012 | 3 | 3 | ||
| 2013 | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
| 2014 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 7 |
| 2015 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
| 2016 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| 2017 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2018 | 3 | 3 | 6 | |
| Total | 21 | 16 | 16 | 53 |
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
8b (5.13d):
- Liquid Finger - Joyama (JPN) - December 12, 2008
8c+ (5.14c):
- Mind Control - Oliana (SPN) - December 10, 2013
Boulder problems
8A+ (V12)
8A (V11)
References
- ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (June 16, 2009). "Coppa del Mondo Boulder 2009: Fischhuber e Noghuchi al top, Moroni è terzo". Retrieved April 29, 2012.
- 1 2 3 4 IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- ↑ Vinicio Stefanello (July 18, 2010). arco2011.it, ed. "Arco Rock Legend 2010 a Manolo, Ondra e Noguchi". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- 1 2 3 IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Noguchi's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- ↑ "Akiyo Noguchi Crimps To Glory On 'Aguni' V12 | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 383".
- ↑ "Rock Trip 2016 in Bishop".
- ↑ youtube (ed.). "Monsterman SD".
- ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (February 9, 2010). "Two female 8A – Noguchi and Matthes". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- ↑ "Rock Trip 2016 in Bishop".