Male grooming

Male grooming refers to the activity where men invest time into their own fashion and beauty. The concept of male grooming has become increasingly visible in popular culture.[1]

Background and History

The history of male grooming dates back to the ancient Egypt civilization. Scholars consider the discovery of copper razors and oil on the skin as the origin of "grooming." When Alexander conquered the world and encouraged short and neat hairstyles, it made men feel less aware of the fashion trends of absolute monarchs such as Louis XIV, and more conscious of the fashions of their peers. Development of women's rights movements is another reason for the growth of interest in male grooming. As women continued to enter the workforce, it was believed men can compete if they also take good care of their appearance, an idea described as ‘body capital’.[2] Trend research institute ‘Interfashion Planning’ stated that “Men's enthusiasm for good looks is not a sudden trend. It is because the importance of human relations in the rat race to modern men living in uncertain times is increasing.” The ‘Grooming man’ considers appearance to be an investment to differentiate himself from his competitors, and as a method of self-development.[3] Also, as more metrosexuals care about their looks and fashion, the number of the ‘grooming men’ is increasing.[4]

The State of Grooming in Korea

South Korea has become the center of cosmetics for men in the world due to "appearance competition". In other words, men have decided to wear makeup to survive and compete during a severe job shortage. The Korean Wave, including K-pop, is heavily influential. As pop idols in their 20s and so-called "flower boys" [5]have become popular, the perception of men's makeup has changed. While it was once common for men who wore makeup to think of a Drag Queen or homosexual in western cultures, Korean male idols are different. They generally have clean skin, soft eyes, and delicate emotions, but perform dynamic and masculine duties. Men are encouraged to copy the makeup of Korean male idols. In fashion and beauty magazines overseas, there are many articles on skin care and makeup tutorials for Korean pop stars.[6]

The State of Grooming in China

As a "woman-like man" has become a new trend in China, a growing number of young men are interested in makeup. Internet broadcasters and beauty bloggers who produce makeup videos for men have increased rapidly. Accordingly, the men's cosmetics industry has shown rapid growth in China. According to German market research firm Statista, the size of men's cosmetics industry in China reached 201.3 billion yuan as of May 2018. Chinese e-commerce company JD.com said that the sales of beauty products for men more than doubled since 2015. Mask packs, BB cream, and lipstick are popular products.[7]

Types of Grooming

Male Cosmetics

Male Cosmetics in drug store

Men's cosmetics products, which were separated only by toner, perfumes and lotion, have found a footing in the mainstream market. In addition, cosmetics that can be used together by men and women have become popular.[8]

The size of the Korean men cosmetics market has steadily increased from 733 billion won in 2010 to 1.23 trillion won in 2016 and 1.28 trillion won in 2018. About 75% of Korean men are exposed to cosmetics more than once a week, according to global data from overseas market research institutions. This means that the percentage of men who use cosmetics in Korea is higher than that of other countries.[9]

According to a recent survey by Mintel, a global market research firm, 70% of 1,000 American men use sunscreen and 67% of men use cosmetics for their facial skin.[10]

Skin Care

Even though men are taking care of their appearance increasingly, it is not easy to find information about men's cosmetics. Therefore, there are often men who use relatively easy-to-access female cosmetics. However, men's skin is fundamentally different from women, so using women's makeup can damage their skin.[11] Greasy faces and blandness are considered one of the three biggest problems for men in their 20s to 40s. Thus, they are encouraged to use toner and lotion for oily skin type.[12]

BB Cream

BB Cream, is used to illuminate skin tone.[13] Men's BB cream is characterized by its delicate and natural persistence. This covers skin defects, but does not look like they are wearing any make-up.[14]

Eyebrow

As interest in eyebrow trimming and eyebrow makeup has increased.[15] Eyebrows have become a major subject to care for with job seekers. Sales of eyebrow beauty tools have increased in the last few years.[16]

Lip balm

Lip balm is a beauty item that is easily accessible to men who don't wear makeup. Colored lip balm is very popular because it is not only for moisturizing but also for helping with one's color. Colored lip balm is suitable for men who prefer the natural because it can brighten up one's lips with a lively color which matches their natural color unlike lipstick or tint.[17] [9]

