Kosode

The Kosode (小袖, lit. "small sleeves") is a basic Japanese robe for both men and women; the literal meaning of the term kosode is "small sleeve", which refers to the sleeve opening. It is worn both as an undergarment and an overgarment, as such it is sometimes interchangeable with a nagajuban (長襦袢, lit. "long undergarment"). The kosode were traditionally worn during the Japanese Edo Period (1600–1868).

Comparison between a kosode (left) and a modern-day kimono (right).
Parts of a Kosode
Oichi wearing a kosode and uchikake wrapped around the waist.

Kosode are T-shaped, have a looser fit than the kimono and come in varying lengths. Kosode are worn with an obi (sash), that is considerably smaller than that of the modern kimono. Often worn with hakama (pleated, divided skirt) for men or naga-bakama (very long hakama) for women, as in the case of the miko.

Kosode evolved at some point in the late 14th century and replaced the many layered, unlined hirosodes. Over time kosode gradually developed into a wide variety of styles, with patterns and fabrics.

Parts

  • (Sode) – Sleeves
  • (Eri) – Collar
  • 身頃 (Migoro) – body panels
  • (Okumi) – overlap panels

References

  • Fashion Encyclopedia
  • Gluckman, Dale Carolyn, and Sharon Sadako Takeda, eds. When Art Became Fashion: Kosode in Edo-Period Japan. New York: Weatherhill, 1992.
  • Kennedy, Alan. Japanese Costume: History and Tradition. New York: Rizzoli, 1990.
  • Kosode: 16th–19th Century Textiles from the Nomura Collection. New York: Kodansha International, 1985.
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