Mazandaran Province

Part of a series on the History of Tabaristan
Prehistoric archaeology Huto and Kamarband Caves Gomeyshan Cave Gohar Tepe
Early inhabitants Amardians Derbices Tapurians
Early Sasanian houses House of Ispahbudhan House of Karen House of Mihran
Last Sasanian rulers Karenvand dynasty (550s–11th-century) Dabuyid dynasty (642–760) Bavand dynasty (651–1349) Masmughans of Damavand (651–760) Paduspanids (655–1598)
Early Shia rulers Alids (864–900, 914–928) Asfar ibn Shiruya (928–930) Ziyarid dynasty (930–1090) Buyid dynasty (934–1062) Nizari Ismaili state (1090–1256) Sarbadars (1337–1381) Afrasiyab dynasty (1349–1504) Jalalid dynasty (1349–1359) Marashis (1359–1596) Ruzafzun (1518–?)
Modern period Pahlavi dynasty Mazandaran Province
Iran portal

Before the arrival of the Iranian-speakers to Iran, native people of this area were subsistence hunters and cattle herders. Archaeological studies in caves belt and Hutu man in Behshahr in the Mazandaran date to ca. 9500 BCE. The Amard were a tribe living along the mountainous region bordering the Caspian Sea, including current day Amol.

Hyrcanian Golden Cup, dating from the 9th century BCE). It was excavated at Kalardasht in Mazandaran

The territory known as Mazandaran has changed hands among various dynasties from early in its history. There are several fortresses remaining from the Parthian Empire and Sasanian Empire, and many older cemeteries scattered throughout the province. During this era, Mazandaran was part of Hyrcania, which was one of the important provinces. In 662 CE, ten years after the death of Yazdegerd III the last Sasanian emperor, a large Muslim army under the command of Hassan ibn Ali invaded Tabarestan.

With the advent of the Sasanian Empire, the King of Mazandaran (Tabaristan and Padashkhwargar) was Gushnasp,[23] whose ancestors had reigned in the area (under the Parthian empire) since the time of Alexander the Great. In 529–536, Mazandaran was ruled by the Sasanian prince Kawus, son of Kawadh.[23] Anushirawan, the Sasanian king, defeated Zarmihr, who claimed his ancestry from the legendary blacksmith Kaveh.[23] This dynasty ruled the area till 645 AD, when Gil Gilanshah (a descendant of the Sasanian king Jamasp and a son of Piruz) joined Mazandaran to Gilan.[23]

In 651 the Sasanid Empire fell, and all of the Sasanid domains gradually came under Arab control, except for the Caspian region of Iran (among which Tabaristan).

Tabaristan maintained an existence independent of the Umayyad Caliphate which supplanted the Sasanian Empire in the early seventh century, with independent Zoroastrian houses like the Bavand and Karen fighting an effective guerilla warfare against Islam. A short-lived Alid Shiite state collapsed before the subsequent take-over by the Ziyarid princes. Mazandaran, unlike much of the rest of the Iranian Plateau maintained a Zoroastrian majority until the 12th century, thanks to its isolation and hardy population which fought against the Caliph's armies for centuries. During the post-Islamic period the local dynasties fell into three classes: local families of pre-Islamic origin; the ʿAlid sayyid; and local families of secondary importance.[23]

Map of the Mazandaran Alavid emirate (864-929 AD).

The Bawandids, who claimed descent from Kawus, provided three dynasties.[23] The first dynasty (665–1007) was overthrown on the conquest of Tabaristan by the Ziyarid Kabus b. Wushmgir.[23] The second dynasty reigned from 1073 to 1210, when Mazandaran was conquered by 'Ala al-Din Muhammad Khwarzamshah.[23] The third ruled from 1237 to 1349 as vassals of the Mongols.[23] The last representative of the Bawandids was killed by Afrasiyab Chulawi.[23]

Gohar Tape Archaeological site

The Karinids claimed descent from Karin, brother of Zarmihr who was the pre-Islamic ruler under the Sasanians.[23] Their last representative Mazyar was put to death in 839.[23]

