Gabriela Hearst

Gabriela Hearst
Born Gabriela Perezutti
(1976-11-03) November 3, 1976
Residence New York City
Nationality Uruguayan / American
Awards
* Woolmark 2016 Womenswear USA * Woolmark 2017 Womenswear International * Pratt Institute 2018 Pratt Fashion Visionary Award

Gabriela Hearst (née Perezutti) (born November 3, 1976) is a Uruguayan born, New York based, women's luxury Ready-to-wear and accessories designer. In addition to designing her namesake collection, she runs and operates her family's ranch in Uruguay.[1]

Early life and education

Hearst grew up on her family's ranch in Uruguay.[2] She attended The British School of Montevideo[3] and graduated from the Universidad ORT Uruguay with a B.A. in communications.[4] In her early 20s, after a short period in Paris, she moved to New York to study Performing Arts at the Neighborhood Playhouse School of Theatre.[1]

Career

In 2004 she started Candela in Brooklyn, with $700.[5][6] The collection was made of t-shirts with silkscreened illustrations[7] of a winged woman on top of a horse (based on a photo of her mother). In 2006 the collection expanded to ready-to-wear and shoes.[6]

After eleven years working in design, Hearst became a member of the CFDA[8] in 2012.

In Fall 2015 Hearst launched her eponymous label—Gabriela Hearst.[1] The brand has been compared as an American competitor to Hermès[9] for its high-quality and fine use of garments.[10] The collections are characterized by quality craftsmanship,[11] high-end[2] and innovative materials,[12][13] such as the anti-radiation fabric that shields against the radiation emitted by mobile phones—introduced in the Resort 2017 collection as lining for the jacket pockets,[9] or the ultra-fine 14.5 micron merino wool[13] and the aloe-treated linen introduced in the Resort 18 collection—a sustainable and utilitarian process that instantly soften the linen and give the fabric the property to moisturize the skin.[14] Also the production is very attentive to the environment[13] and sustainability,[15] including the use of wool coming from Hearst sheep farm in Uruguay, an end-to-end production cycle that helps minimizing the environmental impact.[14] Hearst is also the first brand that make use of Tipa compostable bio-plastics for all their packaging[16] — an Israeli startup that is developing a flexible alternative to plastic that can be thrown into compost to decompose in 24 weeks.[17]

Her line's first bag was the Nina Bag (named after Nina Simone)[15] which started as a limited edition of 20[18] that Hearst gave to women she admired—some of them high-profile like Miroslava Duma and Brie Larson[19] as well as to women she enjoyed collaborating with, such as the owner of the factory or the shoe developer.[15] The bag now has an extensive waiting list.[18][20]

In January 2016 Hearst was included in the "Ten of Tomorrow" by Women's Wear Daily (WWD).[2]

On February 14, 2017[21] Gabriela Hearst presented its first runway show at the Refectory of the High Line Hotel.[13] The Angela Davis inspired collection[22] while luxurious, had a non wasteful approach.[13] The catwalk show was aimed at minimizing the environmental waste through a no-plastic policy,[23] furnished with pews and chairs borrowed from her home and office. Cashmere pillows for guests were knitted by the non-profit organization Manos del Uruguay from excess yarn from her previous collection[24] and seven sets of clothes were made with existing fabrics and materials.[13]

On September 9, 2017 Gabriela Hearst was added to the Business of Fashion BOF500 2017—the professional index of the people shaping the global fashion industry.

Supporters

Hearst's collections have been supported by a number of celebrities and influencers, including Gillian Anderson,[25] Victoria Beckam,[26] Laura Dern,[27] Miroslava Duma,[28] Lena Dunham,[29] Dakota Fanning,[30] Selena Gomez,[31] Gugu Mbatha-Raw,[32] Anne Hathaway,[33] Rebecca Hall,[34] Naomi Harris,[35] Lauren Hutton,[36] Gwen Jorgesen,[37] Mindy Kaling,[38] Anna Kendrick,[39] Nicole Kidman,[40] Brie Larson,[41] Demi Moore,[19] Emma Stone,[42] Vanessa Traina,[43] Alicia Vikander,[44] Emma Watson,[45] Allison Williams,[46] Renee Zellweger[47] and more.

