Trex (card game)

The player who takes the trick containing the king of hearts loses 75 points in standard setting. When the contract is announced, the player who has the king of hearts has the option of revealing it to the other players and in doing so doubling its value. Hence, this process is called "doubling". If the player doubling the card fails, and collects it, he or she is reduced 75 points. Oppositely, If another player collects it when it is "doubled" he or she is reduced 150 points (double the standard value) and the player who originally had it gets 75 points.

One common strategy followed in the pursuit of forcing the card's holder to collect it him or herself is for players to purposely lead hearts when possible.

If this contract is chosen and a player holds either the king of hearts alone, the ace of hearts alone, or the king of hearts and the Ace of hearts, he or she may request that the hand be re-dealt. This is because such a player would most probably collect the card, which would be unfair for him or her! The player making the appeal should show all his or her cards to the other players. If this happens the replayed contract does not have to be King of Hearts.

Each card of the diamond suit taken in a trick costs 10 points off the running total of the collecting player. In some variations the collected diamonds are kept face up in front of the players taking them so that everyone can see which diamonds have been taken, and/or played, although this is not the standard method of play. Normally they are not shown.

Each queen taken in a trick costs the collecting player 25 points. Queens are stored face up in front of the winner of the trick in which they were played. Queens can also be doubled, causing the player who collects a doubled queen to be reduced 50 points and the one giving it to gain 25 points. If a doubled queen is collected it has a card placed over its half. Among some Trex players this is called "a blanket to keep her warm". If a normal queen is collected it has a card placed under its half. This is called "a pillow for her head".

Each trick taken costs the collecting player 15 points.

Despite its name, this is the only contract that is not a trick-taking game, but a game of the Card Domino family. Players try to get rid of their cards as soon as they can by playing them to a layout, which begins with the jacks, and continues upwards in each suit to the ace and downwards to the two. The dealer begins and play continues counter-clockwise. Players must play one card if they can. Legal plays are: any jack, or any card that is one rank higher or lower than a card that has already been played. If you are unable to play, you pass. The first player who runs out of cards scores plus 200 points. The others continue playing and the second scores plus 150 points, the third plus 100 points and the last gets plus 50 points.

If Trex is announced, any player who holds four twos or three twos and the three of the fourth suit can require the cards to be thrown in. The cards are shuffled and redealt, and the dealer can choose any contract that he has not already played (including Trex).

The game is repeated if a suit is closed without all jacks on the table

• Open with the suit with the fewest cards, try to run out.
• Keep track how many cards are out of your hand from each suit, and how many have been played.
• Remember what suit each player opened with.
• When someone plays a very low rank (2's and 3's), that usually means they ran out, or almost ran out of that suit.
• When playing partners, it might be a good idea to keep one high value card of a suit your partner still has, so they can hand you the game when they are stuck.
• Except in very rare cases, you should never play a suit that every other player ran out of (called tlata'shawy meaning thirteen).
• Tafreesh, is forcing an opponent to collect a trick when all the remaining cards in their hands are either very high or tlata'shawy, in that case they hand a trick to anyone else.
• Assuming you have a good hand for multiple contracts, you should choose in this order of importance: Trex, king of hearts, queens, slaps, diamonds.
  • Queens can be more important than king in partners if you can double two queens.

Generally, the king of hearts is an important game, and the easiest to pick if the player has the right cards. One should choose this contract and double the king if they (in order of risk):

1. Have 5 or more hearts including the king (protected king)
2. Have 3-4 hearts of high value (the ace and queen are helpful) including the king, with 2 or less cards of at least one other suit.
3. Have 3-4 hearts including the king with 1 or less cards of at least one other suit.

If the player doesn't have the king of hearts, they should choose this contracts only if all other contracts available are extremely risky, because they might lose the chance to double the king and give an opponent the chance to control the game. It's important to have a high number (4 or more) of high value hearts. It's also preferable to have low values (2's and 3's) in the other suits, to avoid collecting the king of hearts on a trick of another suit.

If you have the king, start with the suit with the fewest cards until you run out, then you can play the king on that suit if your opponent will collect it.

If you have 7 or more high value hearts including the king, you can almost guarantee success if you lead with hearts until everyone runs out, then play all your high value cards from the other suits, and hand the game to another player with a low value card.

Keep an eye out for the ace of hearts, if you count cards correctly, you might be able to lead with the king when an opponent has the ace alone in their hand.