The Paduspanids claimed descent from the Dabuyid of northern.[23] They came to the front about 660 and during the rule of the ʿAlids were their vassals. Later, they were vassals of the Buyids and Bawandids, who deposed them in 1190.[23] The dynasty, restored in 1209–10, survived till the time of Timur; the branch descended from Kawus the son of Kayumarth reigned till 1567 and the other, that of Iskandar the son of Kayumarth, till 1574.[23]

In the 9th-11th century AD, there were repetitively military raids undertaken by the Rus' between 864 and 1041 on the Caspian Sea shores of Iran, Azerbaijan, and Dagestan as part of the Caspian expeditions of the Rus'.[24] Initially, the Rus' appeared in Serkland in the 9th century traveling as merchants along the Volga trade route, selling furs, honey, and slaves. The first small-scale raids took place in the late 9th and early 10th century. The Rus' undertook the first large-scale expedition in 913; having arrived on 500 ships, they pillaged the westernmost parts of Gorgan as well as Mazandaran and Gilan, taking slaves and goods.

In the Safavid era Mazandaran was settled by very large amounts of Georgians, Circassians, Armenians, and other Peoples of the Caucasus, whose descendants still live or linger across Mazandaran. Towns, villages and neighbourhoods in Mazandaran still bear the name "Gorji" (i.e., Georgian) in them, although most of the large amounts of Georgians, and Circassians are already assimilated into the mainstream Mazandaranis. The history of Georgian settlement is described by Iskandar Beg Munshi, the author of the 17th century Tarikh-e Alam-Ara-ye Abbasi, and both the Circassian and Georgian settlements by Pietro Della Valle, among other authors.[25]

Before the reign of Nader Shah, the province was briefly occupied by the Russian army in the aftermath of the Russo-Persian War (1722–23) and returned to Persia in 1735. Following the outcomes of the Russo-Persian War (1804–13) and the Russo-Persian War (1826–28) Russian influence in northern Iran, and especially Mazandaran and Gilan.

Mazandaran is located on the southern coast of the Caspian Sea. It is bordered clockwise by Golestan, Semnan and Tehran provinces.[26] This province also borders Qazvin and Gilan to the west. Mazandaran province is geographically divided into two parts: the coastal plains, and the mountainous areas. The Alborz Mountain Range surrounds the coastal strip and plains of the Caspian Sea. From the geographical point of view, Mazandaran province is divided into two parts i.e. coastal plain and the mountainous area. The Alborz Mountain Range like a huge wall has surrounded the coastal strip and plains of the Caspian Sea. Due to permanent sea breeze and local winds of the southern and eastern coasts of the Caspian Sea, sandy hills are formed, causing the appearance of a low natural barrier between the sea and plain. There is often snowfall in the Alborz regions, which run parallel to the Caspian Sea's southern coast, dividing the province into many isolated valleys. The province enjoys a moderate, subtropical climate with an average temperature of 25 °C in summer and about 8 °C in winter. Although snow may fall heavily in the mountains in winter, it rarely falls at sea level.

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  Caspian Sea coast at Noor
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  Shalizar (Rice Fields)
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  Pasturage
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  Aseman kuh (peak in Alborz range) viewed from Kahrizak Dare (lake), Lar.
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  Kafer Keli rock-cut dwellings, Larijan, Mount Damavand
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  Dyvasyab Mineral springs, Dasht-e Lar, Mount Damavand
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  Karaj Chalus Road
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  Javarom Forest Park
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  Damavand Mountain, The West Face, Mazandaran Province, Iran
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  Alborz Dam Lafoor

Ecoregions:

