Okinawa Island

History of Ryukyu
Periods Prehistoric pre–14,000 BC Early Shell Mound 14,000–300 BC Middle Shell Mound 300 BC–750 AD Late Shell Mound 750–1187 Gusuku 1187–1314 Sanzan 1314–1429 First Shō Dynasty 1429–1469 Second Shō Dynasty 1469–1879 Invasion of Ryūkyū 1609 Ryūkyū Domain 1872–1879 Annexation of Ryūkyū 1879 Meiji 1879–1912 Taishō 1912–1926 Pre-World War 2 1926–1945 Militarism Battle of Okinawa 1945 American Occupation 1945–1972 Koza riot 1970 Okinawa Prefecture 1972–present Kagoshima Prefecture 1953–present
Topics Ryukyu Kingdom 1429–1879 Ryukyu independence movement 1945–present

Early Okinawan history is defined by midden or shell heap culture, and is divided into Early, Middle, and Late Shell Mound periods. The Early Shell Mound period was a hunter-gatherer society, with wave-like opening Jōmon pottery. In the latter part of this period, archaeological sites moved near the seashore, suggesting the engagement of people in fishing. On Okinawa, rice was not cultivated until the Middle Shell Mound period. Shell rings for arms made of shells obtained in the Sakishima Islands, namely Miyakojima and Yaeyama islands, were imported by Japan. In these islands, the presence of shell axes, 2500 years ago, suggests the influence of a southeastern-Pacific culture.[7][8]

The first Ryukyuan mission to Edo, the capital of Tokugawa Japan

After the Late Shell Mound period, agriculture started about the 12th century, with the center moving from the seashore to higher places. This period is called the Gusuku period. Gusuku is the term used for the distinctive Ryukyuan form of castles or fortresses. Many gusukus and related cultural remains in the Ryukyu Islands have been listed by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites under the title Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryukyu. There are three perspectives regarding the nature of gusukus: 1) a holy place, 2) dwellings encircled by stones, 3) a castle of a leader of people. In this period, porcelain trade between Okinawa and other countries became busy, and Okinawa became an important relay point in eastern-Asian trade. Ryukyuan kings, such as Shunten and Eiso, were important rulers. An attempted Mongolian invasion in 1291 during the Eiso Dynasty ended in failure. Hiragana was imported from Japan by Ganjin in 1265. Noro, village priestesses of the Ryukyuan religion, appeared.

The Sanzan period began in 1314, when the kingdoms of Hokuzan and Nanzan declared independence from Chūzan. The three kingdoms competed with one another for recognition and trade with Ming China. King Satto, leading Chūzan, was very successful, establishing relations with Korea and Southeast Asia as well as China. The Hongwu Emperor sent 36 families from Fujian in 1392 at the request of the Ryukyuan King. Their job was to manage maritime dealings in the kingdom. They assisted the Ryukyuans in developing their technology and diplomatic relations. In 1407, however, a man named Hashi overthrew Satto's descendant, King Bunei, and installed his own father, Shishō, as king of Chūzan.

The last King Shō Tai

In 1429, King Shō Hashi completed the unification of the three kingdoms and founded the Ryūkyū Kingdom with its capital at Shuri Castle. His descendants would conquer the Amami Islands. In 1469, King Shō Taikyū died, so the royal government chose a man named Kanemaru as the new king, who chose the name Shō En and established the Second Shō Dynasty. His son, Shō Shin would then conquer the Sakishima Islands and centralize the royal government, the military, and the noro priestesses.

In 1609, the Japanese domain of Satsuma launched an invasion of the Ryukyu Kingdom, ultimately capturing the king and his capital after a long struggle. Ryukyu was forced to cede the Amami Islands and become a vassal of Satsuma. The kingdom became both a tributary of China and a tributary of Japan. Because China would not make a formal trade agreement unless a country was a tributary state, the kingdom was a convenient loophole for Japanese trade with China. When Japan officially closed off trade with European nations except the Dutch, Nagasaki, Tsushima, and Kagoshima became the only Japanese trading ports offering connections with the outside world.

