La Dura Dura

La Dura Dura
Location Oliana, Spain
Coordinates 42°04′40″N 1°17′16″E / 42.07778°N 1.28778°E / 42.07778; 1.28778 [1]
Climbing Area Oliana
Route Type Sport climbing
Vertical Gain 50 metres (160 ft) [2]
Pitches 1
Grade 9b+
First free ascent Adam Ondra 2013

La Dura Dura ("The hardest of the hard") is the world's second sport climb graded at 9b+ (5.15c), and the first to be repeated. Located on a limestone cliff in Oliana, Spain, it was first bolted by Chris Sharma in 2009 and redpointed by Adam Ondra on February 7, 2013. Sharma succeeded about a month later on March 23 2013 and confirmed the grade.[3]

The climb is notable for the friendly rivalry that it provoked between Ondra and Sharma, with Sharma (then 31) established as the strongest sport climber in the world, and Ondra (20) seen as the first of a new generation.[4] By the time Sharma introduced Ondra to the climb he doubted that he would ever complete it himself, and also knew that Ondra was likewise searching for routes of extreme difficulty to challenge himself. They worked the route together for around a year and a half, with Ondra succeeding in February 2013, and Sharma stating that he found himself inspired by Ondra's intense focus, succeeding about a month later.[5]

The Climb

Ondra describes the climb as consisting of three sections:

  • A crimpy lower sequence of boulders (V9, V9, V12, V11) over 10m
  • A hard middle section with a kneebar break (5.14c) over 10m
  • An easier upper section (5.13d) to the top over 20m [6]

References

  1. ↑ "Climbing Areas - Oliana". Climbing Away. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  2. ↑ "Oliana". TheCrag. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  3. ↑ "Chris Sharma, the La Dura Dura interview". Planet Mountain. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  4. ↑ "La Dura Dura". Reel Rock S1E1. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  5. ↑ Andrew Bisharat. "Perfect Play: What it took to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c) - The World's Hardest Route". Rock and Ice. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  6. ↑ Amanda Fox. "Ondra Talks About La Dura Dura (5.15c)". Climbing.com. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
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