Jan Hojer

Jan Hojer
Hojer winning the European Championships, 2017
Personal information
Nationality Germany
Born (1992-02-09) February 9, 1992
Cologne, Germany
Occupation Professional rock climber
Height 188 cm (6 ft 2 in)
Weight 77 kg (170 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber Bouldering
Highest grade
Known for Winning one World Cup and two European Championships
Updated on 21 September 2018.
Hojer competing at the World Cup, Munich, 2015
Hojer, 2015
Hojer second at the World Cup 2015

Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in bouldering. On May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, still considered to be one of the most difficult routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he solved several 8C (V15) boulder problems.

Career

Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. In 2008, 2009 and 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup.

Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, in 2011 he quit competing in that discipline and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships.

In 2014 he won the Climbing World Cup in bouldering.[1]

In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in the same discipline.[1]

In 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in Wroclaw, Poland.

He also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. On May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, still considered to be one of the most difficult routes in the world.[2]

From 2013 to 2015, he solved several outdoor 8C (V15) boulder problems.

Results

Climbing World Cup[3]

Discipline 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Lead 22 22 43 - - - - 33 - 17
Bouldering - - - 33 20 8 1 2 9 7
Speed - - - - - - - - - 29
Combined - - - - - - - 5 - 7

Climbing World Championships[1]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018
Lead 30 - - 30 - 29
Bouldering 39 46 5 3 27 9
Speed - - - 30 - 33
Combined - - - 2 - 3

Climbing European Championships[1]

Discipline 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 41 - - 21
Bouldering - 20 1 1
Speed - - - 23
Combined - - - 1

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Bouldering[1]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201211
2013112
2014325
201511
201611
201711
20180
Total64111

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Pati noso - Siurana (ESP) - April 27, 2011
  • Bah Bah Black Sheep - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2010

Boulder problems

8C (V15):

8B+ (V14):

  • Jour de Chasse - Fontainebleau (FRA) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb.[8]
  • Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.."[9]

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Hojer's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  2. Jan Hojer climbs Action Directe on climbing.de, Incl. Video. November 4, 2010
  3. IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  4. Quoi de Neuf 8c jan hojer
  5. Hojer sends The Story of Two Worlds V15
  6. Le Marathon de Boissy 8c Boissy aux Cailles
  7. Jan Hojer repeating The Big Island (V15) on ukclimbing.com, Incl. Video.
  8. Comments about Jour de Chasse on 8a.nu
  9. Hojer's boulders on 8a.nu
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