Collaborations

For the Fall 2016 collection she partnered with Manos del Uruguay, a non-profit organization that pays living wages to craftswoman who handmade the tweeds using wool from her farm.[48]

In April 2016 she collaborated with Peter Miles on the design of signature socks used as a parting gift for guests at the annual gala of The Paris Review.[49][50]

In 2017 Hearst collaborated with an Italian mill[13] to produce cloth for fine wool suiting from merino wool from her ranch.[51]

In March 2017 the store Le Bon Marché offered Hearst a space to open her first pop-up shop during Paris Fashion Week.[52]

Following the "no waste" approach of her Fall 17 collection, Hearst collaborated with Swarovski[53] who donated stock crystals used on limited-edition starry-night-sky velvet slipdresses in runway looks during New York Fashion Week.[22][23]

For the Met Gala 2017 Hearst collaborated with Laura Dern on the design of a modern gown with geometric cutouts and a removable polka dot train to honor the Comme des Garçons style.[27]

Philanthropy

In June 2016 she started a collaboration with Tod's to update their classic slip-on sneaker with a men's brogue detail in Morse code that reads "love"[54]—twenty percent of proceeds went to Save the Children.[55][56] To promote the project Gabriela Hearst organized a portrait project featuring Dakota Fanning, Miroslava Duma, Lindsey Adelman, Lauren Hutton and the Save the Children donor Dorrit Morley and member Zaineb Malick.[55]

In May 2017 Hearst produced a 100 pieces limited edition sweater called Ram Ovaries. The design is a representation of strength symbolized by the use of woman's reproductive system and ram's horn. The profits from the sales were used to support Planned Parenthood.[57]

In July 2017 upon learning that east Africa was facing its worst drought in 70 years, designer Gabriela Hearst visited rural Turkana County, Kenya with Save the Children President & CEO Carolyn Miles. In October 2017 Hearst partnered with Net-a-Porter and Bergdorf Goodman to raise awareness about the humanitarian crisis by making her handbag collection available to the public for the first time.[58] For one week only, bags were available for direct purchase online and at the Bergdorf Goodman store in New York. Gabriela Hearst pledged a donation of $600,000 to Save the Children to give more than 1000 families of the Turkana region the ability to buy food, water and livestock to help them survive the drought.[59]

In September 2018, following several philanthropic campaigns, Hearst started serving on the Save the Children's Board of Trustees.[60][61]

Awards

Year Awarding Organization Category Result Ref
2016 Woolmark Womenswear USA Prize Final Won [62]
2017 Woolmark Womenswear International Prize Won [63]
2017 CFDA Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent Nominated [64]
2018 Pratt Institute's Pratt Fashion Visionary Award Won [65]
2018 CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Nominated [66]

Retail

Hearst is currently sold at over 50 retailers in several countries, including Forty Five Ten,[7] Le Bon Marchè,[52] Net-a-Porter,[20] The Line,[2] Bergdorf Goodman,[67] Selfridges,[67] Matches Fashion,[68] Boon the Shop,[13] Lane Crawford,[63] and others.

Personal life

Gabriela Perezutti married "Austin" John Augustine Hearst in 2013. She currently lives in Manhattan, with her husband and their children.[1]

