Asprey

Asprey International Limited
Privately held company
Industry Luxury goods
Fate Demerged from Garrard (2002)
Predecessor Asprey & Garrard Limited
Founded Mitcham, Surrey (1781 (1781))
Founder William Asprey
Headquarters London, United Kingdom
Number of locations
 9 points of sale
Area served
  • United Kingdom
  • United States
  • Switzerland
  • Japan
Key people
 John Rigas (CEO)
Products Jewellery, leather goods, handbags, timepieces, silver, china, crystal
Website asprey.com
Asprey store on New Bond Street

Asprey International Limited, formerly Asprey & Garrard Limited, is a United Kingdom-based designer, manufacturer and retailer of jewellery, silverware, home goods, leather goods, timepieces and a retailer of books.

Asprey's flagship retail store is located on New Bond Street in London, United Kingdom. Asprey has supplied crowns, coronets and sceptres for royal families around the world and, as of 2013, held a Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales.

From 1996 to 1998, Asprey held a partnership with Ferrari's Formula 1 team.

History

Foundation

Asprey was established in England in Mitcham, Surrey, in 1781. Founded as a silk printing business by William Asprey, it soon became a luxury emporium. In 1841, William Asprey's elder son Charles went into partnership with a stationer located on London's Bond Street. In 1847, the family broke with this partner and moved into 167 New Bond Street, the premises Asprey occupies today.

From its central London location, Asprey advertised 'articles of exclusive design and high quality, whether for personal adornment or personal accompaniment and to endow with richness and beauty the table and homes of people of refinement and discernment.' An early speciality was dressing cases. Asprey crafted traditional cases and designs, mostly in leather, suitable for the new style of travel ushered in by railways. The main competitors at the time were H.J. Cave & Sons. Asprey was recognised for its expertise when it won a gold medal for its dressing cases at the International Exhibition of 1862, but it lost out to its rivals, H.J. Cave & Sons, in 1867.

The company consolidated its position through acquisitions. In 1859, Asprey absorbed Edwards, an award winning maker of dressing cases and holder of a Royal Warrant. The company also purchased the Alfred Club at 22 Albemarle Street, which backed on to the New Bond Street store and meant that Asprey now had entrances on two of London's most fashionable streets.[1]

20th century

As the business grew, the company acquired manufacturing facilities and hired silversmiths, goldsmiths, jewellers and watchmakers including Ernest Betjeman, the father of the distinguished poet John Betjeman, one of the most highly regarded craftsman and designers of his day. In the 1920s, commissions poured in from around the world, from American millionaire J. Pierpont Morgan to potentates such as the Maharaja of Patiala, who commissioned a huge teak travelling trunk for each of his wives, in which each trunk was fitted with solid silver washing and bathing utensils with waterspouts of ornate tiger head and lined with blue velvet. Asprey cigarette cases became collectable amongst young sophisticates who delighted in its other modern products, including travel clocks, safety razors and automatic pencil sharpeners.[2]

Key dates

  • 1781 Asprey begins trading as William Asprey in Mitcham, Surrey[1]
  • 1847 Asprey flagship store opens on New Bond Street, London[1]
  • 1851 Asprey receives an 'Honourable Mention' at the Great Exhibition for their lady's dressing case with 'Annie' cipher.[3]
  • 1862 First Royal Warrant granted by Queen Victoria[1]
  • 1889 Edward VII grants the second Royal Warrant to Asprey[2]
  • 1925 HM Queen Mary commissions a necklace, later given to HRH Princess Margaret on the occasion of her 18th birthday[4]
  • 1930 Maharaja of Patiala commissions five trunks, one for each of his five wives[5]
  • 1973 Bespoke chess set is commissioned for Ringo Starr's birthday[6]
  • 1975 Asprey received the Queen's Award to Industry by Queen Elizabeth[7]
  • 1990 Asprey and Garrard merge[8]
  • 2002 Asprey and Garrard split[9][10]
  • 2004 Lord Foster of Thames Bank redesigns the flagship store in New Bond Street, London[11]
  • 2006 Asprey celebrates its 225th anniversary and is granted a coat of arms by the English College of Arms[12]
  • 2006 Sciens Capital Management and Plainfield Asset Management purchase the brand[13]
  • 2009 Asprey becomes the official jewellery sponsor of The Orange British Academy Film Awards[14]
  • 2012 Katie Hillier creates new autumn/winter collection[15]
  • 2012 Asprey collaborates with light artist Chris Levine to create The Diamond Queen for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee[16]
  • 2012 May – New York based Luxury Institute ranks Asprey in the top two luxury brands for 2012
  • 2014 Bovet 1822 join Asprey's Timepiece portfolio [17]
  • 2015 Asprey becomes an official retailer of Rolex Watches, London [18]
  • 2016 Asprey becomes the official Jewellery sponsor of The Olivier Awards [19]
  • 2017 Opening of Asprey at Takashimaya Osaka and Sunmotoyama Ginza, Japan [20]
  • 2017 Celebration of the twenty year anniversary of the Asprey Boutique, Beverly Hills Hotel [21]
  • 2018 Asprey launches the Beverly Hills Collection [22][23]

