Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics
| Sport Climbing at the III Summer Youth Olympic Games | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Venue | Parque Polideportivo Roca |
| Dates | 7–10 October |
| No. of events | 2 |
| Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics  | ||
|---|---|---|
| Events | ||
| Combined | Boys | Girls |
Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics will be held from 7 to 10 October. The competition will take place at the Parque Polideportivo Roca in Buenos Aires, Argentina. This marks the debut of the sport at the Youth Olympics.
Qualification
Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) can enter a maximum of 4 competitors, 2 per each gender. As hosts, Argentina is given 2 quotas, 1 per each gender provided that they participate at the Youth World Championships. A further 2 quotas, 1 in each gender will be allocated by the Tripartite Commission. The remaining 36 places shall be decided in two qualification phases; the 2017 Youth World Championship and five continental championships.[1]
Shortly before the deadline for entries in September, The IOC informed the IFSC 1 additional female athlete and 1 additional male athlete were added to the quota for Sport Climbing, raising the number of qualified athletes to 21 female athletes and 21 male athletes. [2]
To be eligible to participate at the Youth Olympics athletes must have been born between 1 January 2000 and 31 December 2001.[1]
Although two athletes from the United States, Ashima Shiraishi and Brooke Raboutou, finished second and third at the Youth World Championship and were included on preliminary lists of qualified athletes, the United States Olympic Committee declined to allow them to participate, citing a fixed limit on the total number of athletes that it could send to all events, and a low prioritization of the climbing event based on the fact that USA Climbing had applied for recognition by the USOC but not yet received it.[3] Similarly, Chinese female athlete Song Yi Ling qualified through the Youth World Championship but was not included on the final starting list of athletes for the Youth Olympics.[4] The qualified athletes are as follows[5]
Boys
| Event | Location | Date | Total Places | Qualified |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Host Nation | - | - | 0 |  |
| 2017 World Youth Championship[6] |  | 30 Aug–10 Sept 2017 | 15 | 
|
| 2017 Asian Youth Championship[7] |  | 5–9 July 2017 | 1 |  |
| 2017 Oceania Youth Championship[8] |  | 13–15 October 2017 | 1 |  |
| 2017 Pan American Youth Championship[9] |  | 30 Oct–5 Nov 2017 | 2 |  |
| 2017 European Youth Championship[10] | | 25–26 November 2017 | 1 |  |
| 2017 African Youth Championship[11] |  | 8 December 2017 | 1 | |
| TOTAL | 21 |
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Girls
| Event | Location | Date | Total Places | Qualified |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Host Nation | - | - | 1 | |
| 2017 World Youth Championship[6] | | 30 Aug–10 Sept 2017 | 14 |
|
| 2017 Asian Youth Championship[7] | | 5–9 July 2017 | 1 |  |
| 2017 Oceania Youth Championship[8] | | 13–15 October 2017 | 1 |  |
| 2017 Pan American Youth Championship[12] | | 30 Oct–5 Nov 2017 | 2 |  |
| 2017 European Youth Championship[13] | | 25–26 November 2017 | 1 | |
| 2017 African Youth Championship[11] | | 8 December 2017 | 1 | |
| TOTAL | 21 |
Schedule
The competition will follow the Olympic format [14], with each athlete competing in Speed, Bouldering and then Lead. The ranking is calculated by multiplying the placing in the individual events, with a lower combined score resulting in a better ranking. The top 6 ranked athletes will progress to the final. [15]
| Q | Qualifiers | F | Final |
| Event ↓ / Date → | Sun 7 | Mon 8 | Tue 9 | Wed 10 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Girls' Combined | Q | F | ||
| Boys' Combined | Q | F |
Girl's qualification is on the 7th, with the final on the 9th. Boy's qualification is on the 8th of October, with the final on the 10th. [16]
Medal summary
Medal table
| Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | | 1 | 1 | 0 | 2 |
| 2 | | 1 | 0 | 1 | 2 |
| 3 |  | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
| 4 | | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
| Totals (4 nations) | 2 | 2 | 2 | 6 | |
Events
| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| Boys' combined |
Keita Dohi |
Shuta Tanaka |
Sam Avezou |
| Girls' combined |
Sandra Lettner |
Vita Lukan |
Laura Lammer |
References
- 1 2 "Qualification System: Sport Climbing" (PDF). IFSC. 29 August 2017. Retrieved 13 October 2017.
- ↑ http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/1254-sport-climbing-yog-quota-expands
- ↑ Waggoner, Kynan (July 25, 2017). "Letter to Zach Galla, Ross Fulkerson, Brooke Raboutou, Ashima Shiraishi, and Arabella Jariel" (PDF). USA Climbing.
- ↑ "Qualified athletes for sport climbing" (PDF). IFSC. Retrieved 2018-10-05.
- ↑ http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2018/2018_IFSC_Official_Press_Release_YOG_Buenos_Aires_Preview.pdf
- 1 2 "World Youth Championship". IFSC. 10 September 2017. Retrieved 13 October 2017.
- 1 2 "Asian Youth Championship: Youth A Combined" (PDF). IFSC. 9 July 2017. Retrieved 3 August 2017.
- 1 2 "Oceania Youth Championship Combined Results" (PDF). IFSC. 15 October 2017. Retrieved 10 November 2017.
- ↑ "Pan American Youth Championship Male Combined Results". IFSC. 5 November 2017. Retrieved 10 November 2017.
- ↑ "European Youth Championship Male Combined Results". IFSC. 26 November 2017. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
- 1 2 "Africa Youth A Climbing Cup Winners" (PDF). IFSC. 8 December 2017. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
- ↑ "Pan American Youth Championship Female Combined Results". IFSC. 5 November 2017. Retrieved 10 November 2017.
- ↑ "European Championship Female Combined Results". IFSC. 26 November 2017. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
- ↑ http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/1258-youth-olympic-games-preview-sport-climbing-s-game-changers
- ↑ http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2017/2017_IFSC_Plenary_Assembly_Quebec_City_Olympic_Format.pdf
- ↑ https://www.buenosaires2018.com/results/en/all-sports/competition-schedule.htm