Shaun Leane (jeweller)

Work with Alexander McQueen

Coiled Corset, 2004

In 1992, a year after completing his apprenticeship, a mutual friend introduced Leane to Lee Alexander McQueen, who was then studying at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design.^[8][9][10] The next year, after McQueen had graduated, he visited Leane at work, and was impressed by the traditional pieces Leane was working on, and appreciated his attention to detail. He asked Leane to create Victorian-style silver fob watch chains for his fourth post-college show, Highland Rape.^[8][9] Working with McQueen was a departure for Leane, who, after training with precious metals and stones, was now working with brass, aluminum and sterling silver for McQueen's catwalk shows,^[11] and had to teach himself new techniques to create the large finale pieces for McQueen's shows.^[8]

Leane was soon working on eight shows a year for McQueen and Givenchy.^[6] His designs for McQueen went from small jewels in the early shows (the watch chains in the 1995 Highland Rape collection, tusk earrings for the Spring/Summer 1996 show The Hunger) to larger and more avant-garde designs such as the spine skeleton corset for the Spring/Summer 2008 show Untitled.^[11][12] His 1996 mouthpiece, titled Repression, was originally created for the 1997 McQueen Autumn-Winter collection, and chosen by Isabella Blow as part of a group of garments selected to represent fashions of 1997 in the Fashion Museum, Bath's Dress of the Year collection.^[13]

Leane worked with McQueen on an African-inspired neckpiece worn by Björk on the cover of her 1997 album Homogenic. After creating that piece, McQueen asked Leane if he could create a similar piece to fit the entire torso.^[2] And so for McQueen's Autumn/Winter 1999 catwalk show, The Overlook, Leane created the Coiled Corset, a form-encasing bodice created from coils of aluminum.^[11][12][14] Artist Kees van der Graaf created a concrete cast of the body of model Laura Morgan, around which Leane created a metal corset inspired by the neck rings worn by Ndebele women.^[12] Leane has since called the piece his highlight in working with McQueen,^[11] and his most challenging project.^[15] He spent 16 hours a day for 10 straight weeks creating it.^[2][16]

For the 2001 Autumn/Winter show What a Merry Go Round, Leane had to teach himself taxidermy to create earrings of pheasant claws clutching Tahitian pearls. Later, Leane created star and moon headdresses for the Autumn/Winter 2007 show, In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692, inspired by antique vintage Victorian brooches but designed to be worn as headdresses.^[11][17]

Leane and McQueen worked together for over 17 years until McQueen's death in 2010.^[11] Along with Anna Wintour, Suzy Menkes and Annabelle Nielson, Leane gave an address at the memorial service for McQueen on September 20, 2010.^[18] A selection of over 30 pieces Leane created with McQueen were featured in the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2011, later restaged at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 2015.^[8][10][11]

Shaun Leane Jewellery

In 1998, a buyer for Harvey Nichols approached Leane with a view to stocking his first collection. This led to Leane putting together his first commercial collections, which used elements from his work for McQueen.^[4] In 1999, Leane founded Shaun Leane Jewellery, a company producing jewellery collections alongside his large-scale fashion pieces, combining traditional craftsmanship with modern design and computer-aided design techniques.^[6][19] His designs are sold online and at retailers in Britain, Europe, the Middle East and the United States.^[17] Shaun Leane collections include Entwined, Signature Tusk and Cherry Blossom.^[3][11]

Leane's signature style fuses his traditional goldsmith skills with the world of fashion. He takes inspiration from the art and fashion worlds, from history and nature, from romance in literature and poetry, combining his traditional goldsmith skills and early days restoring antiques from the Art Deco and Victorian periods with a fashion slant from his years working with McQueen.^[19] Sotheby's described his jewellery as "antiques of the future."^[20]

Leane has worked with Givenchy, Boucheron, De Beers, Bacardi and Clé de Peau Beauté.^{[5][6][21][22]} Shaun Leane Jewellery has been acquired for the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York,^[23] the Victoria and Albert Museum in London,^[24] and the Fashion Museum, Bath. His fine jewellery has been worn by celebrities and artists including Björk, Daphne Guinness, Sam Taylor-Johnson, Elton John, Emma Watson, Kate Moss, Sarah Jessica Parker, Kate Middleton and the Hassanal Bolkiah.^{[3][15][19][25]}

Collaborations and commissions

Leane collaborated with Boucheron on a necklace for the label's 150th anniversary in 2008. The necklace has delicate, blackened gold flowers set with white and brown diamonds and sapphires, which can open and close with hidden buttons. It was unveiled at a party at the Boucheron store in Mayfair, London.^[21]

Leane was commissioned by Daphne Guinness to create Contra Mundum, also known simply as The Glove, a hand-crafted evening glove crafted from 1,000 grams of 18-carat white gold and set with 5,000 pave white diamonds. The Glove was presented by Jay Jopling in its debut at a private party in London in 2011.^[26][27][28] It took Leane five years to create.^[28] Contra Mundum was the inspiration behind the glove worn by The Countess (portrayed by Lady Gaga) in the FX horror anthology series American Horror Story: Hotel. Gaga was photographed wearing the original glove alongside Guinness on the cover of the January 2016 issue of V magazine.^[29]

In 2011, Leane began working with jewellery house Asprey on two new collections, released in May 2012: The Woodland Collection, a series of nature-inspired fine charm jewellery, and The Fern Collection, a series of emerald, diamond and platinum rings, earrings and necklaces inspired by ferns.^[22] A charms necklace from the Woodland Collection was worn by Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge.^[25]

In 2014, SHOWstudio presented SHOWcabinet, the first major exhibition of Leane's work.^[19][30] It was held in gallery space owned by the photographer Nick Knight in 2014.^[10] Leane created a butterfly brooch, which was displayed alongside a painting from Damien Hirst's butterfly painting series; feather hoop earrings displayed alongside a Philip Treacy hat; and an Aurora ring, inspired by the blues and greens of the aurora borealis, with bands of diamonds symbolizing shards of light crossing through, displayed alongside the work of light sculptor Ahn Chulyhan.^[19]

Leane worked with Austrian cut lead glass producer Atelier Swarovski to create the 2015 nine-piece jewelry collection Swift.^[31]

Ben Rowe

Ben Rowe worked alongside Leane from 1999 onwards, designing collections, commissions and bespoke pieces for the brand. He was named Creative Director in 2011. Rowe left Shaun Leane in December 2016 to take on a new role as Design Director (Fashion) at Tiffany & Co.^[32]