Småland

Småland

Coat of arms
Country Sweden
Land Götaland
Counties Kronoberg County
Kalmar County
Jönköping County
Halland County
Östergötland County
Area
  Total 29,400 km2 (11,400 sq mi)
Population (31 December 2016)[1]
  Total 754,535
  Density 26/km2 (66/sq mi)
Ethnicity
  Language Swedish
  Dialect Småländska
  Demonym Smålänning
Culture
  Flower Twinflower
  Animal Otter
  Bird Song thrush
Time zone UTC+1 (CET)
  Summer (DST) UTC+2 (CEST)
Postal codes 33000–34999, 35000–36999, 38000–39999, 55000–57999, 59000–59999 (shared with Östergötland)
Area codes 0372
0433
0459
0470–0478
0480–0493

Småland (Swedish pronunciation: [ˈsmoːland] ( listen)) is a historical province (landskap) in southern Sweden. Småland borders Blekinge, Scania (Swedish: Skåne), Halland, Västergötland, Östergötland and the island Öland in the Baltic Sea. The name Småland literally means Small Lands.[2] The Latinized form Smolandia has been used in other languages. The highest point in Småland is Tomtabacken, at 377 metres (1,237 ft).

Administration

The traditional provinces of Sweden serve no administrative or political purposes, but are historical and cultural entities. The province is divided into the three administrative counties: Jönköping County, Kalmar County and Kronoberg County, which roughly cover the entire Småland province. Smaller areas of Småland, however, are situated in Halland County and Östergötland County.

Heraldry

The current coat of arms, granted in 1569, features a rampant red lion on a golden shield carrying a crossbow. The arms may appear with a ducal coronet. Blazon: "Or a lion rampant Gules langued and armed Azure holding in front paws a Crossbow of the second bowed and stringed Sable with a bolt Argent."

Population

The population of Småland was 754,535 as of 31 December 2016, distributed over five counties as follows:[1]

CountyPopulation
Jönköping County, largely333,923
Kalmar County, largely216,455
Kronoberg County, entirely194,628
Halland County, peripherally7,574
Östergötland County, peripherally1,955
LocalityPopulation
Jönköping89,396
Växjö65,387
Kalmar36,392
Västervik21,140
Värnamo18,696
Oskarshamn17,258
Nässjö16,678
Ljungby15,205
Tranås14,197
Vetlanda13,050
Nybro12,810

Geography

An image from a canyon in the forested Småland.

The geography is dominated by a forested high plain where the soil is mixed with sand and small boulders, making it barren in all except the coastal areas, and unsuited for agriculture except in certain locations, notably the Kalmar Plains. The province is rich in lakes and bogs. The coast consists of an archipelago of islands and bays in the north and cultivated flatlands in the south. In total, cultivated land covers 14%, meadows 7% and forest 50%.[3] Except for a lack of deep valleys the landscape is similar to the Norrland terrain found further north in Sweden.[4]

Largest towns are Jönköping in the north-west, Växjö in the south, and Kalmar on the east coast near Öland Island.

Terrain

Småland constitutes the central, eastern and southern parts of the South Swedish highlands. In detail the topography of Småland is that of a series of flat surfaces built-upon or deformed-by a geological dome.[5][6] The elevated terrain thought to be a buckle formed as result of far-away forces transmitted to Sweden.[7] The main surfaces are the Sub-Cambrian peneplain, the South Småland peneplain and the "200 m peneplain".[5][6] These surfaces and others are arranged in a stepped sequence called a piedmonttreppen.[6] In eastern Småland the Sub-Cambrian peneplain forms a gently east-dipping surface that reaches the sea.[5][upper-alpha 1] To the west this part of the Sub-Cambrian peneplain terminates along a north-south escarpment (runs slightly east of Växjö) that separates it from other flat surfaces.[5] Central and northwestern Småland contains strings of isolated hills.[5]

The lakes and rivers of Småland are associated to zones of weak rock, be it either fractures, weathered rock or both. The great number of lakes in Småland is indebted to the creation of basins due to the stripping of an irregular mantle of weathered rock by glacier erosion.[8] Lagan and Nissan drains western Småland following for most of their course zones of weak rock associated to the Protogine Zone.[5][9] The lakes Rusken, Rymmen and Möckeln are aligned with a more eastern branch of the Protogine Zone.[9] Canyons cut into the bedrock are common in central and northern Småland, with the area near Mörlunda containing various particularly narrow (<50 m) canyons.[10][11][upper-alpha 2]

Climate

The climate of Småland is divided between the oceanic climate of coastal areas such as Kalmar[12] and the humid continental climate of the interior higher areas such as Jönköping.[13] Southern interior areas such as Växjö have similar oceanic climates such as the coastline.[14] However, temperature average differences between areas are relatively small, since Småland lies in the continental/oceanic transition zone. Summer daytime averages are similar throughout the province, since according to Weatherbase all three major urban areas are on average around 21 °C (70 °F) with daytime winter temperatures hovering around the freezing point. The slightly colder nights averaging −5 °C (23 °F) in Jönköping are rendering its continental classification.[15] The locality of Målilla has the Swedish and Scandinavian all-time highest-measured temperature with 38 °C (100 °F) on June 1, 1947.[16]

History

The area was probably populated in the Stone Age from the south, by people moving along the coast up to Kalmar. Småland was populated by Stone Age peoples by at least 6000 BC, since the Alby People are known to have crossed the ice bridge across the Kalmar Strait at that time.