Hair

Barber shops are also one of the newly created spaces to assist with grooming men. Barber shops are a unique hair care space that provides customized styling according to current fashion trends. Barbers are licensed professionals who are trained to cut, shave, and style hair. Male grooming products can be purchased at barbershop including pomades, shave products, powder, beard oil, and shampoo and conditioners. While most men in Korea are looking for women-oriented beauty salons, the U.S. style barber shop is attracting male customers.[18]

Cosmetic Surgery

Men are willing to go to the operating room to make a favorable impression.[19]

Botox

Men with small wrinkles on their faces such as the eyes and mouth are also seeking Botox treatments like women.[20] Middle-aged men get Botox surgery for skin regeneration and wrinkle removal to get re-employed.[21]

Eyebrow tattoo

The eyebrows play a big role in determining the facial impression to the extent that they are called "the roof of the face." Anthropologically, over 100,000 years, the role of eyebrows has become more important as the size of human faces has become smaller and the facial lines have become smoother. Dark eyebrows in a small face make the other person more aware of their facial expressions.[22] Recently, there has been a trend of men tattooing their eyebrows. The process of a permanent eyebrow tattoo involves designing the eyebrows and filling the pigment altogether. [23]

Contouring injection surgery

The male contouring injection surgery removes fat from the face and creates clear facial features.[24]

Waxing/Laser procedure

Men are using laser treatments for permanent removal of face and body hair.[25]

Influence in Society

Change in the Perception of Society

When asked: 'What do you think are the criteria for a nice man?' in a survey conducted by the Korea National Statistical Office, 'look and fashion' accounted for 22.7%, followed by character, economy, and values. When asked, 'What do you think of a well-dressed man?' 37.2% thought 'cool,' and 30.1% said, 'I want to try.'[26] In addition, there is a phenomenon in which men value appearance as a qualification rather than ability. People are undergoing cosmetic surgery to make a favorable impression during interview.[27] It is perceived that a change in facial shape improves impression, facial contouring surgery is becoming popular for people across industries.[28]

Corporate Strategy

There has been a growth in corporate gifting to align with the demand for men grooming products.[29] Men with sharp features are finding opportunities in conventional advertising. This is due to the fact that men and women, regardless of gender, have changed their perception of men looking after their appearance while being judged as competitive in important positions such as employment and marriage.[28]

