Army Mountaineering Association

The British Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) is the governing body for climbing competitions and the representative body for mountaineering in the British Army. It is a member of the British Mountaineering Council^[1] and is the largest climbing club in the United Kingdom.^[2]

Army Mountaineering Association

Abbreviation	AMA
Formation	1957
Type	Charitable Association
Headquarters	Joint Service Mountain Training Centre (Indefatigable), Llanfair PG, Anglesey, LL61 6NT.
Membership	circa 2,500
President	Lt Gen Ivan Hooper[3]
Website	http://www.armymountaineer.org.uk/

History, Organisation and Status

The AMA was formed on 24 May 1957.^[4][5] It has charitable status and its constitution states that it exists 'To promote military efficiency by encouraging mountaineering in the Army'. Membership is open to serving members of the British Army and the Army Reserve. Since its inception the AMA has been involved in delivering and supporting mountaineering activity for its members. The association is currently engaged in two major areas of activity which are: mountaineering and climbing competitions each of which is governed separately.

The business of the AMA is managed by an executive committee who are elected annually. Its current president is Lieutenant General Ivan Hooper^[6]

Mountaineering

The AMA organises mountaineering training and expeditions for its members and encourages them to organise their own expeditions. It makes grants from the AMA 'Memorial Fund' to help support individuals wishing to take part in significant mountaineering expeditions.^[7] Since its inception the AMA has organised or provided significant support to a number of major expedition to the Greater Ranges including:

• 1959 – Malubitang East (First Ascent)^{[8][9][10][11]}
• 1960 – Annapurna II (First Ascent) (Joint Service)^[12]
• 1962 – Khunyang Chhish also known as Khinyang Chhish^[13][14]
• 1967 - Sukkertoppen East Greenland Expedition^[15]
• 1968 - Army East Greenland Expedition^[16]
• 1969 – Tirich Mir^[17][18]
• 1969 - Joint Services North Peary Land Expeditions (Army led)^[19]
• 1970 – Annapurna^[20][21]
• 1972 – Axel Heiberg Island^[22][23]
• 1972 - Joint Services Chilean Patagonia Expedition (Army led)^[24]
• 1973 - Himachal Pradesh Expedition^[25]
• 1974 – Lamjung Himal (See German Wiki page – de:Lamjung Himal for more info on Lamjung Himal)^[26]
• 1975 – Nuptse (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition)^[27][28]
• 1976 – Mount Everest – South Col (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition)^[29][30]
• 1980 – Api^[31]
• 1985 – Kirat Chuli (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition)^[32]
• 1987 – Shishapangma (Xixabangma) (Joint AMA / Civilian expedition)^[33]
• 1987 – Saser Kangri (First Ascent of Saser Kangri IV)^[34]
• 1988 – Mount Everest – West Ridge^[35]
• 1990 – Gyachung Kang^[36]
• 1992 – Annapurna IV^[37][38]
• 1992 – Mount Everest – West Ridge^[35]
• 1994 – Mount Foraker – Archangel Ridge (Second Ascent)^[39][40]
• 1996 – Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)^[41][42]
• 2000 – Kangchenjunga (Joint Service – Royal Navy lead)^[43]
• 2004 – Makalu(Joint Service – RAF Lead)^[44]
• 2006 – Mount Everest – West Ridge^[45]
• 2007 – Shishapangma^[46]
• 2008 – Makalu (Joint Service – RAF Lead)^[47]
• 2012 – Antarctica – Graham Land (Joint Service – Army Lead)^[48][49]
• 2015 – Mount Everest – North Ridge (Received AMA Support)^[50][51]
• 2017 – Putha Hiunchuli – Normal Route

Climbing Competitions

The AMA organises bouldering and indoor sport climbing competitions for the Army. The first Army level sport climbing competition was organised at Bristol by Colonel Paul John Edwards on 28 April 1995. The AMA continues to organise indoor climbing competitions and now competes annually against the Royal Navy and RAF, as well as contributing members to the Combined Services Sport Climbing team, which competes regularly against military sport climbers from other countries.^[52][53]

Prominent AMA members

The following are current/former presidents, Vice-Presidents or Chairman of the AMA.^[54]

• Field Marshal Sir Gerald Templer KG, GCB, GCMG, KBE, DSO (President) (Loyal Regiment (North Lancashire))
• Brigadier John Hunt, Baron Hunt KG, CBE, DSO, PC (Vice-President) (King's Royal Rifle Corps)
• Sir Chris Bonington CVO, CBE, DL (Honorary Vice-President) (Royal Tank Regiment)
• Lieutenant Colonel Tony Streather OBE (Honorary President) (Gloucestershire Regiment)

UIAGM Mountain Guides: The following AMA members have become members of the British Association of Mountain Guides

• Major Mac McKay (Royal Army Physical Training Corps)^[55]
• Captain Stuart McDonald (Royal Engineers) (Everest Summiteer).^[56][57]
• Warrant Officer Class 1 Paul Chiddle (Royal Army Physical Training Corps)^[58]
• Captain Tania Noakes (Royal Signals)^[59]

Other notable AMA Members:

• Lieutenant Colonel Charles Wylie OBE (Ghurkas) – Organising Secretary to the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.^[60]
• Lieutenant Colonel J. O. M. Roberts MVO, MBE, MC (Ghurkas) – First Ascents of Annapurna II – 1960, Mera Peak – 20 May 1953 and Putha Hiunchuli – 11 November 1952.^[61][62]
• Colonel Henry Day (Royal Engineers) – 2nd Ascent (and first British Ascent) of Annapurna, 20 May 1970.^[63]
• Lieutenant Colonel Jon W A Fleming OBE Parachute Regiment (United Kingdom) – Deputy leader of Greenland expeditions 1967 & 1968, Leader of Tirich Mir Expedition 1969, Leader of Himachal Pradesh Expedition 1973 & Leader of Nuptse Expedition 1975, Organising Secretary Everest Expedition 1976, Co-author Soldiers on Everest.
• Major Sir Crispin Agnew of Lochnaw Bt, RHF – Member RN Expedition to Greenland 1966, Leader Army East Greenland 1968, Member Joint Services Elephant Island Expedition 1970/71, Leader Joint Services Chilean Patagonia Expedition 1972/73, Member Nuptse Expedition 1975, member Everest Expedition 1976, Leader Army Api Expedition 1980.
• Major Bronco Lane MM, BEM (Special Air Service) – Ascent of Everest, 16 May 1976^[64]
• John Stokes (mountaineer) (Brummy Stokes), MBE, BEM (Special Air Service) – Ascent of Everest, 16 May 1976 with Bronco Lane^[65]
• Major Mike Smith (Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers) – UK veteran sport climbing champion 2009^[66]

References

External links

• Army Mountaineering Association – Official site