Billy Reid (fashion designer)

Florence–Muscle Shoals is located in Alabama's Colbert and Lauderdale counties

Billy Reid (born June 13, 1964) is an American fashion designer based in Florence, Alabama.[1][2] His line includes men's, women's, accessories and eyewear. His clothing, self-described as “lived-in luxury”[3] and "broken-in luxury",[4][5] is known for its classic styles in high quality fabrics with unusual accents and Southern influence. Reid summarizes his brand's concept as "American luxury built to last."[6] Billy Reid, Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, and Michael Kors are the only fashion designers who have won 3 or more CFDA Awards.[7]

Early life and education

Reid's hometown, Amite City, Louisiana, had an estimated population of 4,375 in 2015[8]

Reid grew up in Amite, Louisiana,[9] just south of the Mississippi border.[10][11] He helped his mother operate a women’s clothing boutique located in his grandmother’s home.[12] Reid's hobbies included outdoor activities in the surrounding Southeast Louisiana wetlands.[13] Originally wanting to become a football coach during his youth,[14] Reid attended Southeastern Louisiana University and then the Art Institute of Dallas to study fashion design and merchandising. While still at the Art Institute, he started working for Saks Fifth Avenue. After his time at Saks, Reid worked for 6 years at Reebok International, travelling across the globe for the first collections of Australian golfer Greg Norman.[10][15] He later did freelance design for Fruit of the Loom, Neiman Marcus, and J. C. Penney.[10]

Brand

The Muscle Shoals Sound Studio is a major part of the cultural capital of the region

Reid originally launched his men's collection under the William Reid label in March 1998.[16] When Reid started the business in 1998, it was a one-man operation; he lived in the Garment Center, while a room at the Hotel Chelsea served as an office, studio and showroom.[17] The William Reid brand was focused on wholesale account partnerships rather than directly-owned retail stores; the Fred Segal and Stanley Korshak stores were the main wholesale partners (Stanley Korshak also carries Kiton, Isaia, Brioni, Belvest, Brunello Cucinelli, and Ermenegildo Zegna).[18] Reid received the CFDA Best New Menswear Designer award in 2001.[19] The brand held a successful runway show on September 10, 2001,[20] but economic effects arising from the September 11 attacks forced him to close the business in Spring 2002. Reid then moved to Florence, Alabama, his wife's hometown,[21] where she grew up in a household of nine children. Florence is just across the Tennessee River from Muscle Shoals, famous for its recording studio, where The Rolling Stones, Elton John, Willie Nelson, Paul Simon, Bob Dylan, and others have recorded. At the 2010 census, the population of Muscle Shoals was 13,146.[22] The estimated population in 2015 was 13,706.[23]

Reid's post-9/11 business model built up a small namesake chain of shops which reflected his "personality and his aesthetic" - loaded with antiques, family heirlooms and reclaimed architectural materials; they "took on a very personal, warm and hospitable environment."[13] In 2004, Charles Moore, legendary photographer of the Civil Rights Movement,[24] shot the first photos for the brand.[25][26] The first Billy Reid stores opened in 2004 in Dallas and Houston showing menswear only; the women’s collection started in 2007. Wholesale distribution began in 2009. Wholesale still accounts for about half of the brand's revenue. The company headquarters is in Florence, Alabama in a historic bookstore. Downstairs is his flagship shop and upstairs is his design studio. The brand operates 12 directly-owned stores which have an atmosphere of faded elegance: well-worn chairs and carpets, antique chandeliers, mounted animals, and antique apothecary cabinets.[27] Reid has said: "We're based in Alabama and work in New York; It's the balance of those two worlds that our aesthetic is about."[28] Reid cites Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Perry Ellis as influential American designers, and has named Bill Robinson as "one of [his] biggest influences."[29] Vogue noted the brand's "relaxed charm and rolled-up elegance."[30] In early 2017 Observer magazine called Reid "perhaps the most likable player on the American menswear scene."[31] The Washington Post has described Reid's aesthetic as "worn luxury".[32] and W magazine named it "Southern Gentleman sartorialism".[33] Vogue described the Fall 2018 collection as “country luxury.”[34]

