Artimes Farshad Yeganeh

Artimes Farshad Yeganeh (Persian: آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه, born 27 May 1981 in Tehran, Iran) is an Iranian rock climber who has been climbing for 26 years of experiences as a professional climber, members of Iran sport climbing National Team for many years, as route setter in many national, continental and world cups and championships, and head coach of Iran Sport Climbing National Team for 6 years.[1][2][3][4] He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.

Artimes FarshadYeganeh
Personal information
NationalityIranian
Born (1981-05-27) May 27, 1981
Tehran, Iran
EducationBachelor of Physical Education
OccupationPro climber, climbing coach and route setter
Height177 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight65 kg (143 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Updated on 11 Dec 2014.

Biography

Artimes was elected as one of the five members among sport climbing experts over Tehran province to make Tehran climbing league’s statute. [5][6][7] Then, he participated as a first Iranian Alpine Club’s representative in bouldering world cup of 2009 in France.[8][9] As he truly is well known for lead climbing, he also solo climbed two routes.[10] Currently, Artimes and Amin Abbasi are the only Iranian Continental route setters.[11] He also became IFSC JUNIOR Route setter in 2019.

Positions

Here are some positions he has held:

  • 2007  Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbingEducational Consultant
  • 2008  Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbingEducational Consultant
  • 2009  Tehran League founding member
  • 2009  Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbingEducational Consultant
  • 2010  Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbingEducational Consultant
  • 2011  Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbingEducational Consultant
  • 2013  Tehran Rebolting Committee
  • 2014  Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing FederationSport Climbing CommitteeRoute Setting Director
  • 2014  Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing FederationSport Climbing CommitteeRoute Setting Director
  • 2015  Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing FederationSport Climbing CommitteeRoute Setting Director
  • 2015  Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing FederationNational Team CommitteeHead Coach of Youth Team
  • 2016  Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing FederationNational Team CommitteeHead Coach of Youth Team
  • 2016  Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing FederationSport Climbing CommitteeRoute Setting Director
  • 2017  Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing FederationSport Climbing CommitteeRoute Setting Director
  • 2017  Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing FederationNational Team CommitteeHead Coach of Youth Team
  • 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2018  Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing FederationHead Coach of Combined Team
  • 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
  • 2019  Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing FederationHead Coach of Combined Team
  • 2020 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director

Coaching

Coaching certificates

  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation  Sport Climbing Coach Grade 1
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation  Sport Climbing Coach Grade 2
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation  Sport Climbing Coach Grade 3
  • Rock Climbing Federation of Germany  Sport Climbing Coach Level 1, Level 2 and Level C1

Coaching experience

Gym Time
Emam Ali University 2003-2006
Army 2005-2006
Davoudi 2005-2008
Tarbiat Modarres University Climbing Gym 2005-current
ArmenianClimbing Gym Sipan 2012-current
Payam Climbing Gym 2015-current
Raspina Welness Climbing Gym 2016-2018
MSFI Sport Climbing National Team Head Coach 2014-current

Route setting

Route Setting certificates

  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation  Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 1
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation  Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 2
  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation  National Sport Climbing Route Setter
  • ACC of IFSC  Continental Sport Climbing Route Setter
  • IFSC Junior   International Sport Climbing Route Setter

[11]

Route setting experiences

  • Chief Route Setter [5]
  • 2006  Chief Route SetterUniversity Student National Championship
  • 2007  Chief Route SetterJunior and Youth National Championship
  • 2007  Chief Route SetterUniversity Student National Championship
  • 2009  Chief Route SetterNational Championship
  • 2011  Route SetterIFSC Master Cup international Competition
  • 2013  Route SetterAsian Championships Tehran, Iran
  • 2015  Route Setter  Asian Youth Championship Malaysia
  • 2016  Route Setter  Asian Youth Championship Iran
  • 2016  Route Setter  IFSC World Cup Munich, Germany
  • 2017  Route Setter  Asian Championship Tehran, Iran
  • 2017  Route Setter  IFSC Youth World Championship Innsbruck, Austria
  • 2017  Route Setter  Asian Cup Wanxianchan, China
  • 2018  Route Setter  IFSC World university Championships Slovakia
  • 2018  Route Setter  Asian Games Palembang, Indonesia
  • 2018  Chief Route Setter  Asian Championship Totori, Japan
  • 2019  Route Setter  IFSC World Cup bouldering Munich, Germany
  • 2019  Route Setter  IFSC China open Guanzhuo, China
  • 2019  Route Setter  Asian Youth Championship Combined Chongqing, China
  • 2019  Chief Route Setter  Asian Youth Championship Bengaloru, India