The name Småland ("small lands") comes from the fact that it was a combination of several independent lands, Kinda (today a part of Östergötland), Tveta, Vista, Vedbo, Tjust, Sevede, Aspeland, Handbörd, Möre, Värend, Finnveden and Njudung. Every small land had its own law in the Viking age and early middle age and could declare themselves neutral in wars Sweden was involved in, at least if the King had no army present at the parliamentary debate. Around 1350, in the reign of king Magnus Eriksson, the first national law code was introduced in Sweden, and the historic provinces lost much of their old autonomy.

The city of Kalmar is one of the oldest cities of Sweden, and in the medieval age it was the southernmost and the third largest city in Sweden, when it was a center for export of iron, which, in many cases, was handled by German merchants. At the time, Scania and Blekinge were not parts of Sweden.

Småland was the center of several peasant rebellions. The one closest to being successful was Dackefejden led by Nils Dacke in 1542–1543. When officials of king Gustav Vasa were assaulted and murdered, the king sent small expeditions to pacify the area, but all failed. Dacke was in reality the ruler of large parts of Småland during the winter, though heavily troubled by a blockade of supplies, before finally being defeated by larger forces attacking from both Västergötland and Östergötland. Dacke held a famous battle defence at the (now ruined) Kronoberg Castle, and was shot while trying to escape to then Danish-ruled Blekinge.

A geographical part of Småland called Kingdom of Crystal is known for its many glassworks and can be historically traced back to the 18th century.

Traditional Windsor chairs perhaps made in Småland

In the 19th century, Småland was characterized by poverty, and had a substantial emigration to North America, which additionally hampered its development. The majority of emigrants ended up in Minnesota, with a geography resembling Sweden, combining arable land with forest and lakes. Many then moved to Stamford, Texas, recruited by the state's first Swedish immigrant, Swante M. Swenson, who had become a wealthy Texas magnate[17] and friend of Sam Houston.

The well known furniture company IKEA was founded in the Småland town of Älmhult.

Overnight between 8 and 9 January 2005 the province suffered serious damage from the storm Gudrun.

Historical cities

Towns with former city status were: Eksjö (chartered around 1400), Gränna (1652), Huskvarna (1911), Jönköping (1284), Kalmar (approximately 1100), Ljungby (1936), Nybro (1932), Nässjö (1914), Oskarshamn (1856), Sävsjö (1947), Tranås (1919), Vetlanda (1920), Vimmerby (approximately 1400), Värnamo (1920), Västervik (approximately 1200), Växjö (1342)

National parks

Småland has three national parks:

Religion

Ingatorp Old Church, Småland, Sweden, ca. 1895

Compared to much of Sweden, Småland has a higher level of religious intensity and church participation.

In terms of Lutheran ecclesiastical boundaries, most of the province encompasses the diocese of Växjö. Parts of northern Småland are in the diocese of Linköping.

Småland is also known for its free churches, although the free church congregations are concentrated in Jönköping County. Most of Kalmar County and Kronoberg County have few or no free church congregations.

Politically Småland is the strongest province for Kristdemokraterna (the Swedish Christian Democratic Party), and both of the last two leaders of the party - Göran Hägglund and Alf Svensson live in Jönköping Municipality in northern Småland.

Culture

Farmhouses in Småland are typically red with white corners.

The Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus, sw. Carl von Linné (1707–1778), often called the father of taxonomy or "The flower-king", was born in Älmhult in Småland. He gave the twinflower its Latin name based on his own (Latin: Linnaea borealis), because of his particular fondness of it. The flower has become Småland's provincial flower.

Another notable person from Älmhult is Ingvar Kamprad, the founder of the global company IKEA. The name "Småland" is used as the name of the children's play areas at some IKEA stores.

Education

Småland is home to the Linnaeus University, located in Växjö and Kalmar, and the Jönköping University.

Literature

The Swedish emigration to North America during the 19th century, is best depicted in a suite of novels by author Vilhelm Moberg, which is also the basis for the musical Kristina from Duvemåla created by Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus of ABBA fame.

In her writing, children's book author Astrid Lindgren often portrayed scenes from her own childhood, growing up on a farm in Småland.

Smålandians

In the 20th century, Småland has been known for its high level of entrepreneurship and low unemployment, especially in the Gnosjö region.