A number of Europeans visited Ryukyu starting in the late 18th century. The most important visits to Okinawa were from Captain Basil Chamberlain in 1816 and Commodore Matthew C. Perry in 1852. A Christian missionary, Bernard Jean Bettelheim, lived in the Gokoku-ji temple in Naha from 1846 to 1854.

In 1879, Japan annexed the entire Ryukyu archipelago.[9] The Meiji government then established Okinawa Prefecture. The monarchy in Shuri was abolished and the deposed king Shō Tai (1843–1901) was forced to relocate to Tokyo.

American troops in Okinawa, June 27, 1945

Hostility against Japan increased in the islands immediately after the annexation in part because of the systematic attempt on the part of Japan to eliminate Ryukyuan culture, including the language, religion, and cultural practices.

Okinawa Island had the bloodiest ground battle of the Pacific War from April 1, 1945 to June 22, 1945. During this 82-day-long battle, about 95,000 Imperial Japanese Army troops and 20,195 Americans were killed. The Cornerstone of Peace at the Peace Memorial Park in Itoman lists 149,193 persons from Okinawa – approximately one quarter of the civilian population – were either killed or committed suicide during the Battle of Okinawa and the Pacific War.[10] Very few Japanese ended up in POW camps. This may have been due to Japanese soldiers' reluctance to surrender. The total number of casualties shocked American military strategists. This made them apprehensive to invade the other main islands of Japan, because it would result in very high casualties.[11][12][13]

Japan became a pacifist country with the 1947 constitution. So America was obligated to protect Japan against foreign threats. During the American military occupation of Japan (1945–52), which followed the Imperial Japanese surrender on September 2, 1945, in Tokyo Bay, the United States controlled Okinawa Island and the rest of the Ryukyu Islands. The Amami Islands were returned to Japanese control in 1953. The remaining Ryukyu Islands were returned to Japan on June 17, 1972. America kept numerous U.S. military bases on the islands. There are 32 United States military bases on Okinawa Island [14] in accordance with the U.S.-Japan alliance since 1951. US bases on Okinawa played critical roles in the Korean War, Vietnam War, War in Afghanistan, and Iraq War.

In 2013, following escalating tensions following competing claims to the uninhabited Senkaku Islands, the People's Republic of China began laying claims to the island of Okinawa.[15][16]

On 31 October 2019, the main courtyard structures of Shurijo were destroyed in a fire.[17] This is the fifth time that Shurijo was destroyed following previous incidents in 1453, 1660, 1709 and 1945.[18]

Kokusai Street in Naha

As of September, 2009, the Japanese government estimates the population at 1,384,762,[3] which includes American military personnel and their families. The Okinawan language, called Uchinaaguchi, is spoken mostly by the elderly.[19] But several local groups promote the use of the Okinawan language by younger people.[20]

Whereas the northern half of Okinawa Island is sparsely populated, the south-central and southern parts of the island are markedly urbanized—particularly the city of Naha and the urban corridor stretching north from there to Okinawa City. The population distribution is approximately 120,000 in Northern Okinawa, 590,000 in Central Okinawa and 540,000 in Southern Okinawa. It has a high population density of 1,014.93 people per km2.[21]

Since 1609 when the Ryukyu islands became a vassal of the Satsuma Domain, there has been major migration of Japanese to Okinawa. The modern inhabitants of Okinawa are mainly ethnic Okinawan, Japanese, half Japanese and mixed.

Five times as many Okinawans become 100 years old compared to the rest of Japan. The Okinawan diet consist of low-fat, low-salt foods, such as whole fruits and vegetables, legumes, tofu, and seaweed. Okinawans are known for their longevity. This particular island is a so-called Blue Zone, an area where the people live longer than most others elsewhere in the world.[22] As of 2002 there were 34.7 centenarians for every 100,000 inhabitants, which is the highest ratio worldwide.[23]^:131–132 Possible explanations are diet, low-stress lifestyle, caring community, activity, and spirituality of the inhabitants of the island.[23]

Map of Okinawa Island, not showing road bridges that have since been built.