In early 2018, Mark Daley became the CEO, joining the brand from Smythson.[35]

Production

The yellow-shafted flicker is the state bird of Alabama,[36] and has been adopted as a motif in the brand

The garments are almost all made in USA and made in Italy,[29] using French, Italian and Japanese fabrics.[37] In May 2012 Billy Reid and Natalie Chanin planted a 7-acre field of organic cotton for use in their clothing lines.[38]

The limited edition Billy Reid eyewear collection was designed in collaboration with Eponym's design team,[39][40][41] and made in Japan. The collection included sunglasses modeled on Reid’s signature personal frames made from sustainable buffalo horn. Design details included leather-wrapped frames, ultra-light titanium nose pads, Italian acetate, and gradient lenses.[42] The eyewear capsule collection debuted in the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Rosenbaum House in August 2017 as part of the annual Billy Reid Shindig,[43][44][45] and 13 styles were delivered to stores in November 2017.[46] The limited-edition buffalo horn frame sunglasses named for Billy and his wife are boxed in wood finished with an ancient Japanese wood-burning technique called yakisugi (焼杉) meaning “burnt cypress”.[47][48] Reid names Michael Caine and Buddy Holly as icons of men’s eyewear style.[49]

Reid names Michael Caine as a men’s style icon in eyewear

Reid has stated that his production philosophy is: "to make less things, better things, more special things, more meaningful things."[50]

The Fall/Winter 2017 collection included shirts with Yellowhammer embroidery, and the bird became a de facto symbol of the brand.[51] As the state bird of Alabama,[36] the subspecies of Colaptes auratus is known by the common name "yellowhammer," a term that originated during the American Civil War to describe soldiers from Alabama.[52] The bird has black and gold striping on its wing that is similar to the Billy Reid Signature Heirloom Ribbon, a black and gold ribbon with a bias stripe.[53]

Clientele

Actor Daniel Craig wore a Billy Reid peacoat in Skyfall in scenes set in Shanghai[54][55]

Actor Daniel Craig purchased the Bond Peacoat at the Billy Reid Nashville store while shopping with Kings of Leon,[29] and a few years later wore it in the 2012 film Skyfall;[56][54] this exposed the brand to a wider audience. [57] The coat was named after Bond Street,[58] the location of the brand's flagship store in New York City.[57] In Spectre, actor Ben Whishaw as Q wore the Billy Reid Astor Coat.[59][60][61] Mike Faist,[62] John T. Edge,[63] Ethan Hawke, and Idris Elba are also fans of the brand.[29] Ryan Gosling wore a Billy Reid topcoat in London while promoting Blade Runner 2049.[64]

Shindig

Jason Isbell performed at Billy Reid Shindig in August 2017[65]
Dan Auerbach performed at the Billy Reid Shindig in August 2018

Reid hosts "a multicultural weekend of fashion, art, food, music & friends" called Shindig,[66][67] which started as an informal gathering of close friends in 2009,[68] and was held for its 8th Alabama summer edition in late summer 2016.[69] That year, attendees included musician Jack White,[70] musician Alison Mosshart of The Kills, model Matthew Mosshart, the band Dawes, Tony Award winning actor Alex Sharp,[71] musician John Paul White and The Watson Twins, jewelry designer Pamela Love, Chef John Currence, Master Brewer Roy Milner of Blackberry Farm Brewery, former Bloomingdales men's fashion director Josh Peskowitz, and designer Natalie Chanin of Alabama Chanin.[69][72]

Shindig No. 9 was held in Muscle Shoals, Alabama on the weekend of August 25–27, 2017.[73] Guests at Shindig No. 9 included Jason Isbell and The 400 Unit,[74] Preservation Hall Jazz Band,[74] Jack White,[74] Ron Gallo, Russ Pollard, Cedric Burnside, Carl Broemel of My Morning Jacket, Del McCoury Band, John Currence,[75] and John T. Edge.[76] At Shindig No. 9, Tesla Motors provided vehicles for Shindig guests to test drive, following Reid's collaboration with Tesla to install an electric car charging station on the campus of University of North Alabama in Florence.[77][78] Former Per Se head sommelier Andre Mack was the wine sponsor for Shindig No. 9, showing his Willamette Valley AVA pinot gris and pinot noir varietals.[79][80]