References

  1. 강, 태우 (2016-03-22). "꾸미는 남성 '그루밍족'" [Decorating male Groomingjok]. JoongAng Ilbo (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-10-29.
  2. Holroyd, Rachel (2003-01-23). ""Body work": physical capital, habitus and the field of school". www.leeds.ac.uk. Retrieved 2019-05-08.
  3. 이, 헌. "피부·코털 관리만 잘해도 '그루밍族'" [Just take good care of your skin and nose, Grooming male]. Chosun.com (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-12.
  4. 김, 수진. "그루밍족이란? 화장 더이상 女전유물 아냐 [스포츠투데이]" [What's Grooming? Cosmetics are no longer a relic of a woman.]. Sports Today (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-12.
  5. "'Flowerboys' and the appeal of 'soft masculinity'". 2018-09-05. Retrieved 2019-04-23.
  6. 김, 은영 (2018-08-27). "샤넬, 한국에서 남성 화장품 첫 출시...세계 시장 주도하는 한국의 '화장남'" [Chanel, the first male cosmetics to be released in Korea...Korea's 'Grooming male' led by the global market]. Chosun.com (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-12.
  7. 이, 선목 (2018-09-19). "중국도 '꽃미남' 트렌드…'화장하는' 남자 늘어난다" [China is also a "pretty boy" trend. The number of "make-up" men is increasing.]. Chosun.com (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  8. 박, 성은. "꾸미는 남성 '그루밍족' 따라 화장품도 진화" [Cosmetics also evolved according to the "grooming" man.]. Asia Today (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  9. 문, 호현. "외모 가꾸는 남성들…'그루밍족'을 잡아라" [Make-up men...Catch the Grooming people.]. MK News (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  10. 남, 상욱. "'남자도 화장시대' 피부관리 기본, 눈썹 문신까지 - 미주 한국일보" [Men's makeup era. Skin care is basic, to eyebrow tattoos.]. www.koreatimes.com. Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  11. "남자 지성피부 관리법...스킨부터 로션, 크림까지 단계별 남성 전용 화장품으로 탄력 관리해야". M오토데일리 (in Korean). 2018-11-08. Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  12. 박, 상우 (2018-11-17). "남자 지성피부 얼굴 개기름과 번들거림이 고민이라면, 남성 전용 세럼, 올인원 화장품 주목" [If face makeup and glossiness of male oily skin are a concern, attention is paid to men's serum and all-in-one cosmetics.]. M Auto Daily (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  13. 이, 규진 (2018-09-05). "男 뷰티시장이 뜬다 패션뷰티업체, 남성 화장품에 도전장" ["Male Beauty Market is Rise" A fashion beauty company that challenges men's cosmetics]. Aju News (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  14. 정, 영일 (2018-05-08). "티 안 나는 남자비비크림…BB크림 대신 NC크림에 주목" [Man's BB Cream which doesn't look like . Attention to NC Cream instead of BB Cream]. Next Daily (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  15. 김, 재련. "[뷰티누리] 더 다양하고 강력해진 맨즈뷰티 시장" [More diverse and powerful Man's Beauty Market]. Beautynury. Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  16. 박, 미주 (2018-02-27). "[박미주의 美치다]남자도 '눈썹 문신'하는 시대…흔남서 '훈남'으로" [The days when men get their eyebrows tattooed...from a common man to a 'hot guy']. The Asia Business Daily (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  17. 임, 수빈 (2018-08-31). "'관리 좀 한다'하는 남자들의 H&B 스토어 고정픽" [H&B store fixed-pics for men who 'take care of well']. NBN TV (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  18. 박, 성수. "남성도 변한다. 이제는 일상이 된 '그루밍' - 고대신문" [Men change, too. 'Grooming', now a daily routine.]. KU News (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  19. "아름다움을 찾는 남성들 '그루밍족'…성형에 아낌없이 투자" [The 'Grooming people' who are looking for beauty...lavish investment in plastic surgery]. Joongang Ilbo (in Korean). 2013-11-28. Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  20. 이, 기영 (2017-10-11). "그루밍족 호기심 자극하는 남자쁘띠성형 종류는? - 세종포스트" [What is the male petit type plastic surgery that stimulates the curiosity of the Grooming people?]. Sejong Post (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  21. Staff, WSJ. "왜 남성들은 성형수술을 하는가" [Why do men have plastic surgery?]. The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  22. 박, 지윤. "반영구 화장 눈썹문신 관심…프라이빗 맞춤디자인 시술 수강 울산 '제이카라'" [Interested in a pair of semi permanent makeup and eyebrow tattoos. Private Custom Design Practice Ulsan 'Jakara']. CCTV News (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  23. 이, 세연. "이미지 좌우하는 눈썹, 맞춤 디자인 '눈썹이식'으로 자연스러운 메이크오버 가능해" [Image-driven eyebrows and custom-designed "eye brow transplant" enable natural makeup over.]. news.kmib.co.kr (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  24. 이, 기영 (2017-09-26). "남자들도 턱보톡스·윤곽주사·코필러 등 간단한 성형 시술 문의 늘어 - 세종포스트" [More men are inquiring about simple cosmetic procedures such as jaw botox, contouring injection, and nose filler etc.]. Sejong Post (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  25. 김, 용섭 (2017-10-10). "[클라스업] 제모하는 남자들" [Men who have a waxing]. Biz Hankook (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-25.
  26. ""당신은 소중하니까요"…가꾸는 남자 '그루밍족'" [Because you're precious 'Grooming Man']. Statistics Korea.
  27. 박, 영일. "예쁜 남자, 그루밍족이 뜬다" [A pretty man, Grooming male is on rise]. M Economy News (in Korean). Retrieved 2018-11-26.
  28. 이, 광주. "방학기간 그루밍족 남자성형 열풍..눈, 코, 윤곽성형까지" [The man plastic surgery of the grooming male during the vacation such as eye, nose and contour]. www.fashionbiz.co.kr. Retrieved 2018-11-26.
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