Products

Jewellery

Asprey has a tradition of producing jewellery inspired by the blooms found in English gardens and Woodland Flora. Over the decades jewelled interpretations of flowers have evolved to include Daisy, Woodland and sunflower collections.[24][25] Asprey offers an unrivalled collection of Coloured Diamonds, based upon three criteria: quality, scarcity and beauty. Asprey has been offering coloured diamonds since the 19th century. Originally considered the preserve of Royal Houses and Maharajas, coloured diamonds have gained in awareness in the past few years. As they are occasionally auctioned, the world has the opportunity to have a glimpse at their rare beauty. The latest Cosmic Collection [26] is Asprey's first foray into space age designs began with the introduction of Asprey's rocket cocktail shaker. Inspired by discovery and the mystery of outer space, the collection articulates the beauty of the planets, galaxies, and stars, creating a beautiful celestial collection connecting a rich and authentic history to current culture and innovation.

Asprey cut

The master diamond cutter Gabi Tolkowsky created the Asprey cut. The cushion cut gave Tolkowsky options for incorporating the Asprey "A" inscription around the edges of the stone. The result was the 61-facet Asprey cut, maximising light refraction to brilliant effect. Carat weights of Asprey-cut diamonds range from 0.50 to 3. Asprey-cut diamonds are inscribed on one side of the cushion with the GIA certificate number and with four distinctive 'A's on the other. It is also the only diamond that has the letter "A" on the crown; the Asprey cut has a flower in the centre to create softness. The shape of the Asprey cut means that the cutting process can be done only by hand, unlike many other stones that involve machine cutting.[27]

Leather goods

Asprey's handbag collections have long been a part of Asprey's heritage, created from exotic leathers, a symbol of prestige and at the apex of luxury. Iconic styles are often reimagined each season, creating them in bold, contrasting and often innovative finishes. Details such as handles, locks and clasps are sewn by hand and expertly applied and secured with fine colour matched thread to suit the kid suede lining in a contrast colour to outer skin. The latest collection is the Beverly Hills collection, inspired by the 20th anniversary of the Boutique at the Beverly Hills Hotel, Los Angeles [28] It can take over 75 hours to fully assemble an Asprey handbag, combining several complex techniques mastered by experts in their fields. The men's collection includes wallets, cardholders and travel watch cases crafted from a plethora of skins, of the finest quality. Other items include the briefcases and backgammon boards.

Silver

Asprey offers classic and whimsical contemporary silver pieces – such as the saltcellar fashioned to look like a cement mixer or the wheel barrow salt holder with accompanying shovel spoon. Famed for their unique Barware offering, Asprey is the modern day destination for impressive cocktail shakers with the introduction of the latest superb designs; the Rocket, Aeroplane and Lighthouse – and more recently the Racing Car and Pagoda cocktail shaker additions. All the shakers made by Asprey today are in precious hallmarked sterling ensuring they are even more desirable and collectable than the highly sought-after original silver plated shakers of the 1930's. Asprey also produce children's gifts, including tooth boxes, picture frames and rattles.[29]

Trophies

Asprey have designed and manufactured sporting trophies, including the Race To Dubai trophy[30] and the Dubai World Championship (DWC) trophy. In addition, Asprey is responsible for crafting the ICC cricket trophies, Wimbledon championship runner-up and winner's salvers, the Arab Club Champions Cup trophy as well as the FA Cup trophy and medals.[31][32][33]

Books

The Asprey fine and rare book tradition evolved from the early 1900s when small compendia of reference books were produced. However, it was not until the Second World War, when raw materials were in such short supply, that Asprey began to offer second-hand and antiquarian books. Following the war, this practice was further developed to include a range of books, old and new, that were bound by Asprey, thus augmenting the company's tradition in leather goods. Today, Asprey offers a range of first and limited editions, many in their original bindings and some if appropriate, in leather bindings customised by Asprey.[34][35]