• Caspian Hyrcanian mixed forests
• Elburz Range forest steppe

The total wood production from these forests is estimated at 269,022 cubic metres (9,500,400 cu ft). Golestan National Park and Shastkolateh forest watershed are located in Golestan Province), Mazandaran Province (the total area of the Hyrcanian forest is estimated at 965,000 ha (2,380,000 acres). From these forests, 487,195 ha (1,203,890 acres) are used commercially, 184,000 ha (450,000 acres) are protected and the rest are regarded as forest lands or over-used forests. The total of the forest woods used in this province is estimated at 770,551 cubic metres (27,211,800 cu ft). The Kojoor, Dohezar and Sehezar forest watersheds are located in Mazandaran province. The Elburz Range forest steppe ecoregion is an arid, mountainous 1,000-kilometer arc south of the Caspian Sea, stretching across northern Iran from the Azerbaijan border to near the Turkmenistan border. It covers 63,300 square kilometres (24,400 sq mi) and encompasses the southern and eastern slopes of the Alborz Mountains as well as their summits. The Caspian Hyrcanian mixed forests ecoregion, with its lush green mountainsides and plains that receive moisture from the Caspian Sea, forms this ecoregion's northern border. The vast Central Persian desert basin ecoregion forms its southern border. The Alborz range is composed of a granite core overlain with sedimentary rock including limestones, shales, sandstones, and tuffs. Metamorphic rocks such as schists, marbles, and amphibolite are also widely found.[27] The climate is arid with annual precipitation varying from 150 mm to 500 mm, falling mostly as winter snow.

Caspian tiger and Caspian horse two animals that came from Mazandaran. Ramsar Convention also held in Mazandaran.

Relief map of Mazandaran area.

Unlike the rest of Iran, Mazanderan is watered by numerous rivers, or mountain torrents, all running from the mountains to the sea . The German traveller Gmelin, who visited this country a. d. 1771, says that in the space of eight miles, on the road from Resht to Amot, 250 of such streams are to be seen, many of them being so exceedingly broad and deep, that the passage across is sometimes impracticable for weeks together.

Mazandaran province naturally comes under the influence of the geographical latitude, Alborz heights, elevation from sea level, distance from the sea, and the southern barren areas of Turkmenistan, local and regional air currents, and versatile vegetation cover. Therefore, prompting the climate of the province to be divided into three types : Moderate Caspian weather with hot, humid summers, and mild, humid winters. Moderate mountainous weather with long, cold, and freezing winters and mild and short summers, and cold mountainous weather with long freezing winters and short cool summers. There is often snowfall during most of the seasons in the latter region, which continues till mid summer.

It has a variety of climates, including the mild and humid climate of Caspian shoreline and the moderate and cold climate of mountainous regions.

Central Alborz mountain range in Mazandaran Province

The western and central plains of the province, up to the northern foothills of Alborz Mountain Range, experience the mild climate of the Caspian region. In the 1,500- to 3,000-meter altitudes, there is a moderate mountainous climate, with long, cold winters, and short, mild summers. In this region, snow covers parts of the province even up to the middle of the warm season. In fact, snow can be observed in this region even in the warmest months of the year.

The population of the province has been steadily growing during the last 50 years. The following table shows the approximate province population, excluding the Golestan province, which has separated as an independent province in 1998.

The population is overwhelmingly Mazandarani, with a minority of Gilaks, Azerbaijanis, Georgians, Armenians, Circassians, Turkmen and others.

In recent years the region has seen an influx of Iranians from other regions of Iran, many of them attracted by its nature and seaside.

The following sorted table, lists the most populous cities in Mazandaran.

The Mazandaran train station is the city's first modern rail station and it dates from the Pahlavi dynasty.

Mazandaran is connected to Tehran by Haraz road (Amol-Rudehen), Kandovan road (Chalus-Karaj), and Firoozkooh road (Qaem Shahr-Rudehen).

Dasht-e Naz Airport, serving the capital Sari, Noshahr Airport, and Ramsar International Airport are the domestic airports that connect the province to the other parts of the country.

Iran North Railway Dept.
Gorgan Sabzdasht Bandar Torkaman Bandar Gaz Galoogah Tirtash Behshahr Rostamkola Amir Abad Neka Nobakht Sari Gooni Bafi Qaemshahr Shirgah Zirab Pol Sefid Savadkooh Sorkh Abad Veresk Dogol Gadook Firoozkooh Mahabad Zarrin Dasht Simin Dasht Kabootar Darreh Bonekooh To Tehran Dept.

Mazandaran is served by the North Railway Dept. of the Iranian Railways. The department connects the province to Tehran to the south and Gorgan to the east. The cities of Sari, Qaemshahr, and Pol Sefid are major stations of the department. The Trans-Iranian Railway was a major railway building project started in 1927 and completed in 1938, under the direction of the Iranian monarch, Reza Shah, and entirely with indigenous capital. It links the capital Tehran with the Persian Gulf and Caspian Sea.

