Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. He is a World Champion (2012, 2018) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in Lead climbing, and his highest redpointed grade on rock is 9b+.
 Jakob Schubert, Imst 2010 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Austria | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | December 31, 1990 Innsbruck | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional sport climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 173 cm (5 ft 8 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 63 kg (139 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Sport climbing | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | Three times World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) and twice World Champion (2012, 2018) in Lead climbing | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| First ascents | 9a (5.14d) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on December 15, 2019. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Biography
He started climbing in 2003, when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in the World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven world Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.
In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.[1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).[2]
In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.[3]
In 2014, he won the World Cup for the second time.
In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and home town, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Skofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.
Rankings
Climbing World Cup[4]
| Discipline | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 26 | 7 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 6 | 1 |
| Bouldering | 60 | 65 | 19 | 3 | 2 | - | 25 | 23 | 10 | 9 | ||
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 43 | 59 | - | - | - | - | 59 |
| Combined | - | - | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | - | 4 | 2 | 6 | 1 |
Climbing World Championships
Youth[5]
| Discipline | 2004 Youth B |
2005 Youth B |
2006 Youth A |
2007 Youth A |
2008 Juniors |
2009 Juniors |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 33 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Adult[5]
| Discipline | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 26 | 2 | 1 | 5 | 2 | 1 | 3 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | - | - | 10 | 2 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 110 | |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | - | 1 |
Climbing European Championships[5]
| Discipline | 2008 | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 6 | 3 | 7 | 6 | 3 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 4 | - |
| Speed | - | - | 35 | 27 | 31 |
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
Lead[5]
| Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2004 | Youth B | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2005 | Youth B | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2006 | Youth A | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 |
| Total | 3 | 1 | 3 | 7 | |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead[5]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2009 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2010 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
| 2011 | 7 | 1 | 1 | 9 |
| 2012 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 5 |
| 2013 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
| 2014 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 5 |
| 2015 | 2 | 2 | 4 | |
| 2016 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2017 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2018 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| Total | 18 | 17 | 13 | 48 |
Bouldering[5]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2011 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2012 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2013 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| 2018 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| Total | 3 | 2 | 4 | 9 |
Rock climbing
For the most up-to-date list of ascents visit Jakob Schubert's profile on theCrag.
Redpointed routes
9b+ (5.15c):
9b (5.15b):
- Neanderthal - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 28, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
- El Bon Combat - Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) - December 1, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
- Stoking the Fire - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 5, 2018 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013)
- La Planta da Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - January 4, 2016 - Second ascent after Adam Ondra
- Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - December 31, 2014 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011)[6]
9a+ (5.15a)
- Catxasa - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 9, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
- Seleccio Anal - Oliana (ESP) - January 8, 2017
- Pachamama - Oliana (ESP) - January 2, 2017 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
- Joe Mama - Oliana (ESP) - December 27, 2016 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
- Kangroo Limb - Flatanger (NOR) - May 29, 2016 - Second ascent after Adam Ondra
- Companion of Change - Zillertal (AUT) - November 18, 2015 - First ascent
- Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - April 27, 2011 - Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)[7]
9a (5.14d):
- Kein Licht Kein Schatten - Ötztal (AUT) - November 8, 2016 - First ascent
- Kraftplatzl - Berglsteiner See (AUT) - October 15, 2016 - Second Ascent after David Lama
- Direct open your mind - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 3, 2013
- Fuck the System - Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013[8]
- Analogica Natural - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 2, 2013[8]
- Seleccio Natural - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 28, 2012
- Ciudad de Dios - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 24, 2012
- Martin Krpan - Misja Pec (SVN) - November 21, 2011[9]
- Hades - Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) - May 30, 2010 - First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[10]
- Underground - Massone, Arco (ITA) - March 30, 2010 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
References
- planetmountain.com, ed. (November 28, 2011). "Puigblanque re di Spagna, insieme a Eiter, Kim e Markovic". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
- climbmagazine.com, ed. (October 22, 2011). "Record 7 World Cup wins". Retrieved April 15, 2012.
- Franz Schiassi (September 18, 2012). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi". Retrieved September 18, 2012.
- IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Schubert's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- planetmountain.com, ed. (January 2, 2015). "Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna". Retrieved February 19, 2015.
- planetmountain.com, ed. (April 28, 2011). "Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- up-climbing.com, ed. (January 3, 2013). "Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe". Retrieved January 5, 2013.
- up-climbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2011). "9a per Jakob Schubert". Archived from the original on 2011-12-26. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- up-climbing.com, ed. (June 2, 2010). "Jakob Schubert - 9a". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- up-climbing.com, ed. (April 25, 2011). "Jakob Schubert 8c onsight". Archived from the original on 2016-03-07. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- "Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.