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 Hass, Nancy (2016-08-16). "Gabriela Hearst at Home, in Uruguay". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2017-04-16.
  2. 1 2 3 4 Iredale, Jessica (2016-01-20). "Ten of Tomorrow: Gabriela Hearst". WWD. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  3. ↑ Elliott, Lucinda (2016-07-15). "From ranch girl to fashion designer: Gabriela Perezutti Hearst". Financial Times.
  4. ↑ "GABRIELA HEARST | Positive Luxury". www.positiveluxury.com. Retrieved 2017-04-27.
  5. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst: Farm to Label - SURFACE". www.surfacemag.com. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  6. 1 2 "The Fashionable Life - Designer Gabriela Perezutti of Candela". Harper's BAZAAR. 2012-10-03. Retrieved 2017-05-01.
  7. 1 2 Karimzadeh, Marc (2016-02-11). "Two Woman's Designer: Gabriela Hearst". CFDA.
  8. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst". CFDA.
  9. 1 2 Phelps, Nicole. "Gabriela Hearst Resort 2017 Fashion Show". Vogue. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  10. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst: glamour gaucho en la elite de la moda". El Observador (in Spanish). Retrieved 2017-04-27.
  11. ↑ "Rosie Assoulin, Gabriela Hearst and Rosetta Getty: the US women designing for themselves". The Telegraph. Retrieved 2017-04-30.
  12. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst Wins Woolmark's AU$100,000 Womenswear Prize". Vogue. Retrieved 2017-04-16.
  13. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 "Gabriela Hearst: from cattle to catwalk". Vogue.com.au. 2017-04-20. Retrieved 2017-04-21.
  14. 1 2 "Gabriela Hearst's Aloe Linen and Sunad's Milk Protein Shirts Are Good for the Earth and Your Skin - Vogue". Vogue. Retrieved 2017-06-27.
  15. 1 2 3 "Gabriela Hearst". becauselondon.com. Retrieved 2017-04-21.
  16. ↑ "TIPA CLOSES $11M SERIES B FINANCING - Tipa". Tipa. 2017-10-02. Retrieved 2018-04-16.
  17. ↑ Whitney, Christine. "The Designer and Rancher on a Mission to Make Fashion Green". The Cut. Retrieved 2018-04-16.
  18. 1 2 "You Can't Buy This Bag in a Store or Online, But It Has a Waitlist 100 Names Long". Vogue. Retrieved 2017-03-28.
  19. 1 2 "The $2600 handbag everyone wants". Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  20. 1 2 Bourne, Leah (2016-11-05). "This fortune-cookie handbag has a mile-long waiting list". New York Post. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  21. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2017 New York". NOWFASHION. Retrieved 2017-05-01.
  22. 1 2 Iredale, Jessica (2017-02-14). "Gabriela Hearst RTW Fall 2017". WWD. Retrieved 2017-04-27.
  23. 1 2 Ellison, Jo (2017-02-15). "Gabriela Hearst debuts on the New York show schedule with a smart new take on luxury". Financial Times.
  24. ↑ Magazine, Wallpaper* (2017-02-15). "Gabriela Hearst A/W 2017 | Fashion | Wallpaper* Magazine". Wallpaper*. Retrieved 2017-04-16.
  25. ↑ Ferla, Ruth La (2016-04-27). "Gillian Anderson as a Fashion Inspiration". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  26. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst Takes Home the Woolmark Prize, Still Doesn't Feel Like She's "Made it"". ELLE. 2017-01-24. Retrieved 2017-04-21.
  27. 1 2 "Getting Ready for the 2017 Met Gala With Big Little Lies's Laura Dern". Vogue. Retrieved 2017-05-03.
  28. ↑ "The best bags and shoes spotted at New York Fashion Week". The Telegraph. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  29. ↑ Cusumano, Katherine. "Lena Dunham Nails the #ImWithHer Look". W Magazine. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  30. ↑ "See Dakota Fanning's Stunning Portrait in Support of Tod's and Gabriela Hearst's New Charitable Brogue". InStyle.com. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  31. ↑ Spronk, Kiera. "Selena Gomez's best looks | Elle Canada". Elle Canada. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  32. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst And Gugu Mbatha-Raw 2016 MET Gala | The Window". The Window. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  33. ↑ "Go Inside the Hottest Party of #TIFF 2016: InStyle + HFPA's Star-Studded Annual Bash!". InStyle.com. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  34. ↑ Staff, WWD (2016-12-01). "Gabriela Hearst Luncheon in Celebration of Rebecca Hall". WWD. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  35. ↑ Colon, Ana. "Naomie Harris Went To Great (& Uncomfortable) Lengths To Avoid Wrinkling Her Armani Gown". Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  36. ↑ "Fashionable Friends: Lauren Hutton and Gabriela Hearst". Harper's BAZAAR. 