Linguistic Map of Mazandaran Province

Mazanderani or Tabari is a Northwestern Iranian language. Various Mazandarani dialects exist which are spoken in Mazandaran province and the neighbor province Golestan such as Mazanderani, and Gorgani and possibly Qadikolahi (Ghadikolahi) and Palani. Today, Mazandaranis also use Persian (Western Persian)[4]. The educated can communicate and read Persian well.[29]

The people residing in Chalus speak Mazanderani language. People of Chalus speak Mazanderani language In the west of Chalus, the dialect of kalarestaqi [30]  is spoken and in the east of Chalus, the dialect of Kojuri [31] .

The people residing in Nowshahr speak Mazanderani language. People of Nowshahr speak Mazanderani language by the dialect of Kojuri [32] .

A slightly different version of the eastern dialect of the Gilaki language is spoken in the city of Ramsar.[33][34]

A dialect of Azeri is spoken in the town of Galoogah.[35]

The Battle History of Mazandaran

Caspian Sea Coast in Mazandaran

Kangelo Castle in Savadkuh

Huto and Kamarband Caves

Lake in Churet

Babolsar Sea

Baladeh Castle

Sangeno Waterfall

Gorji Mahaleh Jungle in Behshahr

Babol Museum

Haydar Amuli (Seyyed Se Tan) Tomb Tower in Amol, 15th century

Restek tower in Dodangeh District

Moalagh Bridge in Amol

Namak Abrood Tourist resort

Cheshmeh Emarat in Behshahr

Kolbadi House in Sari

In the Persian epic, Shahnameh, Mazandaran is mentioned in two different sections. The first mention is implicit, when Fereydun sets its capital in a city called Tamishe near Amol:

بیاراست گیتی بسان بهشت.................... به جای گیا سرو گلبن بکشت

از آمل گذر سوی تمیشه کرد .............. نشست اندر آن نامور بیشه کرد

And when Manuchehr is returning to Fereydun's capital, Tamisheh in Mazandaran (known as Tabarestan), after his victory over Salm and Tur[36]

In the second section, a region called Mazandaran is mentioned in the Kai Kavoos era; it is an area which is mostly inhabited by Div (demons). The legendary Iranian Shah Kaykavoos, as well as the Iranian hero Rostam, each take turn to go to Mazandaran in order to battle the demons.

In a verse from Shahnameh, Zal tells Kai Kavoos: "I heard troubling news that the king is planning to go to Mazandaran".

Forest in Mazandaran

However, this Mazandaran is not considered identical to the modern province of Mazandaran, and is instead a land to the west of Iran. The current province was simply considered a part of Tabaristan; the name Mazandaran is a later development, perhaps based upon local terminology.[37]

In Gaston Leroux's The Phantom of the Opera, one of the characters was formerly the daroga (chief of police) of Mazanderan.

The Tabarian New Year, or Neowrez, occurs in the pintek days of the Tabarian Calendar. In the Mazandarani language of Iran in the Mazanderani calendar, the year is divided into 12 thirty-day months and one pentad of days, often beginning on March 21. Neowrez Khani is one of the strongest and most popular traditions of the Mazanderani people.

Tirgan is a mid summer Iranian festival, celebrated annually on Tir 13 (July 3, 4, or 5). It is performed by splashing water, dancing, reciting poetry, and serving traditional foods such as spinach soup and shole-zard. The custom of tying rainbow-colored bands on wrists, which are worn for ten days and then thrown into a stream, is also a way to rejoice for children. Other famous events like, Varf chal, Traditional ceremony with almost 800 years old as one of the unique rituals of Mazandaran associated with water was held in the village of Ab Ask and Lochu Wrestling game in different time.

Music in this region relates to the lifestyle of the inhabitants, and the melodies revolve around issues such as the forests, cultivation or farming activities and herding. The most famous dance of this area is the Shomali dance, not forgetting the stick dance that the men perform. Popular music in province, known as the Taleb and Zohre, Amiri Khani and Katuli.

Kebab and Rice

The cuisine of the province is very rich in seafood due to its location by the Caspian Sea, and rice is present in virtually every meal. Mazandarani cuisine is diverse between regions; the cuisine of coastal regions is different from mountainous regions, as people in the Alborz usually use the indigenous herbs and coastal people use the dishes of fish and Caspian Mazandaran rice with vegetables.

