IFSC Climbing World Championships

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of sport climbing: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Since 2012, a Combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking.[1][2][3][4]

Not to be confused with IFSC Climbing World Cup.
IFSC Climbing World Championships
Seasons
Disciplines

The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

History

Creation and organisers

In 1991, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) organized the first climbing championships. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competitions.[5]

In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern competition climbing.

Events

The present format has four disciplines: lead, speed, bouldering, and combined.

The first championships had two events: lead and speed. Bouldering was added in 2001.

In 2012, 2014 and 2016, a combined ranking (sometimes also called overall ranking) was computed for climbers participating in all of the three events.[1][2][3] In 2018, an specific combined event was included which the six climbers with highest overall ranking[6][7] were invited to enter. The combined event requires athletes to compete in all three disciplines, and they receive a single combined score based on all three results. Scores achieved in single-discipline events are not relevant to the combined score, and there are no awards for any one part of the combined event. The 2018 combined event tested the new Olympic Games format, which will be used at the first appearance of climbing at the Olympics in 2020. In 2019 the Combined competition was held again with the best eight men's and women's athletes receiving invitations to the 2020 Olympics.

Paraclimbing was introduced at the 2012 World Championships, but from 2019 it became its own championship, the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships.

Years

The World Championships are held every two years. Twice, the cycle has been moved to the other year and in those cases this was done by holding the next championship one year earlier. In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years to avoid interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and to give a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games. In 2019 the World Championships were again held one year early, to now allow the Championships to be the year before each Olympics to operate as a qualifier event.


Championships
EditionYearLocationDate(s)DisciplinesAthletesNationsWebsiteNotes
number lead speed boulder overall para
1 1991 Frankfurt 2 October 2 • • 110 22 [8]
2 1993 Innsbruck 30 April 2 • • 127 23 [9]
3 1995 Geneva 6 May 2 • • 135 24 [10]
4 1997 Paris 1 February 2 • • 153 26 [11]
5 1999 Birmingham 3 December 2 • • 180 30 [12]
6 2001 Winterthur 5–8 September 3 • • • 198 25 [13]
7 2003 Chamonix 9–13 July 3 • • • 241 34 [14]
8 2005 Munich 1–5 July 3 • • • 318 51 [15]
9 2007 Avilés 17–23 September 3 • • • 302 50 [16]
10 2009 Xining 30 June – 5 July 4 • • • 219 44 [17]
11 2011 Arco 15–24 July 4 • • • • 374 56 [18]
12 2012 Paris 12–16 September 5 • • • • • 331 56 [19][1]
13 2014 Munich 21–23 August 1 • 509 52 [20][2]
Gijón 8–14 September 4 • • • •
14 2016 Paris 14–18 September 5 • • • • • 533 53 [21][3][22]
15 2018 Innsbruck 6–16 September 5 • • • • • 834 58 [23][4]
16 2019 Briançon 16–17 July 1 •
Hachioji 11–21 August 4 • • • • 253 39 [24][25]
17 2021 Moscow[26] ?

Medal table

As of 2019 (Medals from Paraclimbing are not included in the table)[27]

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Russia (RUS)16122452
2 France (FRA)12141642
3 Austria (AUT)116825
4 Ukraine (UKR)107421
5 Slovenia (SLO)85518
6 Czech Republic (CZE)610420
7 China (CHN)5319
8 Italy (ITA)5016
9 Japan (JPN)48618
10 Poland (POL)45716
11 Spain (ESP)4408
12  Switzerland (SUI)3159
13 Canada (CAN)3104
14 United States (USA)26210
15 Belgium (BEL)2608
16 South Korea (KOR)2518
17 Germany (GER)14813
18 Iran (IRN)1113
19 Kazakhstan (KAZ)0134
20 Venezuela (VEN)0101
21 Great Britain (GBR)0033
22 Netherlands (NED)0011
 Serbia (SRB)0011
Totals (23 nations)99100101300

