2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships

The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 6 to 16 September 2018.[1] The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, paraclimbing, and combined events.

2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Women's Lead Final route
VenueOlympiaworld Innsbruck, Kletterzentrum Innsbruck, Marktplatz
Location Innsbruck, Austria
Date6 – 16 September 2018
Competitors834 from 58 nations
Websitehttps://www.innsbruck2018.com/

Medal winners overview
Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's Lead  Jakob Schubert (AUT)  Adam Ondra (CZE)  Alex Megos (GER)
Men's Speed  Reza Alipour (IRI)  Bassa Mawem (FRA)  Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
Men's Bouldering  Kai Harada (JPN)  Jongwon Chon (KOR)  Gregor Vezonik (SLO)
Men's Combined  Jakob Schubert (AUT)  Adam Ondra (CZE)  Jan Hojer (GER)
Women's Lead  Jessica Pilz (AUT)  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Kim Ja-in (KOR)
Women's Speed  Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL)  Anna Brozek (POL)  Mariia Krasavina (RUS)
Women's Bouldering  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)  Staša Gejo (SRB)
Women's Combined  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Sol Sa (KOR)  Jessica Pilz (AUT)

Lead
Women's Lead winners
Men's Lead winners

The lead competition was the first event held at the 2018 World Championships. The women's qualification took place on the opening day, 6 September, at the Kletterzentrum, and the men's was held the following day at the same location. Women's semi-final and final were held on 8 September and the respective men's competitions the next day both at the Olympiaworld.

Women

101 athletes attended the women's lead competition. In the final penultimate climber Jessica Pilz was the first to top the route. Janja Garnbret came out as the last climber and topped the route as well. As both climbers had the same first tiebreaker by virtue of having topped the semi-final route the ranking was decided by their time on the final route, which Pilz had climbed faster and thus was awarded the Gold Medal. Bronze went to Kim Ja-in.

Rank Name Score
1 Jessica Pilz Top
2 Janja Garnbret Top
3 Kim Ja-in 34+
4 Mei Kotake 33+
5 Ashima Shiraishi 32
6 Anak Verhoeven 31+
7 Mia Krampl 31+
8 Akiyo Noguchi 31+
9 Hannah Schubert 31+
10 Laura Rogora 24+

Men

124 athletes attended the men's lead competition. Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert achieved the same score (36+) on the final route. Innsbruck-born Schubert won the gold medal due to his better tie-breaker, having achieved the better score in the semi-final. The bronze medal went to Alex Megos (33.5)

Rank Name Score
1 Jakob Schubert 36+
2 Adam Ondra 36+
3 Alex Megos 33.5
4 Meichi Narasaki 31+
5 Domen Škofic 29+
6 Jakub Konecny 29+
6 Tomoaki Takata 29+
8 Sascha Lehmann 23
9 Marcello Bombardi 20+
10 Kai Harada 16+

Speed
Speed's route
Women's Speed winners
Men's Speed winners

The speed competitions took place in the Olympiaworld with the qualification rounds and the finals both being held on 13 September.

Women

94 athletes competed in the women's speed climbing event. Aleksandra Rudzinska (7.56s) won the final of the speed competition over her Polish countrywoman Anna Brozek (7.91s). Mariia Krasavina won the bronze medal in the small final against Aleksandra Kalucka, who false started.[2]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Finals
            
 Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) 8.162
 CuiLian He (CHN) 10.367
 Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) 7.830
 Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 7.880
 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 8.304
 Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.159
 Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) 7.775
 Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) 11.971
 Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) 8.038
 Natalia Kalucka (POL) 8.274
 Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) WC
 Anna Tsyganova (RUS) FS
 Anna Tsyganova (RUS) 7.978
 Di Niu (CHN) 8.037
 Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) 7.650
 Anna Brozek (POL) 7.910
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) FL
 Alla Marenych (UKR) 8.395
 Alla Marenych (UKR) 8.174
 Anna Brozek (POL) 7.961
 Anna Brozek (POL) 7.908
 Yulia Kaplina (RUS) 8.437
 Anna Brozek (POL) WC
 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) FS
 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 8.264
 Ekaterina Barashchuck (RUS) 8.302
 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.713
 YiLing Song (CHN) 8.906
 YiLing Song (CHN) 8.362
 Victoire Andrier (FRA) FL

Men

125 athletes competed in the men's speed competition. Reza Alipour (5.630s) won the final against Bassa Mawem (fell). In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (6.028s) won against QiXin Zhong (fell) and thus claimed the bronze medal.[3]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Finals
            