Asprey Polo

Previously known as Argosy, Asprey Polo has developed products for player and pony. The range includes boots, saddles, bridles, helmets and mallets and is available from Asprey Polo. Asprey has a history in polo, sponsoring teams and creating trophies for polo tournaments. It sponsored a 40-goal team in the Argentine Open in 1996, winning the Championship and reaching the final in 1997.[36]

Bespoke and master craftsmanship

Asprey's workshops are above the store allowing repairs and alterations to be completed while a customer waits. Five floors above the showrooms of the New Bond Street store are workshops where classic skills are employed by silversmiths, goldsmiths, jewellers, leatherworkers, engravers and watchmakers.[37]

Asprey will go to any length to meet a customer's requirements. The firm's craftsmen actually made a silver-gilt sandwich. They toasted three slices of bread in their workshop, fried the eggs, broiled the bacon, assembled the sandwich, made a mould, and cast it. It now sits on the desk of a Texan millionaire.[38] The motto is 'It Can be Done'.

"The Diamond Queen"

To mark Queen Elizabeth II's Diamond Jubilee, Asprey partnered with light artist Chris Levine to create a new work based upon his 2004 portrait "Equanimity", commissioned by The Jersey Heritage Trust in 2004. This new work is entitled "The Diamond Queen".

Asprey re-created the Queen's diamond diadem, worn at the Coronation in 1953. One thousand white diamonds are being set in platinum by Asprey craftsmen and overlaid onto the original three-dimensional image of Her Majesty to create the luminescent installation.[39]

Royal patronage

In 1862, Asprey was granted a Royal Warrant by Queen Victoria. The Prince of Wales, later to be crowned Edward VII, granted another Royal Warrant. At the time of Edward VII's funeral, an Asprey member of staff remembered, practically all the ruling heads of state were there, and many of them came to Asprey, you might have seen three or four of them at one time. In 1953, for the coronation of Elizabeth II, Asprey paid homage with the Asprey Coronation Year Gold Collection, which featured a dessert, coffee and liqueur service in 18-carat gold and weighed almost 27 pounds. In April 1953, it went on show in the New Bond Street store and subsequently toured the United States.[2]

Asprey in film

Asprey designed the Heart of the Ocean necklace that was featured in the 1997 James Cameron blockbuster Titanic.[40] Asprey has featured in a number of films:

In 2009, Asprey became the official jewellery sponsor of The Orange British Academy Film Awards and continues this partnership today.[43] Asprey collaborated with screen stars, Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt to create the Asprey's Protector Collection of fine jewellery for both children and adults in 2009.[44]

Corporate

Asprey continues to trade as a luxury goods house, active in market such as the USA and Japan. According to a survey of US high-net-worth consumers polled for the Luxury Institute's 2012 Luxury Brand Status Index, Asprey was ranked among the top two of international fine jewellery brands, able to deliver true luxury.[45] In March 2006, Sciens Capital Management, the US private equity firm, bought Asprey. "This is a historic luxury brand, and that is part of our reason for acquiring it," said chairman John Rigas, following the purchase from Lawrence Stroll, Silas Chou (of Sportswear Holdings Ltd) and Edgar Bronfman Jr.[46]

Subsequently, Rigas has re-focused the business to concentrate on flagships and stand alone stores in key international locations. In 2009, Hermés, the French luxury fashion house, made a property investment purchasing the freehold of the New Bond Street shop that Asprey occupies. However, Asprey holds a 31-year lease on the premises and continues to remain in the space.[47][48]

