Vanity sizing

Vanity sizing, or size inflation, is the phenomenon of ready-to-wear clothing of the same nominal size becoming bigger in physical size over time.[1][2][3] This has been documented primarily in the United States and the United Kingdom [4][5] US standard clothing sizes are no longer used by manufacturers as the official guidelines for clothing sizes was abandoned in 1983[6]. In the United States, although clothing size standards exist (i.e., ASTM), most companies do not use them any longer.[2]

Size inconsistency has existed since at least 1937. In Sears's 1937 catalog, a size 14 dress had a bust size of 32 inches (81 cm). In 1967, the same bust size was a size 8. In 2011, it was a size 0.[7] Some argue that vanity sizing is designed to satisfy wearers' wishes to appear thin and feel better about themselves.[2][3] This works by adhering to the theory of compensatory self-enhancement, as vanity sizing promotes a more positive self-image of one upon seeing a smaller label.[8] Designer Nicole Miller introduced size 0 because of its strong California presence and to satisfy the request of many Asian customers. It introduced subzero sizes for naturally petite women.[2] However, the increasing size of clothing with the same nominal size caused Nicole Miller to introduce size 0, 00, or subzero sizes.[2] The UK's Chief Medical Officer has suggested that vanity sizing has contributed to the normalisation of obesity in society.[9]

In 2003, a study that measured over 1,000 pairs of women's pants found that pants from more expensive brands tended to be smaller than those from cheaper brands with the same nominal size.[10]

US pattern sizing measurements: 1931 - 2015

Pattern sizes - Du Barry / Woolworth (1931-1955)[11]
5'3"–5'6" tall, average: bust (3" < hips), waist (9" < hips)
Dimension/size 10111213141516182040
Bust 28293031323334363840
Waist 2323.52425262728303234
Hip 31323334353637394143
Pattern sizes - McCalls (1947)[12]
5'3"–5'6" tall, average: bust (3" < hips), waist (8-9" < hips)
Dimension/size 121416182040424446
Bust 303234363840424446
Waist 2526½28303234383840
Hip 333537394143454749
Pattern sizes - DuBarry / Woolworth (1956-1967)[11]
5'3"–5'6" tall, average: bust (2" < hips), waist (9"-10" < hips)
Dimension/size 9101112131415161820
Bust 30.53131.532333435363840
Waist 23.52424.52525.52627283032
Hip 32.53333.534353637384042
Pattern sizes - DuBarry / Woolworth (1968–present)[11]
5'3"–5'6" tall, average: bust (2" < hips), waist (9"-10" < hips)
Dimension/size 4681012141618202224
Bust 29.530.531.532.534363840424446
Waist 2223242526.5283032343739
Hip 31.532.533.534.536384042444648

US misses standard sizing measurements: 1958 - 2011

Misses’ sizes (CS 215-58)[13] (1958)
5'3"–5'6" tall, regular hip
Dimension/size 810121416182022
Bust 3132½3435½37394143
Waist 23½24½25½2728½30½32½34½
Hip 32½34363840424446
Misses’ sizes (PS 42-70)[14] (1970)
5'2½"–5'6½" tall, average bust, average back
Dimension/size 6810121416182022
Bust 31½32½33½3536½38404244
Waist 22½23½24½2627½29313335
Hip 33½34½35½3738½40424446
Back-waist length 14½1515¼15½15¾1616¼16½16¾
Misses’ sizes (ASTM D5585 95(R2001)) (1995, revised 2001)
5'3½" - 5'8" tall
Dimension/size 2468101214161820
Bust 323334353637½3940½42½44½
Waist 242526272829½3132½34½36½
Hip 34½35½36½37½38½4041½434547
Misses’ sizes (ASTM D5585 11e1)[15] (2011)
5'5½" tall
Dimension/size 0002468101214161820
Bust 31⅛31¾3334⅛35¼36¼37¼38¾40⅜42⅛4446
Waist (Straight) 25⅜26⅛26⅞27⅝28½29½30½32¼343638¼40½
Waist (Curvy) 23⅞24⅝25⅜26⅛27282930¾32½34½36¾39
Hip (Straight) 33¼33⅞35⅛36⅜37½38½39½4142½44¼4648
Hip (Curvy) 3434⅝35⅞37⅛38¼39¼40¼41¾43¼4546¾48¾

