Krasnaya Moskva

Krasnaya Moskva (Russian: Красная Москва, literally Red Moscow or Beautiful Moscow) was the first Soviet-made perfume.

Its origins are disputed. It may date from before the Russian Revolution of 1917 as Le Bouquet Préféré de l'Impératrice (The Empress’ Favorite Bouquet’), a fragrance created in Henri Brocard's factory in 1913 (and later given a Russian name); or it may have been created in 1925, after Brocard's factory was nationalized and renamed Novaya Zarya in 1922. [1][2] They contain more than 60 components, the official description of the perfume says: "A thin, warm, noble aroma with a tinge of orange blossom".[3] Rudolf Arkadyevich Friedman in his book "Perfumery", edition of 1955, writes: "Krasnaya Moskva is associated with elegant warmth, playful and flirtatious languor, melodious, plastic melodiousness",[4] "the perfume "Krasnaya Moskva", mainly representing the violet complex, are quite sentimental by smell, but due to the change of timbre and the introduction of a number of harmonizing substances, they received a special beauty and richness of smell",[5] "the perfume "Krasnaya Moskva", consisting of a mixture of the bases of iris, violet, carnation for perfection (rounding) of all these primary materials and for enhancing their delicate smell, requires a significant proportion of jasmine essence".[6] Renata Litvinova describes them as "sugary, concentrated... giving rise to a feeling of normal healthy nostalgia".[7] In 1958, they were awarded a prize at the World Exhibition in Brussels.

Polina Zhemchuzhina served as the head of the factory from 1930 to 1932.[1]

With limited competition, Krasnaya Moskva became very popular and was widespread in the Soviet Union and, after the Second World War, throughout the Eastern Bloc. Its ubiquitousness during socialism led many to shun it now that a greater variety of choices are available. The fragrance survived the fall of the Soviet Union and is still being produced in today in the Danilovsky District, Moscow.[1]

The fragrance is that of a floral chypre.[1]

References
  1. Krasnaya Moskva or Red Moscow by Novaya Zarya, Fragrantica Perfume Encyclopedia
  2. "Chanel No. 5 und der Duft der Sowjets".
  3. Химия и жизнь, 1973, № 4. С. 78, статья «Летучий пленник».
  4. Фридман Р. А. Парфюмерия, Пищепромиздат, 1955, с. 63—71.
  5. Фридман Р. А. Парфюмерия, Пищепромиздат, 1955, с. 95—97.
  6. Фридман Р. А. Парфюмерия, Пищепромиздат, 1955, с. 101—103.
  7. "Низкопоклонство перед запахом". Ъ-Деньги. Archived from the original on 2013-04-22. Retrieved 2013-04-18.
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