A Billy Reid Shindig event was also held at Blackberry Farm in Walland, Tennessee on November 16–19, 2017.[81] Grammy award-winning artist and producer, Dan Auerbach performed; James Beard award-winning chef and author Daniel Patterson cooked for the group; and winemaker Russell From of Herman Story Wines in Paso Robles guided a wine tasting.[82] The next Blackberry Farm Shindig will be held in November 2018.[83] Billy Reid Shindig 10 was held in Florence, Alabama on August 24–26, 2018.[84] Kacey Musgraves, Dan Auerbach, and St. Paul and The Broken Bones performed at Shindig 10.[85]

Retail locations

Billy Reid stores typically contain artwork and subtle design details such as the marble risers in this staircase

Dallas and Houston were the first cities in which the brand opened stores, followed a year later by the flagship store in Florence, Alabama. Billy Reid monobrand stores are located in:[86]

In the US the brand is sold in Neiman Marcus,[92] Nordstrom,[93] and Bloomingdale’s.[94] The brand held a month-long pop-up shop in Culver City, California in 2017 inside menswear store Magasin;[95] the popup included Reid's made-to-measure service.

Multi-brand boutiques that carry the brand include Brigade in Cleveland, Ohio; Tenet in Southampton, New York; DLM Supply Co. in Dallas, Texas;[96][97] Sy Devore in Studio City, California; Rothman’s in New York; Carriere in Westlake Village, California; Garmany in Red Bank, New Jersey;[98] Rodes in Louisville, Kentucky; Sebastian’s Closet in Dallas, Texas; Weitzenkorn’s in Pottstown, Pennsylvania and Martin Patrick 3 in Minneapolis, Minnesota.[99]

Outside of the US, the brand is carried at Nordstrom in Canada.[100]

Collaborations

Yakisugi treated wood is used in the boxes for the “William” and “Jeanne” sunglasses[101][102]

Every year the designer produces a limited line of K-Swiss/Billy Reid co-branded sneakers.[103][104][105] While all other Billy Reid shoes are Made in Italy, the K-Swiss co-sign sneakers are entirely made in America;[106][6] they are produced in Batavia, New York in the second-oldest shoe factory in the US.[107] The K-Swiss/Billy Reid co-branded sneakers have been produced since 2011.[108]

Reid, Derek Lam, Reed Krakoff, Simon Doonan, and other fashion industry experts form the advisory board for the Cadillac/CFDA Retail Lab mentorship program,[109][110] which provides a $75,000 grant along with business development, marketing, and PR assistance for six up-and-coming designers annually.[111]

The GunRunner Boutique Hotel in Florence, Alabama has a Billy Reid Suite featuring a ladder and sleeping loft,[112] and is curated with items rotated in and out on a regular basis.[113] As a part of designing the space, Reid personally built the bed for the room.[114]

Billy Reid hosts an Austin Shindig at SXSW Music Festival in Austin, Texas. In 2015, the brand partnered with Third Man Records for the event, which included shows by Natalie Prass, Steve Gunn, Bully, Laura Marling, Broncho, La Luz, Hurray for the Riff Raff, Gill Landry and Olivia Jean.[115]

On March 17, 2016 Reid and Newport Folk Festival hosted Austin Shindig No. 6 during the annual SXSW festival at Weather Up in Austin, Texas. The lineup that year included country music singer Kacey Musgraves, American funk/soul/R&B singer Charles Bradley, and Muscle Shoals native and artist, Dylan Leblanc; American alternative country musician, “Jonny” Fritz was the MC at the event.[116]