Men's Results

Lead
Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 François Legrand Yuji Hirayama Guido Köstermeyer
1993 François Legrand Stefan Glowacz Yuji Hirayama
1995 François Legrand Arnaud Petit Elie Chevieux
1997 François Petit Chris Sharma François Legrand
1999 Bernardino Lagni Yuji Hirayama Maksym Petrenko
2001 Gérome Pouvreau Tomáš Mrázek François Petit
2003 Tomáš Mrázek Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza David Caude
2005 Tomáš Mrázek Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Alexandre Chabot
2007 Ramón Julián Puigblanque Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Cédric Lachat
Tomáš Mrázek
Jorg Verhoeven
2009 Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Adam Ondra David Lama
2011 Ramón Julián Puigblanque Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra
2012 Jakob Schubert Sean McColl Adam Ondra
2014 Adam Ondra Ramón Julián Puigblanque Sachi Amma
2016 Adam Ondra Jakob Schubert Gautier Supper
2018 Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra Alex Megos
2019 Adam Ondra Alex Megos Jakob Schubert

Bouldering
Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001 Mauro Calibani Frédéric Tuscan Christian Core
2003 Christian Core Jérôme Meyer Tomasz Oleksy
2005 Salavat Rakhmetov Kilian Fischhuber Gérome Pouvreau
2007 Dmitri Sarafutdinov Martin Stranik Cédric Lachat
2009 Alexey Rubtsov Rustam Gelmanov David Barrans
2011 Dmitri Sarafutdinov Adam Ondra Rustam Gelmanov
2012 Dmitri Sarafutdinov Kilian Fischhuber Rustam Gelmanov
2014 Adam Ondra Jernej Kruder Jan Hojer
2016 Tomoa Narasaki Adam Ondra Manuel Cornu
2018 Kai Harada Jongwon Chon Gregor Vezonik
2019 Tomoa Narasaki Jakob Schubert Yannick Flohé

Speed
Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Hans Florine Jacky Godoffe Kairat Rakhmetov
1993 Vladimir Netsvetaev Serik Kazbekov Yevgen Kryvosheytsev
1995 Andrey Vedenmeer Milan Benian Vladimir Netsvetaev
1997 Daniel Andrada Yevgen Kryvosheytsev Dmitry Bychkov
1999 Vladimir Zakharov Vladimir Netsvetaev Alexey Gadeev
2001 Maksym Styenkovyy Vladimir Zakharov Tomasz Oleksy
2003 Maksym Styenkovyy Tomasz Oleksy Alexander Peshekhonov
2005 Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Maksym Styenkovyy Sergey Sinitcyn
2007 Zhong Qixin Manuel Escobar Sergey Sinitcyn
2009 (10 m) Zhong Qixin Alexander Nigmatulin Ivan Novikov
2009 (15 m)[28] Zhong Qixin Sergey Abdrakhmanov Ning Zhang
2011 Zhong Qixin Stanislav Kokorin Danyil Boldyrev
2012 Zhong Qixin Libor Hroza Dmitry Timofeev
2014 Danyil Boldyrev Stanislav Kokorin Reza Alipour
2016 Marcin Dzieński Reza Alipour Aleksander Shikov
2018 Reza Alipour Bassa Mawem Stanislav Kokorin
2019 Ludovico Fossali Jan Kriz Stanislav Kokorin

Combined
Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012[1] Sean McColl Thomas Tauporn Cédric Lachat
2014[2] Sean McColl Jan Hojer Levier Alban
2016[3][22] Sean McColl Manuel Cornu David Firnenburg
2018[4] Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra Jan Hojer
2019 Tomoa Narasaki Jakob Schubert Rishat Khaibullin

