Artimes Farshad Yeganeh

Artimes Farshad Yeganeh
Personal information
Nationality Iranian Iran
Born (1981-05-27) May 27, 1981
Tehran, Iran
Occupation Rock climber, climbing coach and route setter
Height 175 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight 62 kg (137 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber Sport climbing
Highest grade
Medal record
National Championships
2006 Lead
2002 Lead
Groups Cup
2000 National Competition
Fajr Championships
2006 National Competition
2002 International Competition
1998 National Competition
Tehran Province Championships
2001 Lead
2002 Lead
2003 Lead
2004 Lead
2006 Lead
2007 Lead
2008 Lead
2009 Lead
2005 Lead
2010 Lead
2012 Lead
2013 Lead
2013 Bouldering
2014 Lead
Tehran Province League
2010 Lead
2011 Lead
Updated on 11 Dec 2014.

Artimes Farshad Yeganeh (Persian: آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه‎, born 27 May 1981 in Tehran, Iran) is an Iranian rock climber who has been climbing for 19 years.[1][2][3][4] He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.

Biography

Yeganeh started climbing at age 12 (1993). He lived in the mountains that surround Tehran and he would accompany his father and his friends on climbs. The first time he went to Band-e Yakhchal to mountain climb, he climbed a 5.10c route on-sight on Chakme. His interest in the sport, advice available to him and his abilities enabled him to successfully pass many climbing courses. This experience and judgment was a key factor to be a good teacher and coach in climbing. His competition performance resulted in him being awarded many medals in this sport.

Yeganeh was elected as one of the five members among sport climbing experts over Tehran province to make Tehran climbing league’s statute. [5][6][7] Then, he participated as a first Iranian Alpine Club’s representative in bouldering world cup of 2009 in France.[8][9] As he truly is well known for lead climbing, he also solo climbed two routes.[10] Currently, Artimes and Amin Abbasi are the only Iranian official route setters.[11]

Positions

Here are some positions he has held:

  • 2007 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
  • 2008 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
  • 2009 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
  • 2010 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
  • 2011 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
  • 2013 – Tehran Rebolting Committee
  • 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
  • 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
  • 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
  • 2009 – Tehran League founding member

Coaching

Coaching certificates

  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 1
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 2
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 3
  • Rock Climbing Federation of Germany – Sport Climbing Coach Level 1, Level 2 and Level C1

Coaching experience

Gym Time
Emam Ali University 2003-2006
Army 2005-2006
Davoudi 2005-2008
Tarbiat Modarres University Climbing Gym 2005-current
ArmenianClimbing Gym Sipan 2012-current
Payam Climbing Gym 2015-current
Raspina Welness Climbing Gym 2016-current
MSFI Sport Climbing National Team Coach 2014-current

Route setting

Route Setting certificates

  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 1
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 2
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – National Sport Climbing Route Setter
  • AFSC – Continental Sport Climbing Route Setter

[11]

Route setting experiences

  • Chief Route Setter [5]
  • 2009 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship
  • 2007 – Chief Route Setter–Junior and Youth National Championship,
  • 2006 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
  • 2007 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
  • 2011 – Route Setter–Master Cup international Competition
  • 2012 – Route Setter–Asian Championships
  • 2015 – Route Setter – Asian Youth Championship
  • 2014 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship

[11]

Judging

Judging certificates

  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing National Judge

National team memberships

  • Junior National Team
    • 1999
  • National Team
    • 2003
    • 2004 – China, Asian Championship
    • 2005 – Kerman (IRI), UIAA Asian Championship
    • 2006 – Kaoshiung (TPE), UIAA Asian Championships
    • 2007 – Qinghai (CHN), IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S)
    • 2009 – France, Bouldering Worldcup

[1][2][3][4][8][9][12][13][14][15][16][17][18][19]

Ranks and medals

IFSC Climbing Worldcup

2009
Bouldering 26

[1][2][3][4][8][9][14][17][20][21][22]

UIAA Asian Championships

2005 2006
Lead 19 10

[1][2][3][12][13][15][16][23]

Fajr championships

1998 2002 2006
Lead 3 3 2

[24]

National championships

2002 2006
Lead 3 1

Tehran Province championships

2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2012 2013 2014
Lead 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2
Lead 2

[5]

Tehran Province League

2010 2011
Lead 1 1

[25]

Groups Cup

2000
Lead 2

Solo

  • Mashalah, 7c, 20 meters, Overhanging & Roof, Kermanshah, Iran, 2006, first ascent
  • Gordefa, 7a+, 25 meters, Polokhab, Iran, 2006, first ascent

Onsight

Here are some of his first ascent climbs:

Year Name Grade
2001 Speed 7c+
2002 Ashiane 8a+
2003 Iran 7c+
2004 Iran Swiss 8b+
2005 Khashol 7c
2006 Khoke chamosh 7c+
2007 Ashianedoe 8b+
2009 Solo 8b+/8c
2010 Tehran Guy 8a
2011 Father & Son 8a+

Roc Trips

  • Petzl 2008
  • Petzl 2009
  • Petzl 2014

[26]

Filmography

Route

Here are some of the routes he bolted:

Year Name Grade
2006 Khashol 7c
2006 Pichol 8b
2007 Khoke chamosh 7c+
2009 O+ 7c
2008 Solo 8c,8c+
2009 Emperor project 8c/8c+
2007 Ashianedoe 8b+
2010 Tehran guys 8a
2011 Gladiator Project 8c+/9a
2011 Father and Son 8a+
2013 Vampire 8c
2014 Ati 7b+

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  2. 1 2 3 4 "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital ROCK. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 9 December 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  3. 1 2 3 4 "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital ROCK. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  4. 1 2 3 "آخرین تایج مسابقات جهانی تا این لحظه". Binalood. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  5. 1 2 3 "Saeid Jaryani won the 5th round of Tehran's climbing league". Iran Mountain Zone. 15 December 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  6. ↑ "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Iran Mountain Zone. 23 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  7. ↑ "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Alpine Cub of Iran. 21 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  8. 1 2 3 "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Iran Mountain Zone. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  9. 1 2 3 "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Alpine Climb of Iran. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  10. 1 2 "MASHALAH {7C}". Mandis Tafreshian. 23 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  11. 1 2 3 "Officials Resources". IFSC-Climbing.org. 7 August 2014. Retrieved 1 November 2014.
  12. 1 2 "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". Digital ROCK. 23 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  13. 1 2 "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". Digital ROCK. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  14. 1 2 "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". Digital ROCK. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  15. 1 2 "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". IFSC Climbing. 23 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  16. 1 2 "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  17. 1 2 "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  18. ↑ "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006 Startlists". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  19. ↑ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  20. ↑ "Ergebnis: Lead-Weltcup in Qinghai (CHN) - Herren". Ergebnis. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  21. ↑ "Re: 20070811青海世界盃最新成績公告". mountaineering.org.tw. 15 August 2007. Archived from the original on 14 October 2015. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  22. ↑ "IFSC Lead World Cup – Qinghai(CHN) 2007" (PDF). ffme. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  23. ↑ "UIAA Asian Championship Iran 2005". IFSC and DR. 24 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  24. ↑ "10th Fajr Climbing Championship in men's category came to its end". Iran Mountain Zone. 24 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  25. ↑ "TMU club fixed in its place at the top of Tehran Climbing League". Iran Mountain Zone. 9 July 2011. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  26. ↑ "Roctrip im Zillertal: Zwischen Kuhglocken und Ultimate Route". klettern. 29 August 2008. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
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