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 6.144
 Jordan Fishman (USA) 8.977
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 5.808
 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 6.021
 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 6.228
 Leonardo Gontero (ITA) fell
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 5.709
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.836
 Vladislav Deulin (RUS) 6.053
 Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) 12.236
 Vladislav Deulin (RUS) 5.904
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.832
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.953
 Aleksandr Shilov (RUS) 6.438
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 5.630
 Bassa Mawem (FRA) FL
 Bassa Mawem (FRA) WC
 Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) FS
 Bassa Mawem (FRA) 5.714
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.466
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) FS
 Jan Kriz (CZE) WC
 Bassa Mawem (FRA) 5.638
 QiXin Zhong (CHN) 7.540
 Aleksandr Shikov (RUS) 5.851
 PengHui Lin (CHN) 6.044
 Aleksandr Shikov (RUS) 6.354
 QiXin Zhong (CHN) 5.609
 QiXin Zhong (CHN) 5.993
 Marcin Dzienski (POL) 6.428

Bouldering
Women's Boulder Final observation
Women's Boulder winners
Men's Boulder winners

The bouldering event was held over four days. The qualifying took place at Kletterzentrum with the women's qualification held on 11 September and the men's on 12 September. Semi-finals and finals were held at the Olympiaworld on 14 September for the women and 15 September for the men.

Women

112 athletes attended the women's bouldering competition. In the bouldering final lead finalists Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi, and Jessica Pilz made another appearance. The World Cup bouldering seasonal winner Miho Nonaka, reigning world champion Petra Klingler, and Stasa Gejo completed the final. Garnbret won gold over Noguchi and Gejo won bronze.

Rank Name Score
1 Janja Garnbret 2T3z 7 7
2 Akiyo Noguchi 2T2z 4 3
3 Stasa Gejo 1T2z 1 6
4 Jessica Pilz 0T2z 0 4
5 Miho Nonaka 0T2z 0 4
6 Petra Klingler 0T0z 0 0

Men

150 athletes attended the men's bouldering competition, making it the largest individual event at the World Championship. Kai Harada (4T4z 7 6) won the Gold medal over Jongwon Chon (3T4z 9 10) and Gregor Vezonik (3T4z 9 17). The reigning champion, Tomoa Narasaki, and the World Cup seasonal winner, Jernej Kruder, missed the cut to the final.

Rank Name Score
1 Kai Harada 4T4z 7 6
2 Jongwon Chon 3T4z 9 10
3 Gregor Vezonik 3T4z 9 17
4 Keita Watabe 2T4z 6 10
5 Kokoro Fujii 2T2z 5 4
6 Nathan Phillips 1T2z 5 6

Combined
Combined Final
Women's Combined Final winners
Men's Combined Final winners

In the Combined competition the six most successful athletes of the previous competitions competed against each other in Speed, Bouldering and Lead. The athletes were selected by multiplying each athletes rank from the three individual competitions. The six climbers with the lowest scores determined by this method were invited to compete in the Combined final. In the final itself the athletes were again ranked by multiplying their rank in the Speed, Bouldering and Lead portion with a lower score leading to a better Combined rank.

The women's and men's combined final were both held at the Olympiaworld, the women's on 15 September and the men's on 16 September.

Women
Rank Name Score Speed Bouldering Lead
1 Janja Garnbret 5.00 5 1 (4T4z 7 7) 1 (Top)
2 Sol Sa 12.00 1 2 (2T4z 9 18) 6 (23+)
3 Jessica Pilz 24.00 2 6 (1T2z 2 7) 2 (Top)
4 Akiyo Noguchi 54.00 6 3 (2T2z 6 6) 3 (31+)
5 Miho Nonaka 64.00 4 4 (2T2z 10 8) 4 (26+)
6 Petra Klingler 75.00 3 5 (2T2z 12 12) 5 (26+)

Men
Rank Name Score Speed Bouldering Lead
1 Jakob Schubert 4.00 2 1 (4T4z 8 4) 2 (37+)
2 Adam Ondra 10.00 5 2 (4T4z 11 6) 1 (42+)
3 Jan Hojer 24.00 1 4 (3T4z 8 6) 6 (26+)
4 Kai Harada 60.00 4 5 (3T3z 7 4) 3 (34+)
5 Tomoa Narasaki 72.00 6 3 (3T4z 6 5) 4 (34)
6 Kokoro Fujii 90.00 3 6 (2T4z 2 5) 5 (30+)

References
  1. Next IFSC World Championships Announcement
  2. "Women's Speed Climbing EventResults". 14 September 2018. Retrieved 18 August 2019.
  3. "Men's Speed Climbing EventResults". 14 September 2018. Retrieved 18 August 2019.
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