Old Swedish encyclopedia Nordisk familjebok describes the inhabitants of Småland as follows:

the Smålandian is by nature awake and smart, diligent and hard-working, yet compliant, cunning and crafty, which gives him the advantage of being able to move through life with little means. [18]

A running joke local to Sweden, is that Smålandians are very economical, ranging from modestly frugal to utterly cheap. Ingvar Kamprad said that the Smålandian are seen as the Scotsmen of Sweden.[19]

Language

The local language is a Swedish dialect known as Småländska (Smalandian). This may in turn be separated in two main branches, with the northern related to the Götaland dialects and the southern to the Scanian dialects.

Sub-divisions

For details, see: Districts of Småland

Small lands

The small lands of Småland. The black and red spots indicate runestones. The red spots indicate runestones telling of long voyages.

After the unification of Sweden, around 800–1200 AD, Småland was for consistency divided into chartered cities and into hundreds.

Hundreds

The historical sub-divisions of all Sweden's provinces were through hundreds (Swedish: härad). These were Småland's hundreds:

Towns in Småland

List of towns in Småland, Sweden

Sports

Football in the province is administered by Smålands Fotbollförbund.

See also

Notes

  1. Then the surface has a continuation as unconformity beneath Öland.[5]
  2. During deglaciation meltwater from the Weichsel ice flowed through the canyons contributing to their formation.[11]

References

  1. 1 2 "Folkmängd i landskapen den 31 december 2016" (in Swedish). Statistics Sweden. 21 March 2017. Retrieved 26 November 2017.
  2. Encyclopædia Britannica; Micropaedia Volume IX (1974) p. 278
  3. This figure is from Nordisk familjebok (see details and link below). A guess would be that meadows have decreased since.
  4. Lundqvist, Jan (1969). "Landskapet". In Lundqvist, Magnus. Det Moderna Sverige (in Swedish). Bonniers. pp. 64–67.
  5. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Lidmar-Bergström (1988). "Denudation surfaces of a shield area in southern Sweden". Geografiska Annaler. 70 A (4): 337–350.
  6. 1 2 3 Lidmar-Bergström, Karna; Olvmo, Mats; Bonow, Johan M. (2017). "The South Swedish Dome: a key structure for identification of peneplains and conclusions on Phanerozoic tectonics of an ancient shield". GFF.
  7. Japsen, Peter; Chalmers, James A.; Green, Paul F.; Bonow, Johan M. (2012). "Elevated, passive continental margins: Not rift shoulders, but expressions of episodic, post-rift burial and exhumation". Global and Planetary Change. 90–91: 73–86.
  8. Lidmar-Bergström, K.; Olsson, S.; Roaldset, E. (1999). "Relief features and palaeoweathering remnants in formerly glaciated Scandinavian basement areas". In Thiry, Médard; Simon-Coinçon, Régine. Palaeoweathering, Palaeosurfaces and Related Continental Deposits. Special publication of the International Association of Sedimentologists. 27. Blackwell Science Ltd. pp. 275–301. ISBN 0-632 -05311-9.
  9. 1 2 Andréasson, Per-Gunnar; Rodhe, Agnes (1992). The Protogine Zone. Geology and mobility during the last 1.5 Ga (PDF) (Report). SKB technical report.
  10. Persson, Torsten (1977). "Erosion channels and canyons in the central South Swedish Highlands — a short survey" (PDF). Bulletin of the Geological Society of Finland. 49: 11–18. Retrieved February 18, 2018.
  11. 1 2 Olvmo, M. (1992). "Glaciofluvial canyons and their relation to the Late Weiochselian deglaciation in Fennoscandia". Zeitschrift für Geomorphologie. 36 (3): 343–363.
  12. "Karlmar, Sweden Climate summary". Weatherbase. Retrieved 12 December 2014.
  13. "Jonkoping, Sweden Climate summary". Weatherbase. Retrieved 12 December 2014.
  14. "Vaxjo, Sweden Köppen Climate Classification". Weatherbase. Retrieved 12 December 2014.
  15. "Jonkoping, Sweden temperature averages". Weatherbase. Retrieved 12 December 2014.
  16. "Hur var vädret?". Swedish Meteorological and Hydrological Institute. Retrieved 12 December 2014.
  17. TSHA "Swenson, Swante Magnus, 1816-1896, Handbook of Texas), Texas State Historical Society.
  18. Smålänningen är till sin natur vaken och intelligent, flitig och sträfsam, rask och hurtig, men likväl foglig till lynnet, händig och slug, hvilket allt medför åt honom den förmånen, att han äfven med små medel kan taga sig fram i lifvet. . p.62; source as above.
  19. SSR TSR March 24, 2006

Coordinates: 57°06′04″N 14°53′53″E / 57.101°N 14.898°E / 57.101; 14.898

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