Tomáš Mrázek

Tomáš Mrázek (born August 24, 1982, in Brno) is a professional Czech rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two World Championships, in 2003[1] and 2005,[2] and one Lead World Cup, in 2004.[3]

Tomáš Mrázek
Personal information
NationalityCzech Republic
Born (1982-08-24) August 24, 1982
Brno
Height178 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight62 kg (137 lb)
Websitewww.tomasmrazek.cz
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Sport
Retired2010
Medal record
World Cup
Winner2004Lead
Winner2006Combined
World Championships
2003Lead
2005Lead
2001Lead
2007Lead
European Championships
2002Lead
2008Lead
2007Bouldering
World Games
2005Lead
Updated on 13 May 2013.

Biography

Tomáš started climbing on the rocks of Stránská skála near Brno in 1997. Only two years later, he could climb his first 8a and in the subsequent year managed to win the Czech Championship in lead climbing.

  • In 2001 he became Junior World Champion in Imst, Austria,[4] Vice World Champion in Winterthur, Suisse,[5] and he won the prestigious Rock Master competition in Arco, Italy.[6]
  • In 2002 he reached the overall 2nd place of the Lead World Cup and succeeded to repeat the legendary route Underground 9a redpoint in Massone near Arco.[7]
  • In 2003 he won the World Championship in lead in Chamonix, France,[1] and climbed Sanjski Par Extension 9a in Mišja Peč, Slovenia.[7]
  • In 2004 he became overall winner of the Lead World Cup.[3]
  • In 2005 he repeated to win the World Championships in Munich, Germany[2] and placed 2nd at the World Games in Duisburg, Germany.[8] Moreover he succeeded to onsight Pata Negra in Rodellar, the second 8c onsight ever,[9] and Martin Krpan 9a in Mišja Peč.[7][10]

Tomáš has been keeping to win the Czech Championships annually.

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[11]
Discipline 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009
Lead 23 3 2 6 1 8 3 3 2 16
Bouldering 73 6 9 42
Speed 52
Combined 13 1 2 3

Climbing World Championships[12]
Discipline 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009
Lead 2 1 1 3 18

Number of medals in the World Cup

Lead
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2000
200122
2002314
200322
20044419
2005
2006134
20072114
20081113
200911
Total1011829

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Xaxid Hostel - Mišja Peč (SLO) - 5 November 2009 - First ascent[13]
  • Open Your Mind Direct - Santa Linya (ESP) - 2009[14]

9a (5.14d):

  • Halupca 1978 - Mišja Peč (SLO)
  • Fuck the system - Santa Linya (ESP) - 20 March 2009
  • Seleció natural extensión - Santa Linya (ESP) - 10 March 2009
  • Analogica - Santa Linya (ESP) - 16 December 2008[15]
  • Martin Krpan - Mišja Peč (SLO) - 5 April 2005
  • Sanjski Par Extension - Mišja Peč (SLO) - 4 April 2003
  • Underground - Massone (ITA) - 2002 - Bolted by Manfred Stuffer in 1998

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

  • Humildes pa´casa - Oliana (ESP) - 17 March 2009
  • Pata Negra - Rodellar (ESP) - 10 August 2005 - Second 8c onsight in history after Yuji Hirayama.[16]

References
  1. "Sarkany and Mrazek World Champions". planetmountain.com. 14 July 2003. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  2. "Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter World Champions". planetmountain.com. 4 July 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  3. Dougald MacDonald. "World Cup's Dramatic Finale". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  4. "UIAA Youth World Championship - Imst(AUT) 2001 - Result: male juniors lead". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  5. "UIAA World Championship - Winterthur (SUI) 2001 - Result: M E N lead". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  6. "Rock Master Hall of Fame". rockmasterfestival.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  7. "Tomáš Mrázek - Informace". tomasmrazek.cz. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  8. "International World Games (L+S) - Duisburg (GER) 2005 - Result: MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. 22 July 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  9. "Mrazek onsights Pata negra 8c!". planetmountain.com. 13 September 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  10. "Tomas Mrazek 9a redpoint and 8b+ onsights". planetmountain.com. 18 April 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  11. IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  12. IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Mrazek's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  13. "Thomas Mrazek libera Xaxid Hostel 9a+ a Misja Pec". planetmountain.com. 6 November 2009. Retrieved 11 January 2012.
  14. "Tomas Mrazek about his climb Directa Open Your Mind 9a+ in Spain". czechclimbing.com. 23 November 2009. Retrieved 11 January 2012.
  15. "Tomas Mrazek- Analogica 9a/a+". czechclimbing.com. 2 December 2009. Retrieved 11 January 2012.
  16. "Tomas Mrazek sent 8c onsigth !!". czechclimbing.com. 10 August 2005. Retrieved 11 January 2012.
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