Philanthropy

An image of Scarlett Johansson posing for the camera
The brand added Time's Up to its philanthropy after Scarlett Johansson wore Billy Reid sunglasses to a protest march

After Scarlett Johansson wore the brand’s sunglasses to the 2018 Women's March in Los Angeles,[117] the company pledged to donate 100% of the profits from the sales of the Ian Sunglasses to the Time’s Up Legal Defense Fund.[118]

Billy Reid is a corporate sponsor of the Southern Foodways Alliance,[119] and the brand produced a capsule collection of T-shirts, sweatshirts, caps and chef aprons to promote the member-funded nonprofit organization;[120] 20% of proceeds from the collection benefited the Southern Foodways Alliance.[121]

Following the catastrophic inland flooding caused by Hurricane Harvey,[122][123] with economic losses estimated at between $70 billion to $200 billion,[124] Reid hosted a warehouse sale at his Austin store and sent all proceeds to members of the Greater Houston restaurant community,[125] and donated all proceeds from a custom created t-shirt to relief efforts.[126]

The brand hosted an April 2018 sample sale pop-up shop at SCAD; the proceeds from the sale supported SCAD student scholarships.[127]

In May 2018, Billy Reid partnered with the Trombone Shorty Foundation to provide music education for children in underserved communities.[128]

Awards and honors

The Brown pelican Pelecanus occidentalis is the official bird of Reid’s home state of Louisiana,[129] and has been a motif in shirts and dresses

Personal life

The fleur-de-lis is the symbol of the Saints. Black, old gold and white, are the team colors.
Reid is an LSU Tigers football fan

Reid is a fan of the New Orleans Saints,[137] and designed a custom black and gold football from Louisiana wild alligator leather for an NFL Super Bowl 50 charity auction.[138][139] Reid is also a "huge LSU fan" and has "probably listened to or watched every game that's been on in [his] lifetime."[140]

Reid has been an avid tennis player since high school,[141] and coaches his son’s baseball team, which in 2016 made it to the Cal Ripken Baseball World Series in Aberdeen, Maryland.[142][143][144][145] Reid designs the uniforms for the team.

Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve is his favorite bourbon;[146] his drink of choice is an Old Weller 107 on the rocks.[147]

Reid has stated, “I’m a music freak. I play music, I write music, I love music. [...] If you look at the mood boards around here, you'd see everyone from the Allman Brothers to Pink to Kid Cudi.”[148]