Women's Results

Lead
Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Susi Good Isabelle Patissier Robyn Erbesfield
1993 Susi Good Robyn Erbesfield Isabelle Patissier
1995 Robyn Erbesfield Laurence Guyon Liv Sansoz
1997 Liv Sansoz Muriel Sarkany Marietta Uhden
1999 Liv Sansoz Muriel Sarkany Yelena Ovchinnikova
2001 Martina Cufar Muriel Sarkany Chloé Minoret
2003 Muriel Sarkany Emilie Pouget Sandrine Levet
2005 Angela Eiter Emily Harrington Akiyo Noguchi
2007 Angela Eiter Muriel Sarkany Maja Vidmar
2009 Johanna Ernst Kim Ja-in Maja Vidmar
2011 Angela Eiter Kim Ja-in Magdalena Röck
2012 Angela Eiter Kim Ja-in Johanna Ernst
2014 Kim Ja-in Mina Markovič Magdalena Röck
2016 Janja Garnbret Anak Verhoeven Mina Markovič
2018 Jessica Pilz Janja Garnbret Kim Ja-in
2019 Janja Garnbret Mia Krampl Ai Mori

Bouldering
Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001 Myriam Motteau Sandrine Levet Nataliya Perlova
2003 Sandrine Levet Nataliya Perlova Fanny Rogeaux
2005 Olga Shalagina Yulia Abramchuk Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova
2007 Anna Stöhr Akiyo Noguchi Olga Bibik
2009 Yulia Abramchuk Olga Shalagina Anna Stöhr
2011 Anna Stöhr Sasha DiGiulian Juliane Wurm
2012 Mélanie Sandoz Olga Yakovleva Anna Stöhr
2014 Juliane Wurm Alex Puccio Akiyo Noguchi
2016 Petra Klingler Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi
2018 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Staša Gejo
2019 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Shauna Coxsey

Speed
Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Isabelle Dorsimond Agnès Brard Venera Chereshneva
1993 Olga Bibik Isabelle Dorsimond Renata Piszczek
1995 Natalie Richer Cecile Avezou Renata Piszczek
1997 Tatiana Ruyga Irina Zaytseva Olga Bibik
1999 Olga Zakharova Olena Ryepko Natalia Novikova
2001 Olena Ryepko Maya Piratinskaya Svetlana Sutkina
2003 Olena Ryepko Tatiana Ruyga Valentina Yurina
2005 Olena Ryepko Valentina Yurina Edyta Ropek
2007 Tatiana Ruyga Edyta Ropek Valentina Yurina
2009 (10 m) He Cuilian He Cuifang Li Chunhua
2009 (15 m) He Cuilian He Cuifang Li Chunhua
2011 Maria Krasavina Anna Tsyganova Tamara Kuznetsova
2012 Yulia Levochkina Yulia Kaplina Natalia Titova
2014 Alina Gaidamakina Klaudia Buczek Aleksandra Rudzińska
2016 Anna Tsyganova Anouck Jaubert Yulia Kaplina
2018 Aleksandra Rudzińska Anna Brożek Maria Krasavina
2019 Aleksandra Mirosław Di Nui Anouck Jaubert

Combined
Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012 Kim Ja-in Cecile Avezou Petra Klingler
2014[2] Charlotte Durif Petra Klingler Mina Markovič
2016[3][22] Elena Krasovskaya Claire Buhrfeind Charlotte Durif
2018[4] Janja Garnbret Sa Sol Jessica Pilz
2019 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Shauna Coxsey

See also

References
  1. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  2. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  3. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  5. "Climbing Competitions' History". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 24 September 2015. Retrieved 12 May 2013.
  6. "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Men". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  7. "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Women". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  8. "UIAA World Championship – Frankfurt 1991". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  9. "UIAA World Championship – Innsbruck 1993". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  10. "UIAA World Championship – Genève 1995". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  11. "UIAA World Championship – Paris 1997". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  12. "UIAA World Championship – Birmingham (GBR) 1999". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  13. "UIAA World Championship – Winterthur (SUI) 2001". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  14. "UIAA Worldchampionship – Chamonix (FRA) 2003". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  15. "UIAA World Championship – Munich (GER) 2005". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  16. "IFSC Climbing World Championship (L + B + S) – Aviles (ESP) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  17. "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  18. "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  19. "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  20. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/world-championships
  21. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  22. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  23. "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  24. "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  25. "IFSC Climbing World Championships Combined – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  26. "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  27. fr:Championnats du monde d'escalade
  28. "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009 – 15 m Speed".
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