Kim Ja-in

Kim Ja-in (Hangul: 김자인, born 11 September 1988), more widely known as Jain Kim, is a professional climber. She is mainly active in lead climbing and bouldering competitions. She has won the Lead Climbing World Cup three times (2010, 2013, 2014), the Lead Climbing World Championship once (2014), and the Rock Master once (2010, Lead discipline). Moreover, she has won the Asian Championships 14 times in 15 years, namely 11 times in lead climbing and 3 times in bouldering (see below for details).

Jain Kim
Jain Kim in Vienna, 2010
Personal information
NationalitySouth Korea
Born (1988-09-11) 11 September 1988
Goyang, South Korea
ResidenceGanbuk-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Height153 cm (5 ft 0 in)
Weight42 kg (93 lb)
Websitejainkim.kr
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing (Lead climbing and Bouldering)
Highest grade
Known forWinning 3 World Cups, 1 World Championship and 14 Asian Championships.
Medal record
Event 1st 2nd 3rd
World Cups 30 14 17
World Championships 2 3 1
Asian Championships 14 3 2
World Cup
2009Lead
Winner2010Lead
Winner2010Combined
2011Lead
2012Lead
Winner2013Lead
Winner2014Lead
2015Lead
Winner2015Combined
2016Lead
2017Lead
2017Combined
2018Lead
World Championships
2009Lead
2011Lead
2012Lead
2012Combined
2014Lead
2018Lead
World Games
2009Lead
2013Lead
Updated on May 4, 2019.
This is a Korean name; the family name is Kim.

Jain Kim also successfully climbs outdoors. In 2014, she redpointed her first routes graded beyond 8b+; namely Bibita Biologica (8c) and Reini’s Vibes (8c/8c+), both in Arco, Italy.

Biography
Jain Kim in the Bouldering World Cup, Vienna, 2010

Born into a family of mountain-dwellers and climbers,[1] Jain Kim started climbing at the age of 12. In July 2004, at the age of 15, she started competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and since 2006 she has also participated in the Bouldering World Cup.

She won the Lead Climbing Asian Championship in 2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, and 2010. In 2008, she also won the Bouldering Asian Championship. In 2009, she ranked second in the Lead Climbing World Cup,[2] second in the Lead Climbing World Championship,[3] second in the World Games (Lead), and third in the Rock Master (Lead).[4]

In 2010, she won the lead climbing competitions both in the Rock Master[5] and the World Cup.[6] She obtained the World Cup overall title by ranking first in five of the six stages, namely those held in Xining, Chuncheon, Puurs, Huaiji, and Kranj. The only World Cup stage that Jain Kim did not win in 2010 was the first one, held in Chamonix. She won the Lead Climbing World Cup again in 2013 and 2014, each time winning four of the eight events.

In May and June 2014, she redpointed her first routes in rock climbing graded 8b+, namely Bibita Biologica (8c) and Reini’s Vibes (8c/8c+), both in Arco, Italy.

On September 14, 2014, three days after she had turned 26, she achieved an extraordinary victory at the Lead Climbing World Championships, where she managed to ascend (on-sight) all of the routes attempted in the qualifications, the semifinals, and the finals.

On May 20, 2017, she climbed the 555-meter Lotte World Tower in Seoul.[7]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[8]
Discipline 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
Lead 25 18 28 14 18 2 1 2 2 1 1 2 3 2 3 8
Bouldering - - 36 - 51 5 12 7 10 29 - - - 18 48 35
Speed - - - - - - - - - - - 30 - - 75
Combined - - 21 - 25 2 1 2 2 4 - 1 - 2 8 8

Climbing World Championships

Youth[9]

Discipline 2005
Youth A
Lead 22

Adult[9]

Discipline 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019
Lead 32 8 2 2 2 1 4 3 22
Bouldering 12 45 17 11 5 - - 41 25
Speed - - - - 41 - - 54 59
Combined - - - - 1 - - - 40


World Games
Discipline 2005 2009 2013 2017
Lead 5224

Rock Master
Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
Lead 3 1 - - 2
Duel - - 5 - 3

Asian Championships[9]
Discipline 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Lead 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 - 1 1 3 - 1
Bouldering - - 2 1 1 2 2 1 - - 3 - - -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[9]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
200711
20080
2009123
201055
20115117
20123216
20134217
2014426
201533
2016145
20171326
2018224
2019112
Total29131355

Bouldering[9]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
200911
201022
2011112
201211
Total1146

Personal life

She is married to Oh Young-hwan, who is a firefighter of Seoul Fire Services and writer.[10]

See also

References
  1. Auriana Beaute. "Jain Kim's Profile". Retrieved 5 December 2014.
  2. planetmountain.com, ed. (16 November 2009). "Lead World Cup 2009 to Johanna Ernst and Adam Ondra". Archived from the original on 7 December 2014. Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  3. Vinicio Stefanello (7 July 2009). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Climbing World Championships - Qinghai (CHN)". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  4. Vinicio Stefanello (6 September 2009). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Eiter and Puigblanque are the kings of Rock Master 2009". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  5. planetmountain.com, ed. (19 July 2010). "Rock Master 2010". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  6. up-climbing.com, ed. (30 October 2010). "Jain Kim Wins the World Cup 2010". Archived from the original on 11 December 2014. Retrieved 4 December 2014.
  7. "S. Korean female climber reaches top of tallest building". yonhapnews.co.kr. 20 May 2017. Retrieved 20 May 2017.
  8. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  9. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Kim's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  10. wedding invitation sent from Oh Younghwan(GLAD Hotel, 15:00, 12 December 2015). Retrieved 15 November 2015.
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