See also

References

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  2. LAUREN SHERMAN, Seeking Comfort at Billy Reid: The designer aimed to entertain his weary audience with more than just clothes. Business of Fashion, JANUARY 31, 2017.
  3. Alex Badia, Billy Reid Men’s Fall 2017 Women's Wear Daily, January 31, 2017
  4. Jean E. Palmieri, Billy Reid RTW Spring 2018: The collection featured soft, easy silhouettes in lightweight fabrics. Women's Wear Daily, September 11, 2017
  5. Lee Carter, SPRING 2018 READY-TO-WEAR: Billy Reid Vogue magazine, SEPTEMBER 11, 2017
  6. 1 2 Laurie Brookins, MADE IN AMERICA: FOUR FASHION DESIGNERS ON WHAT IT TAKES TO DO SO 7/20/2017
  7. Past Winners CFDA.com
  8. "Annual Estimates of the Resident Population for Incorporated Places: April 1, 2010 to July 1, 2015". Retrieved July 2, 2016.
  9. Justin Abbott, Meet the Designers: Billy Reid blogs.nordstrom.com AUGUST 19, 2013
  10. 1 2 3 Alex Hoyt, Steel Magnolia: The rugged charm of Southern fashion’s prodigal son, Billy Reid Rhapsody Magazine, July 2016
  11. Instagram post Accessed 6/6/2018
  12. LAUREN SHERMAN, 10 YEARS IN, BILLY REID TALKS EXPANSION AND WHAT THE CFDA/VOGUE FASHION FUND MEANT FOR HIS BUSINESS fashionista.com JAN 9, 2015
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  32. Robin Givhan, The fashion world was rattled by the election — and you can see it on the runway The Washington Post February 5, 2017
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  47. Billy Reid Just Released Fall’s Best New Sunglasses Justin Fenner, Men's Journal, November 2017
  48. The Latest Design Trend: Black and Burned Wood AMANDA FORTINI, New York Times, September 19, 2017
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  50. JONATHAN EVANS, Menswear Designer Billy Reid Wants to Make Less Stuff Esquire, September 1, 2017
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  58. Justin Fenner, This Fall, the Peacoat Is Better Than Ever GQ, September 29, 2016
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  63. KIM SEVERSON, A powerful, and provocative, voice for Southern food New York Times News Service, MAY 23, 2017
  64. Stephanie Saltzman, Ryan Gosling and Harrison Ford Just Invented Autumnal Red Carpet Dressing 21 September 2017
  65. Billy Reid: Shindig all about the people Monica Collier, August 25, 2017
  66. Valeriya Safronova, Billy Reid’s Fashion Hootenanny Morphs Into a Dance Party The New York Times Feb. 1, 2017
  67. JACOB GALLAGHER, A Dixie-Style Shindig for Manhattan’s Fashion Crowd: The Alabama-based designer Billy Reid threw a post-fashion-show bash at the Beekman hotel with southern charm—plus grits and jazz—to spare Wall Street Journal, Feb. 8, 2017
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  74. 1 2 3 Adam Gold, Jason Isbell Returns to Muscle Shoals for Cathartic Hometown Gig: Billy Reid's Shindig in the Shoals, held in Alabama's culturally rich region, also attracts Jack White, Preservation Hall Jazz Band Rolling Stone, August 28, 2017
  75. Monica Collier,JOHN CURRENCE: Big Bad Breakfast Shindig style Times Daily August 16, 2017
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  78. Jennifer Edwards, UNA gets electric car charging stations Times Daily, August 26, 2017
  79. Winemaker André Mack billyreid.com October 6, 2017
  80. Other People’s Pinot Noir Maison Noir Wines
  81. "Billy Reid on Instagram: "Still on a high from our Shindig at Blackberry Farm! Sincere thanks to all who were a part. We're counting down the days until next year!…"". Instagram. Retrieved 26 May 2018.
  82. Shindig At Blackberry Farm December 17, 2017
  83. Blackberry Farm Shindig billyreid.com/blog
  84. Shindig 10
  85. Kacey Musgraves Shines at Billy Reid’s Muscle Shoals Shindig: Tenth annual Alabama culture bash also boasts Dan Auerbach, St. Paul and the Broken Bones and more Rolling Stone, Adam Gold, August 28, 2018
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  87. BILLY REID OPENS SECOND ATLANTA LOCATION MR Magazine, November 20, 2015
  88. Lauren Sherman, The Rise of Luxury Strip Malls: Outdoor shopping centres are drawing in customers who long ago wrote off the traditional mall experience through a modern mix of food, fashion and practicality. businessoffashion.com June 12, 2017
  89. Billy Reid's new Fulton Market store to open this month Alexia Elejalde-Ruiz, Chicago Tribune, May 4, 2015
  90. Nick Grant, The 50 Best Stores in the World, Complex, August 2013
