Ballyryan

Ballyryan (Ballyreen)
Irish: Baile Uí Rinn; Ring's homestead
Climbers on Right Crack (V-Diff) in Ballyran
Map showing the location of Ballyryan (Ballyreen)
Location of Ballyryan crag in Ireland
Location
Nearest city 6 km south of Fanore
8 km north of Doolin
Range The Burren
Coordinates 53°04′00″N 9°21′32″W / 53.06661°N 9.3589°W / 53.06661; -9.3589Coordinates: 53°04′00″N 9°21′32″W / 53.06661°N 9.3589°W / 53.06661; -9.3589
Climbing type
Height 15 metres at highest point
Pitches Single pitch
Ratings
  • mostly D to VS
  • several above E1
Rock type Limestone
Quantity of rock
  • +35 routes online database
  • 30 routes 2008 guidebook
Development
  • Roadside Parking
  • No Facilities
  • No Fresh Water
Cliff aspect West
Elevation circa 25 metres above sea level
Ownership Private property
Camping
Classic climbs
  • Right Crack (VD).
  • Vulgarian (S).
  • Alcove Crack (HS).
  • Triumph Crack (HS).
  • Mannerless Monster (HS).
  • Slave Labour (E1 5b).
Website Climbing.ie Ballyryan

Ballyryan (Irish: Baile Uí Rinn; Ring's homestead) is a small inland mostly west-facing limestone crag in The Burren in County Clare, Ireland. It is popular with rock climbers due to its easy access, the range of short easy-to-intermediate rock climbs, its close proximity to the much larger Ailladie rock climbing sea-cliff.

Rock climbing

Ballyryan crag from the south

The Ballyryan rock climbing crag is located right beside the Ailladie Car Park on the R477 road, which is opposite the Stone Wall section of the Ailladie sea-cliff.[1] While Ballyran's first rock climbing routes date from the early 1970s (e.g. Whose Corner (VS 4c), and Whacky (HS) grade), it is noted that Irish "Tiglin" climbing groups conducted courses on many Ballyryan routes without recording their ascents.[1]

While most of Ballyryan's routes are circa 10–12 metres high and between Diff to HVS, its proximity to Ailladie, with its numerous severe climbs, has led to a number of E-grade climbs being put up in the crag, namely, Agony Aunt (E2 5c) and Crack 90 (E3 6a).[2] For various reasons, Ballyryan's rock climbing routes are sometimes described as being "difficult to protect" when "leading", and therefore an extra degree of caution is needed.[1] Novice climbers can "toprope" for safety.

The cliff is named after the townland in which it is located, Ballyryan.[3]

Climbing bibliography

  • Owens, Peter (2008). Climbs in the Burren and Aran Islands. Mountaineering Ireland. ISBN 0-902940-21-X.

See also

  • Ailladie, major rock climbing limestone sea-cliff in County Clare
  • Aill na Cronain, inland rock climbing limestone crag in County Clare, right beside the Aillwee Cave
  • Fair Head, major rock climbing dolerite mountain crag in County Antrim
  • Dalkey Quarry, major rock climbing granite quarry in Dublin

References

  1. 1 2 3 "Ballyryan". Irish Climbing Wiki. 2018. This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners and chimneys and can be seen clearly from the road. Most of the routes were climbed by Tiglin groups before they were recorded. Access - From the car-park of Ailladie (Stone Wall area) walk south for a few hundred metres until the roadside crag swings sharply east and becomes a bit higher. Known locally as Ballyreen.
  2. ↑ "UKC Log: Bally Ryan, Co Clare, Ireland". UK Climbing Log. This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners, and chimneys and can be clearly seen from the coast road traveling down the Burren towards Doolin harbor. Access is easy and the walk is around 20-30 seconds. Some great bouldering up top and seems pretty undeveloped - worth a look if passing by.
  3. ↑ "Ballyryan Townland, Co. Clare". Townland.ie. 2018.
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