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 "Timeline". Asprey London. Asprey London Limited. 2012. Archived from the original on 17 January 2013. Retrieved 22 December 2012.
  2. 1 2 3 "The British Standard Since 1781". Asprey. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  3. ↑ "Official Descriptive And Illustrated Catalogue Of The Great Exhibition Of The Works Of Industry Of All Nations 1851".
  4. ↑ "Princess Margarets 5-Row Art Deco Pearl and Diamond Necklace". Internetstones.com. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  5. ↑ "The British Standard Since 1781". Asprey. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  6. ↑ "Luxury is an everyday affair at Asprey in 167 New Bond Street, London". Luxos. Luxos.com. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  7. ↑ "Asprey". Hancocks & Co. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  8. ↑ "Asprey & Garrard – Luxury for a New Millennium (繁体)". RapNet.com. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  9. ↑ Alexander, Fashion Editor, Hilary (21 September 2001). "Asprey & Garrard go separate ways". Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  10. ↑ "PR Newswire UK: Asprey demerges from Garrard to become the ultimate authentic British luxury lifestyle House" (Press release). Prnewswire.co.uk. 19 April 2002. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  11. ↑ redboxmedia.com. "Asprey Store, Bond Street | Projects | Foster + Partners". Fosterandpartners.com. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  12. ↑ "Asprey Celebrates 225 Years of British Luxury Opening New Flagship on Madison Avenue. – Free Online Library" (Press release). Thefreelibrary.com. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  13. ↑ Conti, Samantha (20 March 2006). "ASPREY AND GARRARD SOLD TO PRIVATE-EQUITY FIRMS. (Sciens Capital Management LLC, Plainfield Asset Management LLC)". WWD. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  14. ↑ "Asprey named as Bafta jewellery sponsor". Retail Jeweller. 27 January 2009. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  15. ↑ "Katie Hillier Asprey Bags – Designer Bag Collection (Vogue.com UK)". Vogue.co.uk. 3 May 2012. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  16. ↑ "Asprey Jubilee Diadem – Christopher Levine (Vogue.com UK)". Vogue.co.uk. 23 May 2012. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  17. ↑ https://www.bovet.com/boutiques/
  18. ↑ https://www.rolex.com/rolex-dealers/dealer-locator/retailers/asprey
  19. ↑ https://officiallondontheatre.com/olivier-awards/news/asprey-partners-with-olivier-awards-356499/
  20. ↑ https://www.countryandtownhouse.co.uk/brands-guide/asprey/
  21. ↑ https://www.dorchestercollection.com/en/moments/asprey-collection-inspired-beverly-hills-hotel/
  22. ↑ https://www.fashionfoiegras.com/2018/01/introducing-aspreys-beverly-hills-hotel.html
  23. ↑ http://www.harpersbazaar.com.sg/fashion/bazaar-loves-fashion-find-of-the-day-2018/?slide=50
  24. ↑ http://www.asprey.com/collection/jewellery/woodland
  25. ↑ http://www.asprey.com/collection/jewellery/sunflower
  26. ↑ http://www.asprey.com/collection/jewellery/cosmic/cosmic-collection
  27. ↑ "Asprey Cut Diamonds Shape: Diamond Source of Virginia Loose Diamonds Education". Diamondsourceva.com. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  28. ↑ http://www.asprey.com/collection/handbags/the-beverly-hills-collection
  29. ↑ Archived 21 November 2008 at the Wayback Machine.
  30. ↑ http://corporate.asprey.cat/bespoke/trophies/race-to-dubai-trophy/658%5Bpermanent+dead+link%5D
  31. ↑ https://web.archive.org/web/20091010005135/http://www.businessweekly.co.uk/2008102332692/barclays/barclays-premier-league-trophy-visits-cambridge.html. Archived from the original on 10 October 2009. Retrieved 13 September 2010. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  32. ↑ "Trophies". Asprey. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  33. ↑ "Arab Club Champions Cup trophy". Union of Arab Football Associations. 24 April 2018. Retrieved 4 May 2018.
  34. ↑ "Leather | Handbags | Travel Leather | Leather Goods | Coin Purses | Leather Wallets". Asprey. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  35. ↑ "Books". Asprey. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  36. ↑ "Asprey Polo". Aspreypolo.com. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  37. ↑ "Special Commissions". Asprey. Archived from the original on 4 October 2013. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  38. ↑ Hiller, B. (1981) Asprey of Bond Street pg 114–115
  39. ↑ "The Diamond Queen". Asprey. 29 May 2012. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  40. ↑ "CROWN JEWELLER, ASPREY & GARRARD, LONDON, CREATOR OF THE TITANIC NECKLACE, SECURES 1999 OSCAR NOMINEES" (Press release). Prnewswire.co.uk. 22 March 1999. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  41. ↑ "Confessions of a Shopaholic Facts". Femalefirst.co.uk. 18 February 2009. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  42. ↑ "YouTube". YouTube. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  43. ↑ "The British Standard Since 1781". Asprey. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  44. ↑ O'Reilly, Kelly (16 November 2009). "Brangelina Designs "The Protector" for Asprey". NBC New York. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  45. ↑ "News Release: Wealthy U.S. Consumers Rate the Most Prestigious Luxury Jewelry Brands « The Knowledge of Luxury" (Press release). Blog.luxuryinstitute.com. 21 April 2010. Archived from the original on 4 October 2013. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  46. ↑ brand madison-forbes-life-cx hp 1204asprey.html
  47. ↑ Mathiason, Nick (27 September 2009). "Hermès pays £75m for Asprey's Bond Street store". The Observer. Retrieved 1 October 2013.
  48. ↑ https://howtospendit.ft.com/watches-jewellery/19223-heirlooms-apparent

Further reading

Coordinates: 51°30′36″N 0°08′33″W / 51.51000°N 0.14250°W / 51.51000; -0.14250

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