Okinawa is the fifth largest island of Japan. The island has an area of 1,206.99 square kilometers (466.02 sq mi). The coastline is 476 kilometers (296 mi) long.[24] The straight-line distance is about 106.6 kilometers (66.2 mi) from north to south.[25] Okinawa is in the northeastern end of Okinawa Prefecture. Since 1972 over 1,000 hectares (2,500 acres) of land reclamation was conducted.

It is roughly 640 kilometres (400 mi) south of the main island of Kyushu. Okinawa is connected to nearby islands near a land bridge: Katsuren Peninsula is connected via the Mid-Sea Road to Henza Island, Miyagi Island, Ikei Island, and Hamahiga Island. Similarly, from the Motobu Peninsula on the northwestern side, all of Sesoko-jima plus Yagaji Island and Kōri-jima are connected by bridges. Okinawa Island has several beaches such as Manza Beach, Emerald Beach, Okuma Beach, Zanpa Beach, Moon Beach and Sunset Beach (Chatan-cho).

Mount Yonaha is the highest mountain with 503 m (1,650 ft) in Kunigami, Okinawa. It is the second highest mountain in Okinawa Prefecture after Mount Omoto 525.5 m (1,724 ft) in Ishigaki, Okinawa.[26]

In the north are mainly igneous rocks. and Mount Yae and Nagodake. The northern region has a slightly large river and very little flat land. Acidity of the soil is distributed and there's e.g. pineapple cultivation.[27] The northern region has the Yanbaru subtropical rainforest. The Motobu Peninsula has limestone layers and karst development.[28]

In the center and south is mainly a Ryukyu limestone layer and mudstone.[28] The topography is flat, there are few hills over 100 m (328 ft) with very few rivers. In the southern region is karst topography with limestone that is easily eroded. The subtropical accelerated erosion so there are many drainages and uvala. There are many caves. The Gyokusendō cave has beautiful stalagmites and stalactites in the theme park Okinawa World, Nanjo. It is about five kilometers long. Only 890 meters are open to tourists.

The southern end of the island consists of uplifted coral reef, whereas the northern half has proportionally more igneous rock. The easily eroded limestone of the south has many caves, the most famous of which is Gyokusendō in Nanjō. An 850 m-long stretch is open to tourists.

The northernmost Cape Hedo is only 22 km (14 mi) away from Yoronjima. Cape Arasaki is the southernmost location of Okinawa island. It's sometimes confused with Cape Kiyanmisaki.

There are many local pubs (izakaya) and cafes that serve Okinawan cuisine and dishes, such as gōyā chanpurū (bitter melon stir fry), fu chanpurū (wheat gluten chanpurū), and tonkatsu (tenderized, breaded, fried pork cutlet). Okinawan soba is the signature dish and consists of wheat noodles served hot in a soup, usually with pork (rib or pork belly). This contrasts with the mainland soba, which is buckwheat noodles. Rafute, which is braised pork belly, is another popular Okinawan dish. American presence on the island has also led to some creative dishes such as taco rice, which is now a common meal served in bentos, and common use of spam.

Farmland in Okinawa

Among the prefectures of Japan, Okinawa has the youngest and fastest-growing population, but has the lowest employment rate and average income. The island economy is primarily driven by tourism and the US military presence, with efforts in recent years to diversify into other sectors.[31]

The Motobu Peninsula has a large-scale quarry and cement factory due to the presence of limestone and karst.[32] There is also agriculture with tropical fruit such as Malpighia emarginata.[33]

F-15C Eagles of the 18th Wing, Kadena Air Base

US military bases in Okinawa

The United States maintains American military bases in Japan as part of the U.S.-Japan alliance since 1951. Most US military are in Okinawa Prefecture. In 2013 there were approximately 50,000 U.S. military personnel stationed in Japan with 40,000 dependents and 5,500 American civilians employed by the United States Department of Defense.[38] About 26,000 US military personnel are on Okinawa Island.