Caviar

The province is one of the 5 wealthiest in Iran. Rice, grain, fruits, cotton, tea, tobacco, sugarcane, and silk are produced in the lowland strip along the Caspian shore. Oil wealth has stimulated industries in food processing, cement, textiles, cotton, and fishing (caviar). Iran's Cultural Heritage Organization lists close to 630 sites of historical and cultural significance, many of which are tourist attractions. Rice, grain, fruits, cotton, tea, tobacco, sugarcane, Flower, Mineral water, caviar, Dairy product, Meat industry and silk are produced in the lowland strip along the Caspian shore. Oil wealth has stimulated industries in food processing, cement, textiles, cotton, and fishing (caviar). Mazandaran, with 230,000 hectares of paddies, produces about one million tonnes of rice a year, or 42 percent of the country's total.[44] Over 70 kinds of agricultural produce are grown in Mazandaran that meets 40% of domestic demand for rice and 50% of citrus fruits. The province is also the sole domestic supplier of kiwi.[45] Mazandaran has 3,500 industrial and production units.

Iran Khodro a factory in Babol and The Iran Heavy Diesel Manufacturing Company Desa in Amol manufacturing heavy diesel engines from 200 to 3500 kW for railway, marine and power generation purposes and also Iran banknote printing and Security Paper Mill (TAKAB) and International Rice Trade Center at Amol. Iran wood & paper industries in Sari and Textiles company in Ghaemshahr.

Germany, Russia, Iraq, France Turkey, Kazakhstan, India, Malaysia, United Arab Emirates, Afghanistan, Belarus, Italy, Bahrain, Pakistan, Switzerland Ukraine, United States, Spain, Netherlands and Central Asian countries were Mazandaran's main export destinations during the period. The province in 2017 year exported close to $800 million worth of goods. in the previous year totally about 800 million dollars of non oil goods produced in Mazandaran were exported abroad half which were exported from customs outside the province.[46] هin 2017 year Main exports from the province consisted of dairy products (57%), food products (12%), industrial commodities (10%), pipes and profiles (8%) and cement (7%).[47]

Mazandaran is also a fast-growing centre for tourist, innovation, biotechnology and civil engineering.

From 1951 to 1978 and particularly after the formation of National Iranian Oil Company (NIOC), the first exploration well was spudded. Up to 1970, 16 wells had been drilled near mud volcanoes. All these wells produced only natural gas and technical studies showed that continuation of these operations would be uneconomical. 10 thousand tons export oil and Uncertain amount of gas exported to Asian countries from Mazandaran.

• 9th rank industrial units Iran
• 5th rank general industry Iran
• 4th rank tooling machines Iran
• 2nd rank coal Iran
• 1st rank livestock and agricultural products Iran
• 1st rank granite Iran
• 1st rank fluorine Iran
• 1st rank flowers and ornamental plants Iran
• 1st rank citrus exports Iran
• 1st rank food products exports Iran

Noshirvani University of Technology

Main universities of Mazandaran:

• University of Mazandaran, Babolsar
• Mazandaran University of Medical Sciences, Sari
• Babol Noshirvani University of Technology, Babol
• Babol University of Medical Sciences, Babol
• Sari Agricultural Sciences and Natural Resources University, Sari
• Shomal University, Amol
• Allameh Mohaddes Nouri University, Nur
• Imam Khomeini Naval University, Nowshahr
• University of Science and Technology of Mazandaran, Behshahr
• Iran University of Science and Technology, Nur

For the past several years Mazandaran has generated a consistent stream of wrestlers.[48] Football and volleyball are two other popular sports that have a lot of players in the Premier League and the national team. Weightlifting, Taekwondo, table tennis, boxing, kickboxing, kung fu, karate, rally car are other successful sports in the province. Kalleh Mazandaran VC and Shamoushak Noshahr F.C. and F.C. Nassaji Mazandaran are three famous teams in the province. Kalleh have twice won the Iranian Volleyball Super League championship and once the AVC Championship.

Mazandaran has hosted sports tournaments such as the Wrestling World Cup. Nine athletes from Mazandaran have received medals at the Olympic Games. In the 2016 Persian Gulf Pro League, fifty mazandarani players in different teams attended.