2015-09-25. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  37. ↑ Iredale, Jessica (2015-11-12). "Gabriela Hearst Hosts Girl-Power Lunch". WWD. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  38. ↑ "Yahoo7 Lifestyle: Fashion and Beauty, Healthy Living, Parenting, Love and Sex, Food, Horoscopes and more". Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  39. ↑ "Blue Velvet from Anna Kendrick's Best Looks". E! Online. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  40. ↑ "Nicole Kidman reunites with her To Die For director and co-star". Mail Online. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  41. ↑ "Brie Larson in Gabriela Hearst - Foto - Grazia.it". Grazia (in Italian). Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  42. ↑ "Gli outfit più belli di Emma Stone per La La Land". Gioia!. 2017-02-05. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  43. ↑ "Dakota Fanning, Gabriela Hearst, Vanessa Traina, and More Toast the Holidays at The Line". Vogue. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  44. ↑ "Alicia Vikander is pretty as a picture in semi-sheer floral dress". Mail Online. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  45. ↑ "10 Sustainable Brands That Emma Watson Loves". Harper's Bazaar Singapore. 2017-04-20. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  46. ↑ "Allison-Williams in Gabriela Hearst getty - Foto - Grazia.it". Grazia (in Italian). Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  47. ↑ "Renee Zellweger flaunts slender figure at Bridget Jones's Baby event". Mail Online. Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  48. ↑ "Fashion - American designers Rochambeau and Gabriela Hearst join International Woolmark Prize final | Merino.com". Retrieved 2017-04-16.
  49. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst Archives – The Paris Review". The Paris Review. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  50. ↑ Feitelberg, Rosemary (2016-03-15). "Gabriela Hearst and Peter Miles Lending Design Talents to The Paris Review's Gala". WWD. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  51. ↑ "WOOL - IWP 2016/17 Finalists — Gabriela Hearst". WOOL - IWP 2016/17 Finalists. Retrieved 2017-05-08.
  52. 1 2 Iredale, Jessica (2017-03-02). "Gabriela Hearst Sets Pop-Up at Le Bon Marché". WWD. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  53. ↑ swarovskigroup.com, Swarovski Group -. "NYFW AW 2017 Collaborations - Swarovski Group". www.swarovskigroup.com. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  54. ↑ "TOD'S and Gabriela Hearst Collaborate on Limited Edition 'Love' Shoes to Support Save the Children". Save the Children. Retrieved 2017-04-21.
  55. 1 2 Iredale, Jessica (2016-06-07). "Tod's and Gabriela Hearst Collaborate on 'Love' Shoe". WWD. Retrieved 2017-03-28.
  56. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst, Lauren Hutton, and Rebecca Hall Celebrate Tod's Shoe Collaboration With Save the Children". Vogue. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  57. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst's "Ram-Ovaries" Sweater Benefits Planned Parenthood in a Big Way". Vogue. Retrieved 2017-05-22.
  58. ↑ "Gabriela Hearst Launches The Most Philanthropic Of Flash Sales". www.vogue.co.uk. Retrieved 2017-10-06.
  59. ↑ Coghlan, Claire. "Why Gabriela Hearst Is Staging A Flash Sale To Fight Famine". Forbes. Retrieved 2017-10-06.
  60. ↑ "Leadership and Trustees". Save the Children. Retrieved 2018-09-24.
  61. ↑ "Power Moves | LVMH Head of Watches Steps Down, Marc Cain Names New Management". The Business of Fashion. 2018-09-20. Retrieved 2018-09-24.
  62. ↑ "Rochambeau and Gabriela Hearst win 2016/17 International Woolmark Prize USA final". Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  63. 1 2 "Gabriela Hearst wins 2016/17 womenswear International Woolmark Prize". Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  64. ↑ swarovskigroup.com, Swarovski Group -. "CFDA Nominee Announcement 2017 - Swarovski Group". www.swarovskigroup.com. Retrieved 2017-04-19.
  65. ↑ Feitelberg, Rosemary (2018-03-13). "Gabriela Hearst to Receive Pratt's Fashion Visionary Award for Her Commitment to Sustainability at May 3 Event in New York". WWD. Retrieved 2018-03-15.
  66. ↑ Iredale, Jessica (2018-03-15). "2018 CFDA Awards Nominees Named". WWD. Retrieved 2018-03-19.
  67. 1 2 Horie, Marine de la (2017-03-16). "Gabriela Hearst s'invite au Bon Marché". Le Point (in French). Retrieved 2017-04-20.
  68. ↑ "Style you can slip on". Retrieved 2017-04-20.
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