There are 32 United States military bases on Okinawa Island.[14] Approximately 62% of all United States bases in Japan are on Okinawa.[39][40] They cover 25% of Okinawa island. The major bases are Futenma, Kadena, Hansen, Torii, Schwab, Foster, and Kinser.[41] There are 28 US military facilities on Okinawa. They are mainly concentrated in the central area. 8 out of 10 central municipalities have US facilities.

At one point Okinawa hosted approximately 1,200 nuclear warheads.[42] There were several nuclear weapons incidents on Okinawa and in the sea near the islands.[43][44][45]

The 1971 Okinawa Reversion Agreement officially ended the U.S. military occupation on Okinawa.[46]

Okinawa has various historical buildings and monuments. Such as feudal castles, ruins, UNESCO and other historical significant sites.

• Shuri Castle is the most famous castle on Okinawa and an UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• Nakagusuku Castle is a gusuku in the village of Kitanakagusuku, Okinawa. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the 100 most famous castles in Japan.[54]
• The Cornerstone of Peace monument in Itoman commemorates the Battle of Okinawa and the end of World War II.[55] Nearby is the Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial Museum.
• Nakamura House (ja:中村家住宅 (沖縄県)) is an original 18th-century farmhouse in Kitanakagusuki.
• The former Japanese Navy Underground HQ (ja:海軍司令部壕)
• Katsuren Castle
• Nakijin Castle

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  Shuri Castle in Naha
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  Shureimon
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  Nakagusuku Castle ruins
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  Cornerstone of Peace monument
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  Nakamura house

Shuri Castle Festival in Naha

There are multiple festivals on Okinawa throughout the year.[56]

• Shurijo Castle Park New Year's Celebration - January
• Cherry Blossom Festival - January, February
• Naha Hari Festival - May
• Orion Beerfest - August
• Eisa Dancers Parade - August
• Shuri Castle Festival - October
• Naha Great Tug-of-War Festival - October
• The Ryukyu Dynasty Festival Shuri - November

Okinawa Island is featured in various movies, games, anime and manga.

• Teahouse of the August Moon (1956), starring Marlon Brando and Glenn Ford, was based on the hit Broadway play. The storyline of the play and the film were set on Okinawa, but actual filming took place in mainland Japan near Nara and in a studio in California.[58]

• Okinawa was the setting for the 1974 Japanese science fiction kaiju film Godzilla vs. Mechagodzilla, which featured a shisa dog as one of the monsters in the film; due to an awkward translation from Japanese to English, this monster is known in the film as King Caesar. Several scenes were filmed in the then-recently discovered Gyokusendo caves.

• Okinawa was also the setting for the 1986 film The Karate Kid, Part II, in which Mr. Miyagi (Pat Morita) returns home to Okinawa with his student Daniel LaRusso (Ralph Macchio). Although Okinawa was the setting for the film, only short scenes of the film were actually filmed on Okinawa.

• A number of games in the Yakuza franchise are set partially on Okinawa: main protagonist Kazuma Kiryu sets up and runs an orphanage on the island.

• Okinawa was the setting of the World War II fighting in the 2016 movie Hacksaw Ridge, detailing the true story of US soldier Desmond Doss.

• Okinawa was the setting for the horror anime series Blood+ and sports manga Harukana Receive.

• Okinawa was also the setting for the 2018 Japanese superhero kaiju film Ultraman Geed the Movie.

• In Quentin Tarantino's 2003 film Kill Bill Vol. 1, protagonist Beatrix Kiddo travels to Okinawa in order to obtain a katana from master bladesmith Hattori Hanzo.

• Geography of Japan
• Japanese archipelago
• History of the Ryukyu Islands
  • Ryukyu Kingdom
    • List of monarchs of Ryukyu Islands
    • Shō Dynasties family tree
• Okinawan martial arts

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  Okinawa Island is the home of Tsuboya-yaki, pottery in the Ryūkyūan tradition.
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  Bullfighting (Tōgyū) arena. Okinawa is the home of a form of bullfighting sometimes compared to sumo

• Okinawa Island travel guide from Wikivoyage