Laura Rogora

Laura Rogora (born 28 April 2001) is an Italian sport climber. In 2015, she became the second youngest climber, at age 14, to complete a 9a (5.14d) route.[1] In 2019, Rogora qualified to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games,[2] finished 2nd in lead at the IFSC Climbing European Championships [3] and won 3 of 4 possible gold medals at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships, coming first in lead, boulder and combined categories in the Junior age group.[4] As of June 2020, Laura Rogora has done eleven routes 8c+/9a or harder, which is more than any other female climber.[5]

Laura Rogora
Personal information
NationalityItalian
Born (2001-04-28) April 28, 2001
Rome
Height143 cm (4 ft 8 in)
Climbing career
Highest grade
  • Redpoint: 9a+ (5.15a)
  • On-sight: 8b+ (5.14a)
Known forThe first Italian female and the second youngest (age 14) climber to top a 9a route, the fifth woman and first Italian woman to climb 9a+
First ascents
  • Rèveille-toi 9a, Cueva di Collepardo
  • Sitting Bull, 8c+/9a, Cueva di Collepardo
  • Ercole, 8c/+ Cueva di Collepardo
  • La Gasparata, 8c+/9a, Cueva di Collepardo
  • Supercrack, 8b+/8c, Cueva di Collepardo
  • Tomorrowland extension, 8c+/9a, Cueva di Collepardo
Medal record
European Championships
2019Lead

Notable ascents

Updated 1 June 2020[5]

On-sight
  • 8b+ (5.14a)

Redpoint
  • 9a+ (5.15a)
    • Pure Dreaming Plus, Arco, 30 May 2020 (first female ascent and first repeat of the route, established by Adam Ondra)
  • 9a (5.14d)
    • Grandi Gesti, Sperlonga, March 2016
    • Joe-cita, Oliana, February 2017
    • Esclatamasters, Perles, Spain, January 2019
    • La Bongada, Margalef, January 2020
  • 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d)
    • Pal Norte 8c+/9a, Margalef, December 2019
  • 8c+ (5.14c)
    • Joe Blau 8c+, Oliana, Spain, January 2017
  • 8c (5.14b)
    • Ciccio Formaggio Grotta dell’Aerenauta, Sperlonga, December 2014 (her first 8c at age 13).
    • Il Corvo, Ferentillo, April 2015
    • Wallstreet, Frankenjura, Germany, August 2016

First ascents
  • Tomorrowland extension, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, November 2016
  • Supercrack, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, December 2016
  • La Gasparata, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, January 2017
  • Ercole, 8c+ (5.14c), Cueva di Collepardo, March 2017
  • It segid narg, 8c+ (5.14c), Grotta dell'Arenauta Sperlonga, December 2017
  • Sitting Bull, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, April 2018
  • Rèveille-toi, 9a (5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, June 2019

Competition highlights

IFSC Olympic qualifying

IFSC Climbing European Championships
  • 2019 IFSC Climbing European Championships (Edinburgh)
    • Women lead: 2nd

IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships
  • 2019 IFSC Youth World Championships (Arco)
    • Female Youth Juniors combined: 1st
    • Female Youth Juniors boulder: 1st
    • Female YouthJuniors lead: 1st
  • 2018 IFSC Youth World Championships (Moscow)
    • Female Youth A boulder: 1st
    • Female Youth A lead: 6th
  • 2017 IFSC Youth World Championships (Innsbruck)
    • Female Youth A combined: 6th
    • Female Youth A boulder: 4th
    • Female Youth A combined: 5th

European Youth Championships
  • 2017 European Youth Championships (Lead & Speed) (Perm)
    • Female Youth A lead: 4th

Notable ascents

May 30, 2020 - first female ascent of Pure Dreaming Plus - 9a+ (5.15a), making her the fifth woman in the world after Margo Hayes, Anak Verhoeven, Angela Eiter and Julia Chanourdie and the first Italian woman to climb 9a+ or harder[6]

References
  1. "Fifteen-Year-Old Laura Rogora Sends Joe-Cita (5.14d)". Rock & Ice. 28 February 2017. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  2. "SIX WOMEN QUALIFY FOR OLYMPICS IN TOULOUSE". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 1 December 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  3. "Lučka Rakovec and Adam Ondra crowned European Climbing Champions in Edinburgh". Planet Mountain. 6 October 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  4. "IFSC YOUTH WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 31 August 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
  5. "Pure Dreaming Plus 9a+ by Laura Rogora (18)". www.8a.nu. 1 June 2020. Retrieved 2020-06-01.
  6. "Laura Rogora first Italian woman to climb 9a+, Pure Dreaming Plus at Arco". planetmountain.com. 31 May 2020. Retrieved 2020-06-01.


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