Édouard Nignon

Édouard Nignon (9 November 1865, Nantes - 30 October 1934, Bréal-sous-Montfort) was a French chef and writer of cookbooks.[1]

Édouard Nignon
Born(1865-11-09)9 November 1865
Died(1934-10-30)30 October 1934 (aged 69)

Life

One of eight children of a day laborer and a seamstress, Nignon became an apprentice at Cambronne Restaurant at the age of 9. A year later, he joined Monier Restaurant, where he learned to read and write. After more work in Angers and Cholet, he arrived to Paris, where he assisted famous chefs and eventually became a chef himself.[2]

He lived in Austria and Russia, where he served the highest dignitaries, including the emperors Nicholas II of Russia and Franz Joseph I of Austria. He worked as the chef of Claridge's in London from 1894 to 1901. In 1908, he bought Larue Restaurant in Paris. He retired in 1928.

When his restaurant was going through a crisis in World War I, he started writing cookbooks. His most famous cookbook, Eulogies of French Cuisine, was published in 1933. It promoted deglazing with water, clear broths, and parsimonious seasoning.[3]

Nignon is credited with inventing the beuchelle tourangelle, a veal kidney and rice stew inspired by the Austrian beuschel stew.[2] Interested in unusual taste combinations, he created oysters with camembert[4] and homard a la dinardaise, a lobster salad with the "insane trio" of truffles, mustard and pickles.[5]

Legacy

Ignored by the general public, Nignon has been recognized by chefs as one of the fathers of modern cuisine.[6] His legacy has been revived after a long period of being eclipsed by his more famous contemporary, Auguste Escoffier.[3][7]

Michel Guérard, one of the founders of nouvelle cuisine, described Nignon as a visionary chef who had a huge influence on French cooks such as himself and Joël Robuchon.[8] A recent article on contemporary cookbooks called Nignon "the Flaubert of the ovens," who created "gourmet epics".[9] His Eulogies were called a "seminal book" of "bourgeois cuisine."[10]

An original copy of Nignon's Heptameron was sold for 16 thousand euros in the 2010s.[11]

Chef Yvon Garnier founded Culinary Institute Edouard Nignon in Nantes.[6]

Works

  • 1919 : L'Heptaméron des gourmets ou les Délices de la cuisine française (The Seven Days of Gourmets or the Delights of the French Cuisine)
  • 1926 : Les Plaisirs de la table, où sous une forme nouvelle, l'auteur a dévoilé maints délicieux secrets et recettes de bonne cuisine, transcrits les précieux avis de gourmets fameux et de fins gastronomes, conseillers aimables et sûrs en l'art de bien manger (The pleasures of the table, where the author uses a new form to reveal many delicious secrets and recipes of fine cuisine, transcribing precious advice of famous gourmets and fine gastronomes, kind and confident counsellors of the art of fine dining)
  • 1933 : Éloges de la cuisine française (Eulogies of French cuisine), with a preface by Sacha Guitry.

References

  1. Bernard Thomasson (30 April 2017). "L'Histoire à la carte. Édouard Nignon : le littéraire des fourneaux". France Info. Missing or empty |url= (help)
  2. Nicolas Raduget. "La Beuchelle tourangelle". C du Centre.
  3. François-Régis Gaudry (7 November 2008). "Paris: L'Assiette". L'Express.
  4. Christian Etchebest (2015). In La cantine du troquet. Solar.
  5. Elisabeth Couturier (25 July 2014). "La nourriture de l'art". Paris Match.
  6. "Ce chef nantais qui fait saliver le cinéma". Presse Ocean. 30 September 2012.
  7. François Simon (16 May 2012). "La galaxie Guérard, la minceur et son diktat exquis". Le Figaro.
  8. Olivia Parker (9 April 2014). "Five-minute chef: health-food guru Michel Guérard". The Telegraph.
  9. Laura-Mai Gaveriaux (8 December 2017). "Livres de cuisine, les très bonnes feuilles". Les Echos.
  10. Camille Labro (10 November 2015). "Le Retour de la cuisine bourgeoise". Le Monde.
  11. Beba Marsano (26 June 2014). "Da Catone a Marinetti, arrivano online le ricette degli antichi libri di cucina". Corriere della Sera.
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