Tereza Kuldová

Tereza Kuldová
Born 1985 (age 32–33)
Prague, Czechoslovakia
Residence Oslo, Norway
Citizenship Czech
Known for Ethnography of contemporary Indian fashion industry
Scientific career
Fields Social Anthropology, Anthropology of Business, Critical Legal Anthropology, Anthropology of Crime and Subcultures, South Asian Studies, Fashion Theory, Intellectual Property Rights, Critical Luxury Studies, Ultra-realist Criminology
Institutions University of Oslo (2008 - now)
Thesis  (2013, PhD)
Website tereza-kuldova.com

Tereza Kuldová (born 1985) is a social anthropologist and fashion curator, specializing on contemporary India and biker subculture in Europe [1] Tereza Kuldová is a Researcher based at the University of Oslo,[2] where she also earned her PhD in social anthropology in 2013 with the thesis Designing Elites: Fashion and Prestige in Urban North India.[3] She was a student of Thomas Hylland Eriksen and is an emerging voice in Scandinavian anthropology. From 2016-2018, she is a Visiting Senior Researcher at the Department of Cultural and Social Anthropology at the University of Vienna.[4]

In 2016, her monograph Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique[5] was published by Bloomsbury Publishing.[6] Her book is the first ethnographic study of the Indian luxury fashion industry and is unique in its ethnographic focus on the Indian elites and the interactions between fashion designers and craftspeople. The book presents a class analysis focusing on understanding how social and economic inequality is reproduced through everyday encounters and practices within the complex networks and interdependencies of the Indian fashion industry. Kuldová is also the editor of a volume Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism published in 2013 (Oslo: Akademika Publishing).[7] The volume accompanied an ethnographic exhibition, based on Kuldová's research in India, which she both curated and designed.[8] The exhibition was entitled 'Fashion India' and was inaugurated on 13 September 2013 at the Historical Museum in Oslo and was on show for a whole year. The opening event was covered widely by television and media in Norway and was attended by more than 700 visitors on the first day.[9] Kuldová has argued that researching fashion means primarily researching social and economic inequalities, and therefore it should no longer be a marginal topic of study.[10] In her academic article on exhibiting fashion in museums she argued for a rethinking of the current mainstream practices of displaying fashion. She argued that her own exhibition 'Fashion India' was conceptualized as a critique of current museum practices. In her article she outlines some themes of this exhibition that address uncritical approaches, which use the ‘aesthetic’ to mask hierarchies of power. These include the problems of exhibiting fashion as art, corporate and private sponsorships, fashion designers as co-curators, spectacular exhibition design (form) over content, and persistent policies of infantilization and patronage of the audiences.[11]

In 2015 she received a Peder Sather Grant from the University of California, Berkeley for a new exploratory research project entitled "Gangs, Brands and Intellectual Property Rights: A Comparative Study of the Transnational Business Organization of Outlaw Bikers and Luxury Brands through the Lens of their Legal Battles against Piracy."[12] In December 2015, she was awarded a major research grant by the Norwegian Research Council for a 3-year research project which built on the aforementioned project in collaboration with UC Berkeley,[13] entitled "Gangs, Brands and Intellectual Property Rights: Interdisciplinary Comparative Study of Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs and Luxury Brands."[14] She authored the article 'Hells Angels™ Motorcycle Corporation in the Fashion Business: Interrogating the Fetishism of the Trademark Law' which appeared in the Journal of Design History in 2016.[15] She is also the co-editor of the volume Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs and Street Gangs: Scheming Legality, Resisting Criminalization,[16] co-edited with Martín Sánchez-Jankowski, a UC Berkeley sociologist. She has also published extensively on the questions of philanthropy and the 'trouble with benevolence.'[17][18]

Kuldová was interviewed in November 2016 by The C/O Vienna Magazine, where she was labelled as 'an extremely charismatic enrichment of the Vienna city life'.[19]

In 2017, Kuldová established the Extreme Anthropology Research Network[20] and the Journal of Extreme Anthropology, an open-access, peer-reviewed journal based at the University of Oslo.[21]

Selected bibliography

  • 2018 Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs and Street Gangs: Scheming Legality, Resisting Criminalization (co-edited with Martín Sánchez-Jankowski), New York: Palgrave Macmillan [22]
  • 2017 Urban Utopias: Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal South Asia (co-edited with Mathew A. Varghese), New York: Palgrave Macmillan [23]
  • 2016 Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique (London: Bloomsbury)[24]
  • 2016 Hells Angels™ Motorcycle Corporation in the Fashion Business: Interrogating the Fetishism of the Trademark Law, Journal of Design History, OnlineFirst [25]
  • 2013 Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism (Oslo: Akademika Publishing)
  • 2014 Designing an Illusion of India's Future Superpowerdom, The Unfamiliar: An Anthropological Journal, 4(1)[26]
  • 2012 Fashionable erotic masquerades: Of brides, gods and vamps in India, Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 3(1-2)[27]
  • 2014 Designing hypermuscular neo-aristocracy: Of kings, gangsters and muscles in Indian cinema, fashion and politics, Film, Fashion & Consumption, 3(2)[28]