When playing partners and the king is on your left, try not to play hearts until your partner does so, to make sure they don't have the ace in their hand. If they do, you should play a suit they ran out of to let them get rid of the ace.

If your partner opened with a card other than 2, and that suit was played one time only, make sure to play a high rank of that suit to make sure your partner ran out before wasting your low rank card.

If you have only high cards of the suit your partner ran out of, keep playing that suit (high to low) until your partner runs out of another one, or an opponent is forced to collect.

If you know for a fact that the player on your right has the ace of hearts, and your partner has the king, it could be possible to lead with hearts to force them to play the ace.

The strategy for picking queens is the same for the king of hearts, except it applies to all suits. It is preferable to be able to double at least two queens when you pick this contract, but not necessary. Queens in your hand that you cannot double can at least assure that no one else will double them, and you can mediate the loss from collecting one with a doubled queen given to an opponent.

Same as the king of hearts except it applies to all suits. Also, you have to pay to keep track of both kings and aces of each suit.

It is always preferable to collect a non-doubled queen if you can make your opponent collect a doubled queen.

Queens is usually an economic game, where you have to weigh your wins and losses.

Tafreesh (see above) is a very common strategy in this contract, and especially useful when you have a queen with a lot of protection of low ranks.

Diamonds is the go-to contract when you have no other contracts to pick, since each diamond is worth -10 and usually they are distributed between multiple players. A perfect diamond hand is a hand with a lot of low rank diamonds (especially a 2), and generally low rank cards of other suits (although with a hand like that it might be preferable to pick slaps because it's a riskier game). You can also pick the game if you have only one or two very low rank diamonds. Having another suit with one or two cards is also important, especially if you have high ran diamonds.

Generally similar to other trick games. Keep an eye out for high rank diamonds and avoid playing tlata'shawy.

It's also a good idea to keep at least one high-mid rank diamond to allow your partner to hand you the game if they are stuck.

If you're the one who picked diamonds, it's preferable to wait for your partner to lead with diamonds, because usually that means you're the one with low rank diamonds.

If allowed in your game, open with a diamond card if you have only one (or two) mid-rank diamond).

Pick slaps if you have generally low cards, and preferably a suit with one or two cards, so you can run out and get rid of your high rank cards.

If playing partners, don't pick slaps if you only have low ranks, because your partner's hand might be terrible and keeping a high card will allow them to give hand the game to you.

When an early game trick has low or medium ranks, and you can leave it, it's preferable to leave it (unless your partner is the one collecting it).

In late game, if you counted the cards correctly, you can take a trick with a high card and play a low card after, giving it back to an opponent, usually resulting in tafreesh.

Sometimes it's better to lead with high cards so you won't collect tricks in late game as above.

Make sure to play a suit that your partner ran out of to let them get rid of their high ranks, here you might have to play tlata'shawy, it's risky but can help when you want to help your partner avoid tafreesh.

Trex is usually the most important and decisive contract (especially in partners), and it's the only positive score game (outside of doubling). Trex favors higher value hands, especially queens through aces. Also having mid rank cards of the same suit in order (e.g. 4, 5, 6 of hearts) is very helpful. Having 2's is detrimental, especially in partners where you have to reveal them. Furthermore, having no cards of a suit, or having only a queen or higher of a suit will make the game significantly harder on you because you can't control the game and you'll have to play cards for your opponents. Having a lonely jack, and no other jacks, is also detrimental because you'll have to play it immediately. On the other hand, having 10, J, Q of a suit gives you the best start, because you will not affect the game, and will force other players to play the jacks that you need.

Generally, play the cards you need (based on your 2's and your partner's), then play non risk cards (aces, 2's, and cards that where you have the successor), then low risk cards (queens, kings, 3's, and cards where a successor with one card separation), then other cards.

When forced to play cards for your opponent, try to focus on only one suit, preferably the one you have the most of.

Sometimes, you might have to keep a card that you or your partner need in your hand, to force a player to play another card that you also need.

If someone is passing, and you have to play a card for an opponent (especially a 3), try to play cards for the one passing. That way, you make sure that the others will be force to play your cards.

Make sure to see how many cards each player has before playing a card in the late game.

In partners, remember that 2nd and 3rd is the same as 1st and 4th, no need to risk your game if you're not sure that your partner will be first.