Men's clothing

Although more common in women's apparel, vanity sizing occurs in men's clothing as well. For example, men's pants are traditionally marked with two numbers, "waist" (waist circumference) and "inseam" (distance from the crotch to the hem of the pant). While the nominal inseam is fairly accurate, the nominal waist may be quite a bit smaller than the actual waist, in U.S. sizes. In 2010, Abram Sauer of Esquire measured several pairs of dress pants with a nominal waist size of 36 at different U.S. retailers and found that actual measurements ranged from 37 to 41 inches.[16] The phenomenon has also been noticed in the United Kingdom, where a 2011 study found misleading labels on more than half of checked items of clothing. In that study, worst offenders understated waist circumferences by 1.5 to 2 inches. London-based market analyst Mintel say that the number of men reporting varying waistlines from store to store doubled between 2005 and 2011.[17]

See also

References

  1. ↑ "Flattery Gets Designers Everywhere". 15 July 2002.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 Schrobsdorff, Susanna (Oct 18, 2006) Fashion Designers Introduce Less-than-Zero Sizes Newsweek.
  3. 1 2 D'Angelo, Jennifer (2002-07-15). "Flattery Gets Designers Everywhere". Fox News.
  4. ↑ https://www.al/story.asp?S=1771013&nav=1aI8M8qf
  5. ↑ al/story.asp?S=1771013&nav=1aI8M8qf
  6. ↑ "Hidden Numbers: The History of Women's Clothing Sizes in the U.S. | Bodylore". sites.wp.odu.edu. Retrieved 2018-09-20.
  7. ↑ Clifford, Stepanie (April 24, 2011). "One Size Fits Nobody: Seeking a Steady 4 or a 10". New York Times. Retrieved 13 July 2011.
  8. ↑ "Hidden Numbers: The History of Women's Clothing Sizes in the U.S. | Bodylore". sites.wp.odu.edu. Retrieved 2018-09-20.
  9. ↑ Howard, SJ; Davies, Sally C (27 March 2014). "Chief medical officer urges action to tackle overweight and obesity". BMJ. 348: g2375. doi:10.1136/bmj.g2375. PMID 24677657. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  10. ↑ Kinley, TR (2003). "Clothing Size Variation in Women's Pants" Archived 2006-10-19 at the Wayback Machine.. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 21 (1): 19–31. Subscription required.
  11. 1 2 3 "A SHORT HISTORY OF U.S. WHITE WOMEN'S MEASUREMENTS USED FOR PATTERNMAKING". Analog-Me. Retrieved 2015-03-11.
  12. ↑ "Vintage-1940s-McCalls-6879-Misses-Shirtwaist-Dress". Retrieved 2015-03-11.
  13. ↑ "CS 215-58 Body measurements for the sizing of women's patterns and apparel" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2016-03-04. Retrieved 2015-06-17.
  14. ↑ "PS 42-70 Body measurement for the sizing of apparal" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2016-03-07. Retrieved 2014-09-14.
  15. ↑ "ASTM D5585 - 11e1: Standard Tables of Body Measurements for Adult Female Misses Figure Type, Size Range 00–20". Astm.org. ASTM. Retrieved 2011-11-13.
  16. ↑ Sauer, Abram (September 2010). "Are Your Pants Lying to You? An Investigation". Esquire.
  17. ↑ "Wrong trousers on the High Street as men fall victim to 'vanity sizing'". The Sunday Telegraph. September 2011.
  • Johnson, Kate (2006-05-05). "As waistlines grow, clothing sizes shrink incredibly; 0 is the new 8". Boston Globe.
  • "Study questions the sizing methods in women's apparel". Web2.unt.edu. 2003-12-16. Archived from the original on 2007-03-25. Retrieved 2013-03-14. Press release.
  • Rickey, M (2007-09-22). "Vanity sizing". The Times (London).
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