  91. MIKE ALBO, Dressed to Impress, With a Southern Drawl New York Times, February 18, 2009
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  102. "JEANNE SUNGLASSES". Billyreid.com. Retrieved 26 May 2018.
  103. "Tennis Shoes, clothing & apparel - K-Swiss". Kswiss.com. Retrieved 31 October 2017.
  104. Mikelle Street, Billy Reid Wants to Take His Shindig Festival On the Road observer.com 03/22/16
  105. Christian Allaire Billy Reid & K-Swiss Collaborate Again For Fall 2016, Footwearnews.com February 4, 2016
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  107. PSG, 360. "PW Minor - Our Mission". Pwminor.com. Retrieved 31 October 2017.
  108. MASTINE-FROST, JUSTIN (August 16, 2017). "Billy Reid Collaboration Brings Luxe 'Made in America' Twist to the Classic Sneaker". Robb Report. Retrieved August 16, 2017.
  109. Cadillac, The Council of Fashion Designers of America and Cadillac announce the next class of Retail Lab designers 2016-09-07
  110. ALISON S. COHN, Public Access: Dream of being dressed by your favorite buzzed-about designer? This NYC "retail lab" brings the labels you love up close and personal. Elle June 9, 2017
  111. Nicholas Tamarin, Gensler Collaborates with Cadillac and CFDA on New York Flagship interiordesign.net June 1, 2016
  112. Robert Palmer, Boutique hotel taking shape, to open midsummer Times Daily, May 24, 2017
  113. Robert Palmer, Shoals' first boutique hotel holds open house Times Daily, July 23, 2017
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  117. "Billy Reid on Instagram: "Spotted at the Women's March Los Angeles, Scarlett Johansson in our Ian sunglasses. To show our support for the Times Up Movement, we will…"". Instagram. Retrieved 26 May 2018.
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  122. "Harvey Death Toll Rises To At Least 70". CBS News. The Associated Press. Retrieved 7 September 2017.
  123. Joel Achenbach (August 27, 2017). "FEMA director says Harvey is probably the worst disaster in Texas history". The Washington Post. Retrieved August 27, 2017.
  124. "Storm costs nearing $200B; contracting opportunities surge". Mary Scott Nabers. 2017-09-01. Retrieved 2017-09-07.
  125. Matthew Odam, Free Olamaie fried chicken biscuits at Billy Reid sale Thursday to support Houston restaurants Austin360 September 7, 2017
  126. "Instagram". Instagram.com. Retrieved 31 October 2017.
  127. SCAD and Billy Reid Partner for Pop-Up Sale Nick Thomsen, scaddistrict.com April 27, 2018
  128. Billy Reid is Using Fashion and Music to Give Back to New Orleans Christine Flammia, GQ, May 2, 2018
  129. "Louisiana State Bird". Louisiana State Bird: Brown Pelican. SHG Resources.
  130. New York Magazine Best of New York 2009 • Best Men’s Store
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  135. MATT SEBRA, Billy Reid, CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year GQ, June 5, 2012
  136. Zachary Weiss, Meet the Men on Observer’s 2017 American Menswear Power List, Observer 1/31/2017
  137. "Billy Reid on Instagram: "Geaux Saints! #WhoDat"". Instagram. Retrieved 26 May 2018.
  138. JOHN BIALAS, Saints fans, fashion designers unveil special Super Bowl 50 footballs for charity The Sun Herald, JANUARY 22, 2016
  139. Behind-the-Scenes at the CFDA-NFL Bespoke Football Collaboration Marc Karimzadeh, CFDA.com 01-13-2016
  140. 10 Essentials: Billy Reid GQ Magazine
  141. "Billy Reid on Instagram: "Billy, an avid tennis player since high school, was inspired by 1930s and 40s tennis style, especially the beautiful soft suits tennis…"". Instagram. Retrieved 26 May 2018.
  142. SHARI GAB, CLOTHES & PERSONAL: BILLY REID A few lessons on the art of dressing sharp and living well InsideHook 7 FEBRUARY 2017
  143. Jennifer Edwards, Baseball, coaching an escape for Billy Reid Times Daily, July 23, 2016
  144. FLORENCE, ALABAMA’S ROAD TO ABERDEEN RIPKEN BASEBALL 7/26/2016
  145. Florence 12U heads to the Cal Ripken WORLD SERIES in Aberdeen, Maryland Quad Cities Daily, July 28, 2016
  146. 10 Essentials: Billy Reid GQ Magazine
  147. Southern Charm: Billy Reid On Where to Eat, Drink and Play in Florence, Alabama Barry Samaha, Forbes, May 2, 2018
  148. Billy Reid is Using Fashion and Music to Give Back to New Orleans: He partnered with the Trombone Shorty Foundation to help provide music education for underserved kids. Christine Flammia, GQ magazine, May 2, 2018
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