[11]

Judging

Judging certificates

  • IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation  Sport Climbing National Judge

Iran National Team memberships

  • Junior National Team
    • 1999
  • National Team
    • 2003
    • 2004  China, Asian Championship
    • 2005  Kerman (IRI), UIAA Asian Championship
    • 2006  Kaoshiung (TPE), UIAA Asian Championships
    • 2007  Qinghai (CHN), IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S)
    • 2009  France, Bouldering Worldcup

[1][2][3][4][8][9][12][13][14][15][16][17][18][19]

Ranks and medals

IFSC Climbing Worldcup

2009 2007
Bouldering 29
Lead 26

[1][2][3][4][8][9][14][17][20][21][22]

UIAA Asian Championships

2005 2006
Lead 19 10

[1][2][3][12][13][15][16][23]

Fajr championships

1998 2002 2006
Lead 3 3 2

[24]

National championships

2002 2006
Lead 3 1

Tehran Province championships

2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2012 2013 2014
Lead 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2
Lead 2

[5]

Tehran Province League

2010 2011
Lead 1 1

[25]

Groups Cup

2000
Lead 2

Solo

  • Mashalah, 7c, 20 meters, Overhanging & Roof, Kermanshah, Iran, 2006, first ascent
  • Gordefa, 7a+, 25 meters, Polokhab, Iran, 2006, first ascent

Climbing

Here are some of his Tops & First Ascent climbs:

Year Name Grade
2001 Speed(FA) 7c
2002 Ashiane(FA) 8a+
2003 Iran(FA) 7c+
2004 Iran Swiss 8a+
2005 Khashol(FA) 7c
2006 Khoke chamosh(FA) 7c+
2007 Ashianedoe(FA) 8b
2009 Solo(FA) 8b
2010 Tehran Guy(FA) 8a
2011 Father & Son(FA) 7c+
2018 Marmolak 8b
2018 Bargrizan 8b+
2018 Push your must(FA) 7c+/8a
2018 Pishadul(FA) 7c+
2019 Vampire(FA) 8b+
2019 Colony(FA) 8b+
2020 Sourkhpoost(Indian) 8a
2020 Gladiator 8c

Roc Trips

  • Petzl 2008
  • Petzl 2009
  • Petzl 2014

[26]

Filmography

Route

Here are some of the routes he bolted:

Year Name Grade
2006 Khashol 7c
2006 Pichol project
2007 Khoke chamosh 7c+
2009 O+ 7c
2008 Solo 8b
2008 Toxic project
2009 Emperor project ?
2010 Tehran guys 8a
2011 Gladiator Project 8c
2011 Father and Son 8a+
2013 Vampire 8b+
2014 Ati 7b+
2018 Colony 8b+
2018 Pishadul 7c+
2019 Surkhpoost (Indian) 8a
2020 Gladiator 8c

References

  1. "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  2. "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 9 December 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  3. "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  4. "آخرین تایج مسابقات جهانی تا این لحظه". Binalood. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  5. "Saeid Jaryani won the 5th round of Tehran's climbing league". Iran Mountain Zone. 15 December 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  6. "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Iran Mountain Zone. 23 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  7. "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Alpine Cub of Iran. 21 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  8. "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Iran Mountain Zone. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  9. "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Alpine Climb of Iran. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  10. "Mashalah {7C}". Mandis Tafreshian. 23 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  11. "Officials Resources". IFSC-Climbing.org. 7 August 2014. Retrieved 1 November 2014.
  12. "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". Digital Rock. 23 September 2005. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  13. "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". Digital Rock. 29 October 2006. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  14. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  15. "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". IFSC Climbing. 23 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  16. "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  17. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  18. "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006 Startlists". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  19. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  20. "Ergebnis: Lead-Weltcup in Qinghai (CHN) - Herren". Ergebnis. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  21. "Re: 20070811青海世界盃最新成績公告". mountaineering.org.tw. 15 August 2007. Archived from the original on 14 October 2015. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  22. "IFSC Lead World Cup – Qinghai(CHN) 2007" (PDF). ffme. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  23. "UIAA Asian Championship Iran 2005". IFSC and DR. 24 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  24. "10th Fajr Climbing Championship in men's category came to its end". Iran Mountain Zone. 24 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  25. "TMU club fixed in its place at the top of Tehran Climbing League". Iran Mountain Zone. 9 July 2011. Archived from the original on 2 October 2012. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
  26. "Roctrip im Zillertal: Zwischen Kuhglocken und Ultimate Route". klettern. 29 August 2008. Archived from the original on 19 April 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
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