Baby Phat

1999–2003

Baby Phat was established under Phat Fashions LLC in 1999 as an extension of the urban menswear brand Phat Farm. Initially, the Baby Phat symbol was placed on simple T-shirts and gifted as party favors to celebrities and models, including Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington.^[4] Prior to its launch as an independent label, the shirts were included in fashion shows.^[5]

In 2000, Kimora Lee Simmons was appointed president and creative director. Under her direction, the brand focused on redesigning the line to be more fitted and feminine.^[4] The line was also expanded to include accessories and a wider collection of apparel.

In 2001, Baby Phat reported gross revenue earnings of $30 million,^[6] and by 2002 Phat Farm and Baby Phat had made a combined profit of $265 million.^[7] By 2003, Baby Phat's profitability had increased by 30% from the prior year.^[8]

In that year, Baby Phat had become one of Russell Simmons' most profitable companies.^[9] A combination of celebrities wearing the brand, and the idea of buying Baby Phat to mirror the "fabulous" lifestyle of Lee Simmons, helped encourage consumer purchases.^[4] Lee Simmons also released a Baby Phat Prepaid Rush Visa Card during Baby Phat's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show in New York.^[10] The pink card, with the Baby Phat logo, was modeled after the Rush Visa Card and offered a 10% discount on online Baby Phat purchases.^[10]

2004–2010

In 2004, Russell Simmons sold Phat Fashions to Kellwood Company for $140 million. Simmons remained president of Phat Fashions, and Lee Simmons continued to work as the president and creative director of Baby Phat.^[11] The sale was intended to fund an expansion to drive more promotional deals and build more stores. That year, the company expanded to selling a custom Motorola i833 mobile phone sold exclusively at Bloomingdale's.^[12] The brand also partnered with Vida Shoes to sell branded stilettos, sneakers and boots.^[13]

In 2005, the label partnered with Coty Inc. to launch Baby Phat Goddess, a fragrance that was carried in department stores, including Sears and Macy's.^[14]

In 2006, the label created a 200-piece lingerie line that was carried at upmarket department stores.^[15] The label also partnered with lifestyle manufacturer Dan River to create interior items,^[16] and expanded to the Middle East.^[17] Lee Simmons's goal was to extend Phat Fashions into a lifestyle brand.^[16] That year, she was promoted to president of Baby Phat's parent company, making her one of the first African-American women to lead a billion-dollar company.

In 2007, Phat fashions partnered with Silver Goose/Kidstreet to create an infant and toddler accessory line.^[18] The brand also launched a reality television show with Style Network. Kimora: Life in the Fab Lane was the network's first reality show and focused on Lee Simmons's life at the company. The show was later distributed through E!.^[19]

In 2008, sales declined at the company, a downturn attributed to the effects of the Great Recession.^[20] The brand's parent company, Kellwood, sold a majority stake to Sun Capital Partners, which led to a change in leadership, eventually leading Lee Simmons to resign.^[21][22]

In August 2010, Lee Simmons announced via Twitter that she was leaving her position as president and creative director on September 1. Given her retweets, it can be assumed that the split with Baby Phat was not completely her decision.^[23][24] She told the New York Daily News that the split was "very abrupt and sudden" and "very sad".^[25]

2011–Present

By 2011, the owner of the Baby Phat brand BP Clothing had transferred the brand and clothing line to Phat Fashions. Soon after, it became a subsidiary of the Kellwood Company.^[26][27]

Increased competition led to Baby Phat no longer being the only urban wear brand marketed toward women. In 2017, Marc Jacobs debuted a line inspired by the history of hip-hop, following the trend of incorporating African-American styles into mainstream fashion. This increased presence and competition of urban wear and hip-hop clothing led to a decline in sales.^[28]

Influence on the industry

Baby Phat was revolutionary in some aspects of runway show design. Lee Simmons was the first designer to have a show at Radio City Music Hall in 2006.^[29] In 2009, she became the first designer to livestream her show on a jumbotron in Times Square, allowing the public access to the normally exclusive runway shows.^[30]

The brand has had a major influence on the intersection hip-hop of fashion bringing urban wear to mainstream fashion. Baby Phat specifically targeted women, one of the first urban brands to do so.^[31]

Lee Simmons was also one of the few Asian women to be president of a billion-dollar company. In 2005, she was considered the second-highest paid woman in New York.^[32]

Influences on the brand

The brand is inspired by Lee Simmons's lifestyle and interests. Simmons calls herself apologetically "hip-hop", combining street styles from female hip-hop stars like Lil' Kim and Mary J. Blige into her collection.^[33][34] As the wife of Russell Simmons, who is considered one of the leading figures in hip-hop, she has been heavily influenced and shaped by the industry.^[33]

At fourteen years old, Simmons made her debut with Chanel and quickly became known as the muse of Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld.^[34] She has cited her time in the modeling industry, but most importantly working with Lagerfeld, as major influences. From watching Lagerfeld, Simmons gained a perspective on the fashion industry, and how to turn expressions into fashion ideas.^[35]

Simmons has also been open about her biracial background, seeing herself as equally black, Korean and Japanese.^[36][33] In 2002, the line featured kimonos and crocheted flowers, which she drew from her Japanese heritage.^[37]

Kimora Lee Simmons' reputation

Lee Simmons's credibility as a president often came into question due to her lavish lifestyle. Her reality show, over-the-top runway shows, jewelry and clothing, along with interviews (specifically a 2006 interview in Vanity Fair), painted Simmons as a diva.^[38] However, Simmons has accepted this persona and used it as a way to sell her "fabulous" brand.^[32]

Gendering and hypersexualization

In an attempt to create clothing that fit the female body, Baby Phat's clothing is often tight, short and low-cut. It has been argued that the brand's attire, coupled with advertisements featuring Lee Simmons and models clad in revealing clothing, contribute to the hypersexualization of women.^[39]