See also[29] and all publications and public lectures in the database Cristin[30]

References

  1. ↑ "Tereza Kuldova - Personal Website". Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  2. ↑ "Tereza Kuldova - Postdoctoral Fellow". hf.uio.no. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  3. ↑ "PhD Defense Kuldova 2013". University of Oslo. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  4. ↑ "GastwissenschaftlerInnen - Aktuelles Studienjahr". ksa.univie.ac.at. Retrieved 10 January 2017.
  5. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza (24 March 2016). Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique (Materializing Culture Series ed.). London: Bloomsbury. p. 224. ISBN 9781474220934. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  6. ↑ "Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique by Tereza Kuldova". Bloomsbury. Bloomsbury Academic. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  7. ↑ "Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism". Amazon.co.uk. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  8. ↑ "Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism". khm.uio.no (Museum of Cultural History, Oslo, Norway). Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  9. ↑ "Appearances in Media". tereza-kuldova.com. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  10. ↑ "Interview with Tereza Kuldova". antropologi.info. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  11. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza (1 December 2014). "Fashion exhibition as a critique of contemporary museum exhibitions: The case of 'Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism'". Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty. 5 (2): 313–336. doi:10.1386/csfb.5.2.313_1.
  12. ↑ "Peder Sather Grant - Tereza Kuldova". www.uio.no. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  13. ↑ "FRIPRO - HUMSAM Research funding". www.forskningsradet.no. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  14. ↑ "Millioner i støtte sikrer nye forskningsprosjekter i 2016 (in Norwegian)". www.hf.uio.no. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  15. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza. "Hells Angels Motorcycle Corporation in the Fashion Business". Journal of Design History. Retrieved 12 November 2016.
  16. ↑ OUTLAW MOTORCYCLE CLUBS AND STREET GANGS : scheming legality, resisting. [S.l.]: SPRINGER INTERNATIONAL PU. 2018. ISBN 9783319761190. OCLC 1020607940.
  17. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza (2017-11-03). "When elites and outlaws do philanthropy: on the limits of private vices for public benefit". Trends in Organized Crime: 1–15. doi:10.1007/s12117-017-9323-6. ISSN 1084-4791.
  18. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza (2017). "Forcing 'Good' and the Legitimization of Informal Power: Philanthrocapitalism and Artistic Nationalism among the Indian Business Elites". Internationales Asienforum. 48: 55–75.
  19. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza. "The Social Anthropologist". The C/O Vienna Magazine.
  20. ↑ "Extreme Anthropology Research Network".
  21. ↑ "Journal of Extreme Anthropology".
  22. ↑ OUTLAW MOTORCYCLE CLUBS AND STREET GANGS : scheming legality, resisting. [S.l.]: SPRINGER INTERNATIONAL PU. 2018. ISBN 9783319761190. OCLC 1020607940.
  23. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza. Urban Utopias: Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal South Asia. New York: Palgrave Macmillan. ISBN 978-3-319-47622-3.
  24. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza. Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique. London: Bloomsbury. ISBN 9781474220941.
  25. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza (5 October 2016). "Hells Angels™ Motorcycle Corporation in the Fashion Business: Interrogating the Fetishism of the Trademark Law". Journal of Design History.
  26. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza. "Designing an Illusion of India's Future Superpowerdom". The Unfamiliar: An Anthropological Journal. 4 (1). doi:10.2218/unfamiliar.v4i1.1097. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  27. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza (1 December 2012). "Fashionable erotic masquerades: Of brides, gods and vamps in India". Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty. 3 (1): 69–86. doi:10.1386/csfb.3.1-2.69_1.
  28. ↑ Kuldova, Tereza (1 June 2014). "Designing hypermuscular neo-aristocracy: Of kings, gangsters and muscles in Indian cinema, fashion and politics". Film, Fashion & Consumption. 3 (2): 149–156. doi:10.1386/ffc.3.2.149_1.
  29. ↑ "Profile at Academia.edu". uio.academia.edu. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
  30. ↑ "Cristin - Database of scientific publications - author - Tereza Kuldova - All publications and lectures". www.cristin.no. Retrieved 16 February 2016.
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